Recommend a Suppressor

[Ahuntin1]

Thunderbeast is my brand. The accuracy was my biggest factor and they don't disappoint. I've got 2 Ultra 7s and they are tack drivers. They still have point of impact shift but if the gun is sighted in for one of them, I have no issues shifting them around. I do direct thread and don't like having to tune a CB break on every gun.

 

[infoman jr.]

If I were in your shoes, I'd get a Thunderbeast.

 

[pk117ac23]

omega 36M is modular works great for hunting and plinking. I've used it from .22LR, .223 Rem, .300blackout. 9mm, & .308 Win. I only had $ for one go around and have loved SilencerCo's customer service and products.

 

[Grandslam11]

I asked this in another thread, but I'll ask here too. How long did it take to get your NFA Trust approved? I have the trust all set up and sent it ATF back in March of '23, but have heard nothing back yet!

It took me right at 10 months. Applied in Feb, got it in December.

 

[Grandslam11]

I've had good luck with the silencer co omega 300. If you are new to NFA items check out silencer shops website. They have kiosks that make it as simple as possible.

I have this one as well and am pleased. Silencer Co was a breeze to deal with. I put it in a trust as well.

 

[mike243]

Anybody have a idea what it costs to have a barrel threaded? thought about having a 22 or 2 setup.

 

[Uncle J]

It took me right at 10 months. Applied in Feb, got it in December.

I am new to suppressors and been looking at trusts as a starting point. Did either of you use the one from silencer central or go to a local lawyer? Any recommendations or advice is appreciated!

 

[Jcalder]

Anybody have an idea what it costs to have a barrel threaded? thought about having a 22 or 2 setup.

$150ish

 

[Andy S.]

If I were in your shoes, I'd get a Thunderbeast.

Cannot beat a TB, as that was what I had my heart set on when I initially entered the suppressor world. After some research and meeting with a few folks, I went with Texas Silencer Company for my 30 caliber and rimfire cans and have been very satisfied. Basically the guy selling the cans (sold TB and TS cans) asked me a series of questions, with long range accuracy being one of the criteria (not something I needed), and I ended up going different route and saving a little money. My .30 caliber is plenty accurate out to 200 yards, which exceeds 99% of my shot opportunities. I did not want QD as I do not burn through ammo, thus went with DT. Good luck with your decision, as they can be a lot of fun, especially if you shoot a lot or hunt in urban setting.

 

[Andy S.]

$150ish

Same in my neck of the woods. Coworker just had his threaded for $125. Guy had it done in a few hours (drop off to pick up), same day turn around. Machinist/gunsmith is in Moscow, TN.

 

[Grandslam11]

I am new to suppressors and been looking at trusts as a starting point. Did either of you use the one from silencer central or go to a local lawyer? Any recommendations or advice is appreciated!

I did the single shot unlimited trust through silencerco. I also got the Silencerco Sparrow for my .22. It is a lot of fun.

 

[TNRifleman]

Same in my neck of the woods. Coworker just had his threaded for $125. Guy had it done in a few hours (drop off to pick up), same day turn around. Machinist/gunsmith is in Moscow, TN.

His name wasn't Mason was it?

 

[Joe2Kool]

Anybody have a idea what it costs to have a barrel threaded? thought about having a 22 or 2 setup.

Silencer Central did mine. I think it was around $100 per barrel. I used them instead of a local gunsmith because I didn't want any conflicts or issues with the threading and can not matching.

 

[Andy S.]

His name wasn't Mason was it?

No, different guy.

 

[tug]

Anybody have a idea what it costs to have a barrel threaded? thought about having a 22 or 2 setup.

Class 3 Machining

We are the leader in barrel threading with over 7000 barrels complete. We thread for over 60 companies & provide cnc parts for several suppressor manufacturers.

class3machining.com

I would not let anyone else thread a barrel.

There is no possible way I would let someone experiment or gain knowledge or get experience on my barrel. Threading a barrel for a suppressor is not the same as threading a rod.

 

[Joe2Kool]

Something to consider is remaining wall thickness and thread shoulder. My Remington 700's (7mag and 300 WM) were in no man's land. I couldn't get enough shoulder AND wall thickness. From memory, Barrel OD was around .665. I compromised on 9/16 thread instead of the 5/8. I think the Thunderbeast website has a good chart.

 

[memfuzz]

CGS Hyperion. Simply amazing.

 

[infoman jr.]

Class 3 Machining

We are the leader in barrel threading with over 7000 barrels complete. We thread for over 60 companies & provide cnc parts for several suppressor manufacturers.

class3machining.com

I would not let anyone else thread a barrel.

There is no possible way I would let someone experiment or gain knowledge or get experience on my barrel. Threading a barrel for a suppressor is not the same as threading a rod.

While I can understand not letting someone use my barrel as a guinea pig to learn barrel threading, it's really not a difficult process. Any competent machinist should be able to do it.

 

[infoman jr.]

Something to consider is remaining wall thickness and thread shoulder. My Remington 700's (7mag and 300 WM) were in no man's land. I couldn't get enough shoulder AND wall thickness. From memory, Barrel OD was around .665. I compromised on 9/16 thread instead of the 5/8. I think the Thunderbeast website has a good chart.

 

[tug]

While I can understand not letting someone use my barrel as a guinea pig to learn barrel threading, it's really not a difficult process. Any competent machinist should be able to do it.

I bought my first suppressor 35 years ago. Spent a lot of time on the range as a student, trainer, RSO.

I have seen several cans blown into orbit and end cap strikes because the threads were cut by "competent machinists."

And I can't count the number of times I have seen perfect .5x28 centerfire rifle threads cut on a rimfire rifle. The machinist cut the threads just like the shooter asked. Except the shooter did not understand the difference between the two.

What about the rimfire threads for the cans that use an o-ring? How much of a gap do you need for the o-ring, and where does it sit?

And if "competent machinists" cut shoulder reliefs correctly, then why do so many people have to use beveled spacers, or should?

If all the machinists were competent, then why do so many suppressor companies make user replaceable threaded end caps?

There are very good reasons that there are shops that only cut barrel threads.