Tss loading help?

[cm1021]

I'm starting to try to load up some .410s as the price for tss has gone through the roof. The guy I bought my shot from gave me some load data, but all using powder I don't have.

What I'm looking for is if anyone has used h110 in loads. I'm running #9.5 shot, 3" fiochi, tps wads. Any help would be much appreciated. If you want to PM me instead of posting, I understand that was well. Seems some of these recipes are like a sacred spell or something! Hahaha.

 

[longranger]

Where did you find hulls?

 

[Roost 1]

I'm starting to try to load up some .410s as the price for tss has gone through the roof. The guy I bought my shot from gave me some load data, but all using powder I don't have.

What I'm looking for is if anyone has used h110 in loads. I'm running #9.5 shot, 3" fiochi, tps wads. Any help would be much appreciated. If you want to PM me instead of posting, I understand that was well. Seems some of these recipes are like a sacred spell or something! Hahaha.

Some use h110, 296, 300MP, and Lil Gun.
if you can't find the recommended powder, ask your guy for a recipe using powder you have on hand or that's available to you.
I DO NOT recommend substituting powders.

 

[mike52]

If you will go to the ALDEER site and chose Al Turkey Talk there is a TSS loading tutorial that is great

 

[Hevishot 13]

The three .410 loads I have data on came from Hal Abbott. None of those use H110. As a matter of fact, I think they all use 300mp if I recall.

 

[cm1021]

The three .410 loads I have data on came from Hal Abbott. None of those use H110. As a matter of fact, I think they all use 300mp if I recall.

That's where I got mine from. He finally sent me one load using it so I'll see what I can do with it.

 

[Southern Sportsman]

I have a load from Hal using H110. To the extent I can do so without disclosing someone else's load data, I'm happy to help.

One thing to note — H110 is a very fine powder, and the .410 wads usually don't fit as snugly in the hull as others gauges. If nothing is done to prevent it, over a season of carrying shells around, loading and unloading, etc, the powder will migrate around the base of the wad. You'll be able to see it between the wad and hull wall if you hold the shell in front of a flash light. This can cause a drop in pressure resulting in a "blooper." I speak from experience.

The fix will probably not be referenced in Hal's load data. I got it from another seasoned loader who used the H110 .410 load for years, and I have also done it for several seasons. But use or ignore at your own discretion.

I take a paper overshot card (.030 thickness) and using a razor blade, I split them in half. You'll end up with 2 paper discs roughly 1/2 the thickness of an overshot card. I weigh and pour my powder, then seat the paper disc firmly over the powder, then add my wad, shot, etc. I also back my powder charge down by half a grain. The paper disc works almost like a gas seal and prevents the powder from migrating around the wad.

 

[megalomaniac]

I have a load from Hal using H110. To the extent I can do so without disclosing someone else's load data, I'm happy to help.

One thing to note — H110 is a very fine powder, and the .410 wads usually don't fit as snugly in the hull as others gauges. If nothing is do done to prevent it, over a season of carrying shells around, loading and unloading, etc, the powder will migrate around the base of the wad. You'll be able to see it between the wad and hull wall if you hold the shell in front of a flash light. This can cause a drop in pressure resulting in a "blooper." I speak from experience.

The fix will probably not be referenced in Hal's load data. I got it from another seasoned loader who used the H110 .410 load for years, and I have also done it for several seasons. But use or ignore at your own discretion.

I take a paper overshot card (.030 thickness) and using a razor blade, I split them in half. You'll end up with 2 paper discs roughly 1/2 the thickness of an overshot card. I weigh and pour my powder, then seat the paper disc firmly over the powder, then add my wad, shot, etc. I also back my powder charge down by half a grain. The paper disc works almost like a gas seal and prevents the powder from migrating around the wad.

Good to see you back SS!

Where you been?

 

[Southern Sportsman]

Good to see you back SS!

Where you been?

Career changes, moving to a new house, and three young kids have kept me plenty busy. But now turkey season is coming

 

[cm1021]

I have a load from Hal using H110. To the extent I can do so without disclosing someone else's load data, I'm happy to help.

One thing to note — H110 is a very fine powder, and the .410 wads usually don't fit as snugly in the hull as others gauges. If nothing is done to prevent it, over a season of carrying shells around, loading and unloading, etc, the powder will migrate around the base of the wad. You'll be able to see it between the wad and hull wall if you hold the shell in front of a flash light. This can cause a drop in pressure resulting in a "blooper." I speak from experience.

The fix will probably not be referenced in Hal's load data. I got it from another seasoned loader who used the H110 .410 load for years, and I have also done it for several seasons. But use or ignore at your own discretion.

I take a paper overshot card (.030 thickness) and using a razor blade, I split them in half. You'll end up with 2 paper discs roughly 1/2 the thickness of an overshot card. I weigh and pour my powder, then seat the paper disc firmly over the powder, then add my wad, shot, etc. I also back my powder charge down by half a grain. The paper disc works almost like a gas seal and prevents the powder from migrating around the wad.

Thanks a ton!! I got back in touch with Hal and he sent me a load using h110. Did the one he sent you say to drop down a grain from the 296 charge?

Thanks for the tip on that overshot card! I have been reading about issues with the h110 sliding past the wad. What size shot are you running? I can send you a PM if thats okay or easier if you aren't wanting to disclose certain info on here.

 

[Southern Sportsman]

Thanks a ton!! I got back in touch with Hal and he sent me a load using h110. Did the one he sent you say to drop down a grain from the 296 charge?

Thanks for the tip on that overshot card! I have been reading about issues with the h110 sliding past the wad. What size shot are you running? I can send you a PM if thats okay or easier if you aren't wanting to disclose certain info on here.

I'm more than happy share anything I know except load data that was given to me in confidence.

Yes, when I first got that load Hal suggested backing the powder down a grain. I don't think that because of a difference between W296 and H110 — those are the exact same powder. Rather, when he had the original recipe tested it came back very close to max pressure range. Backing it down will keep it within safe ranges.

I've made that load with 9s, 9.5s, and 10s. I prefer 9.5s.

 

[cm1021]

I'm more than happy share anything I know except load data that I was given to me in confidence.

Yes, when I first got that load Hal suggested backing the powder down a grain. I don't think that because of a difference between W296 and H110 — those are the exact same powder. Rather, when he had the original recipe tested it came back very close to max pressure range. Backing it down will keep it within safe ranges.

I've made that load with 9s, 9.5s, and 10s. I prefer 9.5s.

I understand completely! It seems seems that recipes are closely guarded secrets. I knew that they were the same powder, it just has a note that for h110 drop it down a grain. I'm gonna be using 9.5s. Hopefully it performs well for me.

 

[Southern Sportsman]

Just FYI — if you use 9s, the shot will fill the wad completely so that it's flush at the top. If you use 9.5s or 10s, there will be a little empty space between the shot column and the tips of the wad petals. If you leave it like that you will never get good crimps.

You can either trim the was petals to match the shot column height, or you can add a filler at the TOP of the shot column. I usually crumble up a foam packing peanut to fill out the wad or a 1/8" .410 felt.

Also, make sure you separate the wad petals before loading. They are usually still connected with a little piece of plastic. If they are connected too securely, two of the petals may not separate, causing erratic patterns.