Food Plots Stand of Cereal Rye, with some Winter Wheat.

JCDEERMAN

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Good deal! I saw quite a few in the fields we planted over the weekend. One was a 3.5 yo buck that just shifted onto us over the last week. He sure found the food - he ate for over 45 minutes. It's unfortunate that he is far below average rack-wise than our typical bucks that age.
 

megalomaniac

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Man, id love to have a 25% fawn recruitment.... been almost 10 years since we even had 50%. Coyotes are wiping out my deer.

We've been hammering them, and we are up to 20% this year from what ive observed. Not good, but better than the 10-15% we've been running past 5 years.

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DeerCamp

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megalomaniac":2u9a4p17 said:
Man, id love to have a 25% fawn recruitment.... been almost 10 years since we even had 50%. Coyotes are wiping out my deer.

We've been hammering them, and we are up to 20% this year from what ive observed. Not good, but better than the 10-15% we've been running past 5 years.

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Wow. The most recent video I got had 3 coyotes traveling together mid day, looking quite healthy. I'm going to be on a trapping mission after the season
 

JCDEERMAN

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I have seen quite a few coyotes and bobcats on camera at all hours of the day. Not very many fawns for the number of does I've seen
 

Popcorn

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Up until about 5 years ago, we did conventional ag (plowing, discing, sowing and cultipacking). For the last 5 years, we have been half-way doing regenerative ag (spraying, sowing and mowing - and occasionally lightly disc to expose some soil). We have had a good mulch layer in the last 5 years that helps retain soil moisture and protects against soil wind and water erosion. The ground does seem quite softer, which typically indicates healthier soil, as opposed to it being rocky and hard (that it has been prior to the last 5 years. We took the plunge and bought a no-till drill last year and started no-tilling seed into the fields. Simply spray and drill. Our next purchase will be a roller-crimper, which we hope to have before this coming spring. That will complete the process of no applicants or additives. Just planting different forages for different root systems. Look up growingdeer.tv and check out his food plot videos - they are very informative!

Rye will definitely help build the soil - it will produce a TON of biomass in the spring that will add a lot of mulch and carbon to the ground/soil. That and some crimson clover, which adds nitrogen to the soil. Both of those will grow anywhere and put on a lot of biomass. You'll need to terminate the rye in the spring after it gets high and before seed is formed. Then just plant some buckwheat, or something that is fairly drought tolerant.

Come spring, we will drill our soybeans into our fall mixture that is 4-6 ft tall. A week or so after, we will crimp it (terminate it). The rye acts not only a weed suppressor (3-5 inches thick), but it also releases allelopathic chemicals which prevents small weed seeds from germinating. Once the soybeans are grown, come late summer or early fall, we will drill our fall crop right into the soybeans.

Essentially, you always want to have a living root, which helps the soil, but also you will have something for the critters to eat year-round.
Dr. Woods methods for soil building are spot on and do work well. Plus planting successive crops into each previous crop saves a fortune on herbicides. I use multiple species for planting also. There is no reason you cant vary your plantings so they include food, soil building and cover properties all in one.
 

DeerCamp

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Dr. Woods methods for soil building are spot on and do work well. Plus planting successive crops into each previous crop saves a fortune on herbicides. I use multiple species for planting also. There is no reason you cant vary your plantings so they include food, soil building and cover properties all in one.
Would you care to share your suggestions?
 

Popcorn

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Would you care to share your suggestions?
For winter cover crops it is very hard to beat the buffalo blend but if you have weeds to suppress go heavy on the cereal rye . It will suppress weeds, hold your soil and provide an insulating cover next spring that will help keep soil temps lower, moisture levels higher and provide browse all winter. The summer blends can be varied greatly depending on your soil needs and personal thoughts. Below is my favorite summer blend. It provides everything. Note that sudan sudex or sorhgum sudex is small seeded and they are light seed so you can get too much easily. It will also reseed to a degree and subsequent plantings will get thicker and overshadow other species but it does produce a lot of organic matter. This coming year we are not planting the sorhgum but are increasing the sun hemp. Sun hemp is a legume, deer will browse it, it runs a deep rooting system penetrating hard pans and producing a fiberous stalk for biomatter.


Species lbs / acre % by weight C:N seed / lb

Sun Hemp 6 9% 30:1 15,000

Sun Flower 4 6% leaves 15:1 8,000

Stalk 45:1

Grain Sorghum 2 3% 50:1 18,000

Cow Pea 8 13% 20:1 4,000

Buckwheat 8 13% 35:1 18,000

Eagle forage Bean 22 35% 30:1 3000

Tall type

Balansia Clover 2 3% 15:1 500,000

Spring Oats 10 18% 70:1 16,000


Specie 7 60 100%
 

Popcorn

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I've really wanted to try to Forage Beans but I've never grown them, and my one attempt to grow corn was a disaster.
Corn is very needy. It requires a narrow range of PH, a big need for nitrogen and a incredible amount of water but not much over that. It also needs amounts of things most people are not aware of like phosphorous and boron. To make it worse corn is technically a grass that cannot compete. Without good soil, liberal amounts of fertilizer and chemicals, lots of attention and the right amount of rain corn can quickly go south.
Forage beans require no nitrogen (they make their own) will grow in a wide variety of soils, are not as PH picky and if planted at a good rate will out compete most weeds and grasses. They do like to be planted following a cover crop and they do like rain but are far more forgiving. As long as the beans make good seed to soil contact (1/2 to 3/4 inches deep) and a decent amount of rain, thats all. Its a bean just like your garden beans. Eagle seed has the round up ready feature that sure is nice when it comes to planting in previously problem areas. You will love em!
 

DeerCamp

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Corn is very needy. It requires a narrow range of PH, a big need for nitrogen and a incredible amount of water but not much over that. It also needs amounts of things most people are not aware of like phosphorous and boron. To make it worse corn is technically a grass that cannot compete. Without good soil, liberal amounts of fertilizer and chemicals, lots of attention and the right amount of rain corn can quickly go south.
Forage beans require no nitrogen (they make their own) will grow in a wide variety of soils, are not as PH picky and if planted at a good rate will out compete most weeds and grasses. They do like to be planted following a cover crop and they do like rain but are far more forgiving. As long as the beans make good seed to soil contact (1/2 to 3/4 inches deep) and a decent amount of rain, thats all. Its a bean just like your garden beans. Eagle seed has the round up ready feature that sure is nice when it comes to planting in previously problem areas. You will love em!
Genuine thanks. I may have the fortitude to give them a shot!
 

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