Food Plots Stand of Cereal Rye, with some Winter Wheat.

Tennessee Deer Sporting & Deer Hunting Community Forum

Help Support TNDeer | Tennessee Deer:

DeerCamp

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 28, 2020
Messages
4,669
Posted a much more in depth thread in QDM forum, but here's cereal rye, with some Winter wheat. Just sowed 50lbs of forage oats and Will overseed with another 100lbs of winter rye in 2 weeks.

The other 2/3 of the plot is up the hill to the right of the blind.

FuoHRFI.jpg


8mAO4E8.jpg


View from end of new plot. This plot is still connected to the main plot in the shape of an L, with the main plot being up the hill and to the right of the blind in this pic

ZXf2gPI.jpg
 
foodplot":1u5q93s6 said:
looks really good.....

Thanks! It's a tough area at times. The soil quality on the hills is poor (loamy clay, recently cleared of mix of hardwoods and evergreens) and the soil in the bottoms is better but always wet. Tried to bridge the two and am using the mulching methods to improve.

I made a 1300 mile trip to Wisconsin this past March and thought they had burned the fields in rural Northern Indiana till I realized the soil had been disced and was just ... Black. Kinda shocking.
 
HA yea it is amazing how the soil is so rich in areas such as the midwest and others. It truly is black. We use the same method (regenerative ag) by utilizing the mulch layer as fertilizer for the next crop and encouraging earthworms to deposit manure by no-till drilling our plots.
 
JCDEERMAN":sqzufpon said:
HA yea it is amazing how the soil is so rich in areas such as the midwest and others. It truly is black. We use the same method (regenerative ag) by utilizing the mulch layer as fertilizer for the next crop and encouraging earthworms to deposit manure by no-till drilling our plots.

Have you found that it makes a significant difference?

How many years before you start to see the benefits?

I was able to do spray and mow down the top portion of the hill (approximately 1 Acre) and seed into the existing "mulch" but the lwer acre, which is new, was 100% bare ground.

Any opinions on if this Rye/Wheat will make a good mulch layer next summer?
 
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases. Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change.
Up until about 5 years ago, we did conventional ag (plowing, discing, sowing and cultipacking). For the last 5 years, we have been half-way doing regenerative ag (spraying, sowing and mowing - and occasionally lightly disc to expose some soil). We have had a good mulch layer in the last 5 years that helps retain soil moisture and protects against soil wind and water erosion. The ground does seem quite softer, which typically indicates healthier soil, as opposed to it being rocky and hard (that it has been prior to the last 5 years. We took the plunge and bought a no-till drill last year and started no-tilling seed into the fields. Simply spray and drill. Our next purchase will be a roller-crimper, which we hope to have before this coming spring. That will complete the process of no applicants or additives. Just planting different forages for different root systems. Look up growingdeer.tv and check out his food plot videos - they are very informative!

Rye will definitely help build the soil - it will produce a TON of biomass in the spring that will add a lot of mulch and carbon to the ground/soil. That and some crimson clover, which adds nitrogen to the soil. Both of those will grow anywhere and put on a lot of biomass. You'll need to terminate the rye in the spring after it gets high and before seed is formed. Then just plant some buckwheat, or something that is fairly drought tolerant.

Come spring, we will drill our soybeans into our fall mixture that is 4-6 ft tall. A week or so after, we will crimp it (terminate it). The rye acts not only a weed suppressor (3-5 inches thick), but it also releases allelopathic chemicals which prevents small weed seeds from germinating. Once the soybeans are grown, come late summer or early fall, we will drill our fall crop right into the soybeans.

Essentially, you always want to have a living root, which helps the soil, but also you will have something for the critters to eat year-round.
 
JCDEERMAN":1luppi86 said:
Up until about 5 years ago, we did conventional ag (plowing, discing, sowing and cultipacking). For the last 5 years, we have been half-way doing regenerative ag (spraying, sowing and mowing - and occasionally lightly disc to expose some soil). We have had a good mulch layer in the last 5 years that helps retain soil moisture and protects against soil wind and water erosion. The ground does seem quite softer, which typically indicates healthier soil, as opposed to it being rocky and hard (that it has been prior to the last 5 years. We took the plunge and bought a no-till drill last year and started no-tilling seed into the fields. Simply spray and drill. Our next purchase will be a roller-crimper, which we hope to have before this coming spring. That will complete the process of no applicants or additives. Just planting different forages for different root systems. Look up growingdeer.tv and check out his food plot videos - they are very informative!

Rye will definitely help build the soil - it will produce a TON of biomass in the spring that will add a lot of mulch and carbon to the ground/soil. That and some crimson clover, which adds nitrogen to the soil. Both of those will grow anywhere and put on a lot of biomass. You'll need to terminate the rye in the spring after it gets high and before seed is formed. Then just plant some buckwheat, or something that is fairly drought tolerant.

Come spring, we will drill our soybeans into our fall mixture that is 4-6 ft tall. A week or so after, we will crimp it (terminate it). The rye acts not only a weed suppressor (3-5 inches thick), but it also releases allelopathic chemicals which prevents small weed seeds from germinating. Once the soybeans are grown, come late summer or early fall, we will drill our fall crop right into the soybeans.

Essentially, you always want to have a living root, which helps the soil, but also you will have something for the critters to eat year-round.

:pop:

Thank you for the information!
 
Are you using eagle seed soy beans. I planted 15 acres of them this year and they mowed them down after they got 4" tall. I have now planted the buffalo blend where the soy beans were planted. I'm thinking about just getting the soy beans from quail unlimited for next year to save some money but worried about them not being a forage soybean.
 
Really looking good for the first year deercamp! It's only going to get better each year as you amend your ground!

I'm sure you pulled soil samples, but I'd spend the money at least annually until you get the ph around 6.6 to 6.8.

If i didn't have access to a drill, I'd do what JC stated....

Next spring, terminate the winter crop with gly, then broadcast something for the summer which produces a lot of biomass, then bushhog the terminated winter crop to cover the broadcast seeds.... grain sorghum would be great in a new plot. You arent feeding the deer in the summer, just growing biomass and breaking up the soil with the root systems.

Next fall, terminate the sorghum with gly, then broadcast your cereal grains plus clover, plus a broadleaf (id recommend the ecotill radishes). Bushhog the dead sorgham to cover the fall seed.

Keep rinsing and repeating and you will build a healthy layer of mulch which serves as a natural fertilizer and prevents erosion.

After a few years, you can probably give beans a try for the summer.... but they wl probably get mowed down in a smaller plot... perhaps a mix of forage beans, millet, sunflowers, and buckwheat would be better in a small plot to actually feed deer in summer.

Keep something growing year round, not just for hunting season. Not that you need to feed the deer in the summer, but rather to keep building your soil.

Sent from my SM-G970U1 using Tapatalk
 
Footvolman":3w43v1uq said:
Are you using eagle seed soy beans. I planted 15 acres of them this year and they mowed them down after they got 4" tall. I have now planted the buffalo blend where the soy beans were planted. I'm thinking about just getting the soy beans from quail unlimited for next year to save some money but worried about them not being a forage soybean.

I am not. The total acreage of the food plot is estimated to be 2 acres. I have been concerned that the beans wouldn't survive to the fall from deer pressure!
 
megalomaniac":3ot2kgai said:
Really looking good for the first year deercamp! It's only going to get better each year as you amend your ground!

I'm sure you pulled soil samples, but I'd spend the money at least annually until you get the ph around 6.6 to 6.8.

If i didn't have access to a drill, I'd do what JC stated....

Next spring, terminate the winter crop with gly, then broadcast something for the summer which produces a lot of biomass, then bushhog the terminated winter crop to cover the broadcast seeds.... grain sorghum would be great in a new plot. You arent feeding the deer in the summer, just growing biomass and breaking up the soil with the root systems.

Next fall, terminate the sorghum with gly, then broadcast your cereal grains plus clover, plus a broadleaf (id recommend the ecotill radishes). Bushhog the dead sorgham to cover the fall seed.

Keep rinsing and repeating and you will build a healthy layer of mulch which serves as a natural fertilizer and prevents erosion.

After a few years, you can probably give beans a try for the summer.... but they wl probably get mowed down in a smaller plot... perhaps a mix of forage beans, millet, sunflowers, and buckwheat would be better in a small plot to actually feed deer in summer.

Keep something growing year round, not just for hunting season. Not that you need to feed the deer in the summer, but rather to keep building your soil.

Sent from my SM-G970U1 using Tapatalk

This is some really great information. I bought several bags of the "Barricade" mixes on clearance that I had planned to use for screening instead of Egyptian wheat next year. They are really just mixes of 4 different types of sorghum. Now I'm thinking I'm going to plant the whole plot in that mix and then terminate the sorghum in early fall, but leave a buffer of standing sorghum around the whole plot to use for screening.

The upper half of the plot is Winter wheat, Winter Rye plus brassicas. It's coming in well also, so I've got hope for this poor soil :)
fISwmD2.jpg
 
Footvolman":2tjcy0yu said:
Are you using eagle seed soy beans. I planted 15 acres of them this year and they mowed them down after they got 4" tall. I have now planted the buffalo blend where the soy beans were planted. I'm thinking about just getting the soy beans from quail unlimited for next year to save some money but worried about them not being a forage soybean.
I wish I could afford the Eagle beans. We got the beans from Quail Forever (I'm a member) and I was very happy with the beans. In our biggest field, they got up to almost waist high producing around 30 pods per stalk. We drilled our fall blend right into the standing soybeans.

If you are interested in joining QF, go to their website. The deadline for ordering seed is the end of this month (9/30/20). Let me know if you need any help.
 
I'm a member and was going to place an order today. Thanks for the information I'll try the cheap ones this year. Want hurt near as bad if they eat a $10 bag compared to a $87 bag, before they can come up.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 
Footvolman":1uez74g9 said:
I'm a member and was going to place an order today. Thanks for the information I'll try the cheap ones this year. Want hurt near as bad if they eat a $10 bag compared to a $87 bag, before they can come up.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
For sure! They have gone up to $15 a bag this year, but still a great price.
 
Footvolman":21r2z9o5 said:
I planted the eagle seed buffalo blend 2 weeks ago. Very pleased with it
a50e489b2cd010b35efd9728dbfd2a55.jpg


Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
What clover is in that blend, and how much was it per acre? Sure looks good!

Sent from my SM-G970U1 using Tapatalk
 
It was $64.50 a bag ordered directly from eagleseed (with shipping). That is a 45lb bag. I planted heavy at almost a bag and a half an acre.
d709aa40deeb3b991e3bf85db062a151.jpg


Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 
Actually a great idea to add a tad of buckwheat, esp if sowing early Sept and it has a couple weeks to pop. That will provide some early season browse and keep them from eating all the wheat and rye. I may do that next year myself!

Sent from my SM-G970U1 using Tapatalk
 
Deer are finally starting to show up daily.

A little concerned about the lack of fawns. We have seen several drop off the radar, probably due to predation.
 

Attachments

  • spypoint.jpg
    spypoint.jpg
    38.7 KB
Good deal! I saw quite a few in the fields we planted over the weekend. One was a 3.5 yo buck that just shifted onto us over the last week. He sure found the food - he ate for over 45 minutes. It's unfortunate that he is far below average rack-wise than our typical bucks that age.
 
Man, id love to have a 25% fawn recruitment.... been almost 10 years since we even had 50%. Coyotes are wiping out my deer.

We've been hammering them, and we are up to 20% this year from what ive observed. Not good, but better than the 10-15% we've been running past 5 years.

Sent from my SM-G970U1 using Tapatalk
 
megalomaniac":2u9a4p17 said:
Man, id love to have a 25% fawn recruitment.... been almost 10 years since we even had 50%. Coyotes are wiping out my deer.

We've been hammering them, and we are up to 20% this year from what ive observed. Not good, but better than the 10-15% we've been running past 5 years.

Sent from my SM-G970U1 using Tapatalk

Wow. The most recent video I got had 3 coyotes traveling together mid day, looking quite healthy. I'm going to be on a trapping mission after the season
 
I have seen quite a few coyotes and bobcats on camera at all hours of the day. Not very many fawns for the number of does I've seen
 
Up until about 5 years ago, we did conventional ag (plowing, discing, sowing and cultipacking). For the last 5 years, we have been half-way doing regenerative ag (spraying, sowing and mowing - and occasionally lightly disc to expose some soil). We have had a good mulch layer in the last 5 years that helps retain soil moisture and protects against soil wind and water erosion. The ground does seem quite softer, which typically indicates healthier soil, as opposed to it being rocky and hard (that it has been prior to the last 5 years. We took the plunge and bought a no-till drill last year and started no-tilling seed into the fields. Simply spray and drill. Our next purchase will be a roller-crimper, which we hope to have before this coming spring. That will complete the process of no applicants or additives. Just planting different forages for different root systems. Look up growingdeer.tv and check out his food plot videos - they are very informative!

Rye will definitely help build the soil - it will produce a TON of biomass in the spring that will add a lot of mulch and carbon to the ground/soil. That and some crimson clover, which adds nitrogen to the soil. Both of those will grow anywhere and put on a lot of biomass. You'll need to terminate the rye in the spring after it gets high and before seed is formed. Then just plant some buckwheat, or something that is fairly drought tolerant.

Come spring, we will drill our soybeans into our fall mixture that is 4-6 ft tall. A week or so after, we will crimp it (terminate it). The rye acts not only a weed suppressor (3-5 inches thick), but it also releases allelopathic chemicals which prevents small weed seeds from germinating. Once the soybeans are grown, come late summer or early fall, we will drill our fall crop right into the soybeans.

Essentially, you always want to have a living root, which helps the soil, but also you will have something for the critters to eat year-round.
Dr. Woods methods for soil building are spot on and do work well. Plus planting successive crops into each previous crop saves a fortune on herbicides. I use multiple species for planting also. There is no reason you cant vary your plantings so they include food, soil building and cover properties all in one.
 
Dr. Woods methods for soil building are spot on and do work well. Plus planting successive crops into each previous crop saves a fortune on herbicides. I use multiple species for planting also. There is no reason you cant vary your plantings so they include food, soil building and cover properties all in one.
Would you care to share your suggestions?
 
Would you care to share your suggestions?
For winter cover crops it is very hard to beat the buffalo blend but if you have weeds to suppress go heavy on the cereal rye . It will suppress weeds, hold your soil and provide an insulating cover next spring that will help keep soil temps lower, moisture levels higher and provide browse all winter. The summer blends can be varied greatly depending on your soil needs and personal thoughts. Below is my favorite summer blend. It provides everything. Note that sudan sudex or sorhgum sudex is small seeded and they are light seed so you can get too much easily. It will also reseed to a degree and subsequent plantings will get thicker and overshadow other species but it does produce a lot of organic matter. This coming year we are not planting the sorhgum but are increasing the sun hemp. Sun hemp is a legume, deer will browse it, it runs a deep rooting system penetrating hard pans and producing a fiberous stalk for biomatter.


Species lbs / acre % by weight C:N seed / lb

Sun Hemp 6 9% 30:1 15,000

Sun Flower 4 6% leaves 15:1 8,000

Stalk 45:1

Grain Sorghum 2 3% 50:1 18,000

Cow Pea 8 13% 20:1 4,000

Buckwheat 8 13% 35:1 18,000

Eagle forage Bean 22 35% 30:1 3000

Tall type

Balansia Clover 2 3% 15:1 500,000

Spring Oats 10 18% 70:1 16,000


Specie 7 60 100%
 
I've really wanted to try to Forage Beans but I've never grown them, and my one attempt to grow corn was a disaster.
 
I've really wanted to try to Forage Beans but I've never grown them, and my one attempt to grow corn was a disaster.
Corn is very needy. It requires a narrow range of PH, a big need for nitrogen and a incredible amount of water but not much over that. It also needs amounts of things most people are not aware of like phosphorous and boron. To make it worse corn is technically a grass that cannot compete. Without good soil, liberal amounts of fertilizer and chemicals, lots of attention and the right amount of rain corn can quickly go south.
Forage beans require no nitrogen (they make their own) will grow in a wide variety of soils, are not as PH picky and if planted at a good rate will out compete most weeds and grasses. They do like to be planted following a cover crop and they do like rain but are far more forgiving. As long as the beans make good seed to soil contact (1/2 to 3/4 inches deep) and a decent amount of rain, thats all. Its a bean just like your garden beans. Eagle seed has the round up ready feature that sure is nice when it comes to planting in previously problem areas. You will love em!
 
Corn is very needy. It requires a narrow range of PH, a big need for nitrogen and a incredible amount of water but not much over that. It also needs amounts of things most people are not aware of like phosphorous and boron. To make it worse corn is technically a grass that cannot compete. Without good soil, liberal amounts of fertilizer and chemicals, lots of attention and the right amount of rain corn can quickly go south.
Forage beans require no nitrogen (they make their own) will grow in a wide variety of soils, are not as PH picky and if planted at a good rate will out compete most weeds and grasses. They do like to be planted following a cover crop and they do like rain but are far more forgiving. As long as the beans make good seed to soil contact (1/2 to 3/4 inches deep) and a decent amount of rain, thats all. Its a bean just like your garden beans. Eagle seed has the round up ready feature that sure is nice when it comes to planting in previously problem areas. You will love em!
Genuine thanks. I may have the fortitude to give them a shot!
 

Latest posts

Back
Top