Remington 700 - rebarreling - Good gunsmith in Middle TN

[Mossyoakbuck]

I have a Remington 700 ADL in .30-06 that I got around 1998 when I was 14 years old. It was my first rifle so it has sentimental value to me as well. The only thing I have done is swapped the walnut stock with a synthetic and put in a Timeny trigger. Lately it seems that it is becoming less accurate so not sure if it's time to rebarrel. I've researched and it seems a popular rebarrel is to do a Remage barrel and use a Savage style barrel nut. But, looking at the nut, I don't think it will work with my current stock so I'll probably just replace it with a factory style barrel but maybe a thicker profile.

Since I can't do the rebarrel myself, I'll need a gunsmith. Can somebody recommend a good gunsmith in the middle TN area?

I've done some gun work on my AR and could probably do the rebarrel if I can do it with the Remage barrel and use the barrel nut but as I said earlier, don't think the stock will work with the barrel nut.

Suggestions on a good gunsmith in Middle TN?

 

[MUP]

Have you tried a thorough copper cleaning of the barrel yet? How many rounds shot thru it would you think?

 

[Mossyoakbuck]

I'll try the copper cleaning just in case. I'd say 1,500 maybe? Hard to tell since I don't track how many rounds I shoot. I used to shoot it a lot but haven't as much in the last few years.

Not sure what the barrel life is for a .30 rifle.

 

[Plateau Hunter]

An 06 barrel should have hunting accuracy for more than 5000 rounds…maybe as much as 10000…

 

[TNRifleman]

Unless something else happened like rust, 1500 rounds is nothing for a 30-06. It probably needs scrubbed, then scrubbed again and maybe once more to get the copper out. Then you should be good to go to keep shooting it.

 

[mr.big]

If you're set on rebarreling with the nut I'm pretty sure Greg Young makes a nut that will work with a factory stock

Bugholes.com

 

[nso123]

If you're set on rebarreling with the nut I'm pretty sure Greg Young makes a nut that will work with a factory stock

Bugholes.com

And Greg does awesome work on chambering barrels. I have one of his prefits on a Bighorn action, and it shoots great.

 

[Openlake]

Rebarrel if you have an issue, or if you have a desire for better quality/profile.

Real world, as suggested, use a good copper solvent with a good coated cleaning rod. You'll need caliber specific brushes and patches. Be sure to check other basics like properly tightened action, scope base and ring screws. You mentioned a synthetic stock, was that factory? If so, upgrading to a name brand fiberglass stock and glass bedding can help a ton. Also, are using the same brand ammo with the same weight bullet is vital. Even different lots can change point of impact.

 

[Ebby]

Sometimes you just want a new barrel and new toy to play with. I understand that better than most. Ha.

If you want to try and salvage it then do as they say. Prob will help.

If you want a new toy, call Greg. He's in Cookeville. He's as good as they get. He's built several for me. I've had guns built all over the country by different smiths and he's just as good as anybody out there. Great guy too. Southern Precision is the name but mostly known as Bugholes.

Lee

 

[Omega]

Unless you want a new barrel, I'd try the cleaning as suggested, and check your crown to make sure you didn't ding it.

 

[Mossyoakbuck]

Sorry for the late replies.

What is a good recommended copper solvent, that I can hopefully get locally? I'm going to go that route first.

To answer a few questions from earlier, it is a factory Remington synthetic stock. As for ammo, it shoots anything Remington pretty well with Core-Lokt and/or Accutip, both in 150 grn, the best. I can shoot either interchangeably depending what I can find.

I'll likely give Greg a call and see what he says. He's only an hour from me to not a bad drive if needed.

 

[Openlake]

I figured the people that made all copper bullets probably make a good copper solvent. Barnes CR10. Use finesse not brute strength.

That first pass through the barrel from the receiver end may be very tight. Use solvent patch, brush, cleaning patch. About 4 strokes each. Repeat until the solvent patches come out clean. When satisfied it is clean, run a patch of light oil, like rem oil down the barrel, then a dry patch. Enjoy the ammonia smell.

Be mindful of damage entering the rifling and the barrel crown. It's generally recommended to use a bore guide to keep the alignment good through the chamber. Use correct size bore brush.

Probably some good YouTube videos on the subject.

 

[Deer Assassin]

this is the best stuff IMO


Amazon product ASIN B0070IRZFI

 

[Long walker]

I've had great luck with the BoreTech products. I use their eliminator and cooper solvents and like that they're not stinky/volitile.

I'm also a big proponent of using a bore guide. There are some inexpensive universal options out there that help make sure you don't accidentally get your cleaning rod sideways.

Of course YMMV and like others have mentioned if you want a new barrel go for it!

 

[Mossyoakbuck]

I've got bore guides for all my guns/calibers. I probably need to pick up some more brushes at the same time.

 

[gary66]

the only thing in the equation that has changed is your age and the ammo. If it isn't you I'd say it was the ammo. Things aren't what they used to be, certain products are scarce, metals are one of them. Have you seen the price of copper wire? If the requirement to declare something copper in ammo is up to a certain percentage they could be using the least amount now. This is common in many things, your town can repave a road with 1% virgin asphalt mix, but a state road requires 14%. If you buy windows and the screens are of aluminum (Anderson windows) you won't get the screens till months after the month you waited for the window.

I wouldn't do anything just yet, what you replace maybe far superior to what you end up with. Look at a new penny, probably what they are doing to ammo.

 

[Mossyoakbuck]

I'm going to give it a really good cleaning and and clean out the copper fouling and see what happens. If I'm still having issues then I'll look more into a new barrel, etc.

I'll have to go back and look at my notes, but what is a good torque number for the action screws? Everything I've found online ranges from "tight, but not too tight" to a broad torque range. It's a Remingto 700 ADL .30-06 with a factory synthetic stock (originally came with walnut stock).

 

[MUP]

45 in/lb is the recommended torque setting for a synthetic stock Remington Model 700.

https://goneoutdoors.com/action-torque-specifications-remington-700-7501697.html

 

[MUP]

Keep in mind that it'll likely take a good while, and many patches thru it to get all the copper out from years of shooting.

 

[mr.big]

If it hasn't been really cleaned in a long time I would get some Iosso paste and I like to shoot it 4 or 5 times pretty fast and warm it up and start cleaning on it with the Iosso or JB bore paste either one before it cools off. It will make short work of an otherwise tough job

 

[Mossyoakbuck]

I figured it's going to be a chore to get all the fouling out. I don't have the option right now to shoot so I'm going to have to resort to letting the solvent work and old fashioned elbow grease.

 

[TiminTN]

Words of wisdom

 

[MODEL7FAN]

If you use a copper cleaner that has ammonia in it be sure you get all that out within an hour as it will eat your barrel. I agree a thorough cleaning will restore the accuracy well within hunting spec.

 

[Derek]

Guns and Leather in Greenbrier. Gunsmith is Jeff Walle.
He is good.

 

[Ahuntin1]

Once you clean it, try some heavier bullets too. I had a rifle go south and couldn't figure it out until I bough some 180 grain bullets and it shot them perfect.