Chainsaw recommendation

backyardtndeer

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 29, 2015
Messages
21,453
Location
West Tennessee
Guess I will elaborate on my suggestion a little. I own both a Stihl 024 16 inch bar and the echo I suggested(cs400), which has an 18 inch bar. The Stihl is a good saw, and it cuts fine. It is heavier though and honestly doesn't cut any faster than the echo. The stihl is a lot harder to get started too. The echo has a primer bulb, usually a couple pulls of the cold saw and it is ready to go. Not the case with my stihl. Parts for both are fairly reasonable and easy to find. I grab my echo 99 percent of the time when I need to cut something.
 

TNlandowner

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 28, 2006
Messages
1,511
Location
Carroll County
I own and love my Jonsored CS2255. Here is a buying guide from Jonsored Chainsaws (Swedish Division of Husqvarna).

10 tips before buying a chainsaw


1. Safety is important. Make sure the saw has essential safety features such as kickback protection, chain brake, right hand guard and catcher stud.


2. Are both handles adequately protected from vibration? Vibration will quickly cause fatigue.


3. Choose a powerful enough saw right from the start. Many people buy an underpowered saw the first time.


4. Is the air filter system designed to avoid clogging with sawdust?


5. Is the saw easy to maintain? Is there a good user manual?


6. Will the saw run on unleaded petrol? Can you use vegetable-based chain oil?


7. Can the dealer service your saw? Do they have spare parts and accessories?


8. Can the dealer demonstrate the saw? Do they offer useful operating instructions on video and in brochures?


9. Can the dealer supply you with the necessary protective equipment?


10. Do you want to work indoors and outdoors? If so, buy a good electric saw that is built by professionals
 

Bfowler

Member
Joined
Nov 10, 2020
Messages
15
Location
Dickson
I own a Husqvarna 455 Rancher and a Stihl 362 CM. I've had the Husq for about 10 years, and the Stihl for 2 years, only issue I have had was the oil reservoir leaking on the Husq. The stihl is a pro grade saw so the power is far superior of the Husq. The Stihl cold cranks easier and will start 1 pull after warm. No matter if I'm felling trees or cutting firewood I go with the Stihl hands down. The still is about $300 more than the Husq but well worth the money IMO. I'm not trying to put down the Husq because it is also a very good saw and will do anything you need it to do, within reason.
 

bigtex

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 6, 2004
Messages
4,947
Location
Brush Creek
I'm a chainsaw fanatic. I currently own and use 4 saws. An old Husky 51, Husky 455 Rancher, Husky 562XP and a Stihl MS250. The 51 is almost 20 years old and still runs well, the 455 I purchased in 2011 and it is starting to have problems. It probably needs a carb rebuild. I got the 462XP last year and it is a beast! I have no idea how old the MS250 is as I purchased it used. I don't think it has seen a lot of use by it's appearance.
I am a tree farmer and also burn firewood for my primary source of heat. Each saw has it's own intended purpose. For felling and bucking I grab the 455 or 562XP, for limbing and the smaller stuff my go-to saws are the 51 or MS250.
I couldn't imagine going into the woods with only one saw. I go prepared for the inevitable pinched bar, i've been sawing for more years than most on here are old but no matter how careful I am I still on a rare occasion pinch a bar.
Just yesterday I felled a "dead standing" red oak. It was an honest 33" on the but cut. I certainly appreciated the power of the Husky 562! I could of felled the tree with the MS250 or even the little 51 but it would of been very time consuming.
All of my saws were purchased new except the Stihl MS250. I purchased it from a member on here last year. It is also the saw with the most problems. Not blaming the seller as the saw ran great for the first couple of months, then it started acting up. Hard to start, when finally running would only run for a few minutes then shut down. After two attempts to clean and repair the carb I finally broke down and replaced the carb with a new one yesterday. So far so good, not had it in the woods yet so time will tell. When it runs it runs well. My biggest peave is it doesn't have compression relief nor a primer bulb. But so far with the new carb it usually starts on the 3rd pull.
 

TN1BUCK

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 6, 2007
Messages
650
Location
TN
I bought a Stihl MS 193 t for top handle, is was 319.00 I thought I was crazy. I take care of 100 acres with it never leaves my side by side. Like it more than my tractor. I use the premix bought gas, makes them run like on jet fuel. It was mysteriously missing one day? I replaced it with the MS 201 T C-M this saw cost 639.00 made in Germany with better metal parts and better carb. This saw will not wear you out, After 2 near misses on knees, with my farm boss. I said what are my knees worth to me? I saw that Echo has a saw this size for around 400.00 but have no experience with that one.
 

jaybird62

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 23, 2006
Messages
728
Location
Lewisburg, TN
Bought my first saw in 1979 when I was 16. I have used every brand I know of, and have owned several. Stihl is my top choice. A Farmboss with a 20-inch bar will do it all, but be prepared for the weight. Avoid the gimmicks like EZ Start.
 

Shag

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 7, 2016
Messages
2,024
Fourth generation logger here. My family has ran chainsaws since there have been chainsaws pretty much. Nowadays we run Husqvarna and Stihl saws. I've got saws from 35cc to 92cc. I use my smaller saws for chainsaw carving and 70cc+ in the log woods and for firewood. There really isn't a one size fits all when it comes to saws. Different size saw for different jobs. For your described intended purposes, I'd say a mid 50's to 60's cc saw would be a pretty good all around choice. The Husqvarna 562xp is a great little light weight saw that will flat out CUT, but it comes at a professional level price tag. I have a Stihl MS250 that others have recommended. It's fine…but not big enough for a big job and a little too big for detailed cutting on my carvings. It gets the least use of any in my stable.
 

rifle02

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Joined
Dec 12, 2018
Messages
1,440
Location
Sale Creek
On tsi work I only use hack and squirt , very effective and not as labor intensive.
You can girdle a beech twice and still only have 50% success.

I just completed 190 ac and would never go back to using a chain saw

If you want some cover then hinge cut would help on that using a chainsaw
The year after doing hack and squirt more sunlight will hit the floor and you will see more oak regeneration
Thanks, that's good info. I only made a quick walk through the hardwoods before pulling the trigger on this property. It was selective cut in 2010. From what I saw it's mostly Poplar. And yes I plan on doing mostly hacking squirt. But regardless of that I still need to buy a new chainsaw!
 

rifle02

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 12, 2018
Messages
1,440
Location
Sale Creek
Really think about how you are gonna use a chainsaw. Girdling a tree is just cutting into the bark about 2 inches. That doesn't take alot of saw. You want a very light saw to carry all day. Your swinging this saw above your waist and near your chest. You want 100% control.
If you are cutting down a tree for tsi...most likely the tree is not merchantable...so likely not a big diameter tree. Thus a light saw with a 16 in bar will likely do.
If your cutting down bigger trees for logs or firewood....that means a bigger saw. Think about it this way. Cutting down a tree is one cut. Cutting up a tree for firewood is 20 or more cuts.
My Tsi saw is a stihl 170. The only time my stihl 290 is used, is when its time to cut up a big red oak for firewood. But find what suits you and what you want it for.
 

rifle02

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 12, 2018
Messages
1,440
Location
Sale Creek
Thanks that's good info.
Stihl 180C-BE

I just spent two days doing TSI on my farm in Illinois and was impressed with this saw. It's light enough to work several hours and powerful enough to fell all but the biggest trees. I've used the 250 in the past but it wears you out after a couple hours.
That's what I'm trying to avoid.
 

rifle02

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 12, 2018
Messages
1,440
Location
Sale Creek
I own and love my Jonsored CS2255. Here is a buying guide from Jonsored Chainsaws (Swedish Division of Husqvarna).

10 tips before buying a chainsaw


1. Safety is important. Make sure the saw has essential safety features such as kickback protection, chain brake, right hand guard and catcher stud.


2. Are both handles adequately protected from vibration? Vibration will quickly cause fatigue.


3. Choose a powerful enough saw right from the start. Many people buy an underpowered saw the first time.


4. Is the air filter system designed to avoid clogging with sawdust?


5. Is the saw easy to maintain? Is there a good user manual?


6. Will the saw run on unleaded petrol? Can you use vegetable-based chain oil?


7. Can the dealer service your saw? Do they have spare parts and accessories?


8. Can the dealer demonstrate the saw? Do they offer useful operating instructions on video and in brochures?


9. Can the dealer supply you with the necessary protective equipment?


10. Do you want to work indoors and outdoors? If so, buy a good electric saw that is built by professionals
Thanks.
 

rifle02

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 12, 2018
Messages
1,440
Location
Sale Creek
I'm a chainsaw fanatic. I currently own and use 4 saws. An old Husky 51, Husky 455 Rancher, Husky 562XP and a Stihl MS250. The 51 is almost 20 years old and still runs well, the 455 I purchased in 2011 and it is starting to have problems. It probably needs a carb rebuild. I got the 462XP last year and it is a beast! I have no idea how old the MS250 is as I purchased it used. I don't think it has seen a lot of use by it's appearance.
I am a tree farmer and also burn firewood for my primary source of heat. Each saw has it's own intended purpose. For felling and bucking I grab the 455 or 562XP, for limbing and the smaller stuff my go-to saws are the 51 or MS250.
I couldn't imagine going into the woods with only one saw. I go prepared for the inevitable pinched bar, i've been sawing for more years than most on here are old but no matter how careful I am I still on a rare occasion pinch a bar.
Just yesterday I felled a "dead standing" red oak. It was an honest 33" on the but cut. I certainly appreciated the power of the Husky 562! I could of felled the tree with the MS250 or even the little 51 but it would of been very time consuming.
All of my saws were purchased new except the Stihl MS250. I purchased it from a member on here last year. It is also the saw with the most problems. Not blaming the seller as the saw ran great for the first couple of months, then it started acting up. Hard to start, when finally running would only run for a few minutes then shut down. After two attempts to clean and repair the carb I finally broke down and replaced the carb with a new one yesterday. So far so good, not had it in the woods yet so time will tell. When it runs it runs well. My biggest peave is it doesn't have compression relief nor a primer bulb. But so far with the new carb it usually starts on the 3rd pull.
Thanks for that. When I get a better handle on what the situation is, I may have to buy more than one chainsaw as you say.
 

TNHunter2521

Active Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2008
Messages
27
Location
Powell, Tennessee, USA
I am in the process of buying a piece of hunting property. I am looking forward to doing some TSI. The chainsaw that I currently own is just about shot. I think I will scrap it and start with a new one. I realize that a small and light chainsaw is more the order for girdling trees. I would like to find a happy medium one that is easy to handle and that won't wear me out doing that and also be able to cut firewood without being too small. Anyone have experience in this area? Any recommendations? Looking for a specific make and model. Thanks for any input.
This is TNHunter2521…. if you need help with your property I would gladly offer my assistance to help you. I'm looking for property to hunt for this coming season because the lease we had got snatched out from under us.
 

gary66

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 12, 2015
Messages
259
a good sharp chain makes any saw easy to use, a poor chain makes any saw a pain. Chainsaw A has chains that cost twice as much as chainsaw B...pick B

I have Stihl's big and small, the chain is what makes them worth owning. If you can find a saw with chains that perform well and cost less, buy it.
 

Omega

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 16, 2018
Messages
7,737
Location
Clarksville, TN
a good sharp chain makes any saw easy to use, a poor chain makes any saw a pain. Chainsaw A has chains that cost twice as much as chainsaw B...pick B

I have Stihl's big and small, the chain is what makes them worth owning. If you can find a saw with chains that perform well and cost less, buy it.
Most chainsaws use Oregon chains, which are pretty good, though some are more aggressive and some have the reduced kickback feature. But having a sharp chain is paramount, so a sharpener is necessary. It's best to have one that you can use in the field, I have files and a couple electric options. One is from Granberg, which is pretty good, works with the chain on and runs off the 12V on the truck, but it's pricey and you also need a bar clamp which gets hammered into a stump. But I also have the Harbor Freight one, and I prefer it really, it's 120v, but the plug in the back of my Tacoma runs it fine. The chain needs to be removed off the bar, but I always carry a spare so when I need to sharpen one, I have a sharp one to replace it with if I am racing the sun.

PRECISION GRINDER (12V) – BAR-MOUNTED CHAIN SAW SHARPENER – G1012XT
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Chainsaw Stump Vise
s-l400.jpg

Electric Chain Saw Sharpener
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HUNT4ONE

Active Member
Joined
Oct 1, 2020
Messages
30
I am in the process of buying a piece of hunting property. I am looking forward to doing some TSI. The chainsaw that I currently own is just about shot. I think I will scrap it and start with a new one. I realize that a small and light chainsaw is more the order for girdling trees. I would like to find a happy medium one that is easy to handle and that won't wear me out doing that and also be able to cut firewood without being too small. Anyone have experience in this area? Any recommendations? Looking for a specific make and model. Thanks for any input.
Without a doubt the best route is a Stihl. Most tree cutters will agree!!
I am in the process of buying a piece of hunting property. I am looking forward to doing some TSI. The chainsaw that I currently own is just about shot. I think I will scrap it and start with a new one. I realize that a small and light chainsaw is more the order for girdling trees. I would like to find a happy medium one that is easy to handle and that won't wear me out doing that and also be able to cut firewood without being too small. Anyone have experience in this area? Any recommendations? Looking for a specific make and model. Thanks for any input.
 
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