Chainsaw recommendation

Tennessee Deer Sporting & Deer Hunting Community Forum

Help Support TNDeer | Tennessee Deer:

R

rifle02

Well-Known Member
Gold Supporter
Joined
Dec 12, 2018
Messages
2,222
City & State/Province
Sale Creek
I am in the process of buying a piece of hunting property. I am looking forward to doing some TSI. The chainsaw that I currently own is just about shot. I think I will scrap it and start with a new one. I realize that a small and light chainsaw is more the order for girdling trees. I would like to find a happy medium one that is easy to handle and that won't wear me out doing that and also be able to cut firewood without being too small. Anyone have experience in this area? Any recommendations? Looking for a specific make and model. Thanks for any input.
 
I have 3 Stihl chainsaws: MS 271, 310, and 391 and wouldn't run any other brand. The bigger displacement saws are great for felling and bucking but they're heavy and will wear you out faster if you're walking. Consider what type of saw work you'll be doing, how big are the trees you're working in, and how much walking is involved.

Whatever brand you decide, get chaps and wear'em.
 
I'll also add that if you ever get around to buying a small saw, take a look at the MS 194 T. Very small and lightweight, but a very strong saw. Perfect for girdling and cutting smaller trees and de-limbing once the big saw put the bigger trees on the ground.
 
I'm a Stihl guy, but will run a Husky or Echo as they are solid saws. Stihl MS 250 is my favorite all around saw for the "average Joe", not a professional logger.

03A874EE-38DC-471E-838E-575EA663E617.jpeg
 
Really think about how you are gonna use a chainsaw. Girdling a tree is just cutting into the bark about 2 inches. That doesn't take alot of saw. You want a very light saw to carry all day. Your swinging this saw above your waist and near your chest. You want 100% control.
If you are cutting down a tree for tsi...most likely the tree is not merchantable...so likely not a big diameter tree. Thus a light saw with a 16 in bar will likely do.
If your cutting down bigger trees for logs or firewood....that means a bigger saw. Think about it this way. Cutting down a tree is one cut. Cutting up a tree for firewood is 20 or more cuts.
My Tsi saw is a stihl 170. The only time my stihl 290 is used, is when its time to cut up a big red oak for firewood. But find what suits you and what you want it for.
 
I bought $100 disposable saws many times. Use them, then start over. Finally decided to buy a "good" one. Lots of good comments about Stihl. So I bought one. A 271?, with the EZ pull start.

Dang thing is still a PITA to start. Once it is running, better keep it running cause if you shut it off or runs out of gas, it's even worse.

I may be the exception, but IMO, good and chainsaw don't belong in the same sentence!! But the Stihls get good comments
 
Running around out in the woods with a chainsaw is one thing. Cutting and stacking firewood back at the farm house or barn is another. On my ATV for the light work you're talking about, I carry a Milwaukee 2727-20 electric chainsaw with a 12a battery. It has a 16" bar. No problem starting it - just pull the trigger. I've run mine for 3 1/2 hours of brush clearing and girdling before the battery wore out (and I was wore out). I have other smaller amp batteries for my Milwaukee tools (they are all interchangeable) and can use the 5.0a or 3.0a to finish what I need while the 12a recharges. Suppose I could buy another 12a. :confused:

For all day cutting on a wood pile - my Husqvarna Rancher 55 with a 20" bar that I've had for 30 years. Good, reliable and fast starting. But in my mid-60's now, I'm not slinging it through the woods near as often.
 
I've had several saws over the years...Echo, Poulan, Homelite, Husky, Stihl, and Holzforma. I currently have three: Stihl 170 16", Echo 590 20", and Holzforma clone of a Stihl 660 with 24" and 36" bars. I use the Echo and the 660 for milling lumber out of logs.

I was absolutely amazed at how big of a job the little Stihl 170 can handle. And it was only $150 new on sale at Northern Tool. The Stihl can be cantankerous to start sometimes, but most of the time it starts on third pull. For what you're talking about, I'd get the Stihl 170 or the Echo 310.
 
rifle02 said:
I am in the process of buying a piece of hunting property. I am looking forward to doing some TSI. The chainsaw that I currently own is just about shot. I think I will scrap it and start with a new one. I realize that a small and light chainsaw is more the order for girdling trees. I would like to find a happy medium one that is easy to handle and that won't wear me out doing that and also be able to cut firewood without being too small. Anyone have experience in this area? Any recommendations? Looking for a specific make and model. Thanks for any input.
Click to expand...
On tsi work I only use hack and squirt , very effective and not as labor intensive.
You can girdle a beech twice and still only have 50% success.

I just completed 190 ac and would never go back to using a chain saw

If you want some cover then hinge cut would help on that using a chainsaw
The year after doing hack and squirt more sunlight will hit the floor and you will see more oak regeneration
 
This is my 2cents. My mom has heated with wood my whole life (42 years). I've been the one who's cut the wood since I was about twelve. I've found the two best choices for chainsaws stilh and Husqvarna. Stilh is more reliable and husqvarna has the most torque.
 
Stihl 180C-BE

I just spent two days doing TSI on my farm in Illinois and was impressed with this saw. It's light enough to work several hours and powerful enough to fell all but the biggest trees. I've used the 250 in the past but it wears you out after a couple hours.
 
Guess I will elaborate on my suggestion a little. I own both a Stihl 024 16 inch bar and the echo I suggested(cs400), which has an 18 inch bar. The Stihl is a good saw, and it cuts fine. It is heavier though and honestly doesn't cut any faster than the echo. The stihl is a lot harder to get started too. The echo has a primer bulb, usually a couple pulls of the cold saw and it is ready to go. Not the case with my stihl. Parts for both are fairly reasonable and easy to find. I grab my echo 99 percent of the time when I need to cut something.
 
I own and love my Jonsored CS2255. Here is a buying guide from Jonsored Chainsaws (Swedish Division of Husqvarna).

10 tips before buying a chainsaw


1. Safety is important. Make sure the saw has essential safety features such as kickback protection, chain brake, right hand guard and catcher stud.


2. Are both handles adequately protected from vibration? Vibration will quickly cause fatigue.


3. Choose a powerful enough saw right from the start. Many people buy an underpowered saw the first time.


4. Is the air filter system designed to avoid clogging with sawdust?


5. Is the saw easy to maintain? Is there a good user manual?


6. Will the saw run on unleaded petrol? Can you use vegetable-based chain oil?


7. Can the dealer service your saw? Do they have spare parts and accessories?


8. Can the dealer demonstrate the saw? Do they offer useful operating instructions on video and in brochures?


9. Can the dealer supply you with the necessary protective equipment?


10. Do you want to work indoors and outdoors? If so, buy a good electric saw that is built by professionals
 
I own a Husqvarna 455 Rancher and a Stihl 362 CM. I've had the Husq for about 10 years, and the Stihl for 2 years, only issue I have had was the oil reservoir leaking on the Husq. The stihl is a pro grade saw so the power is far superior of the Husq. The Stihl cold cranks easier and will start 1 pull after warm. No matter if I'm felling trees or cutting firewood I go with the Stihl hands down. The still is about $300 more than the Husq but well worth the money IMO. I'm not trying to put down the Husq because it is also a very good saw and will do anything you need it to do, within reason.
 
I'm a chainsaw fanatic. I currently own and use 4 saws. An old Husky 51, Husky 455 Rancher, Husky 562XP and a Stihl MS250. The 51 is almost 20 years old and still runs well, the 455 I purchased in 2011 and it is starting to have problems. It probably needs a carb rebuild. I got the 462XP last year and it is a beast! I have no idea how old the MS250 is as I purchased it used. I don't think it has seen a lot of use by it's appearance.
I am a tree farmer and also burn firewood for my primary source of heat. Each saw has it's own intended purpose. For felling and bucking I grab the 455 or 562XP, for limbing and the smaller stuff my go-to saws are the 51 or MS250.
I couldn't imagine going into the woods with only one saw. I go prepared for the inevitable pinched bar, i've been sawing for more years than most on here are old but no matter how careful I am I still on a rare occasion pinch a bar.
Just yesterday I felled a "dead standing" red oak. It was an honest 33" on the but cut. I certainly appreciated the power of the Husky 562! I could of felled the tree with the MS250 or even the little 51 but it would of been very time consuming.
All of my saws were purchased new except the Stihl MS250. I purchased it from a member on here last year. It is also the saw with the most problems. Not blaming the seller as the saw ran great for the first couple of months, then it started acting up. Hard to start, when finally running would only run for a few minutes then shut down. After two attempts to clean and repair the carb I finally broke down and replaced the carb with a new one yesterday. So far so good, not had it in the woods yet so time will tell. When it runs it runs well. My biggest peave is it doesn't have compression relief nor a primer bulb. But so far with the new carb it usually starts on the 3rd pull.
 
I bought a Stihl MS 193 t for top handle, is was 319.00 I thought I was crazy. I take care of 100 acres with it never leaves my side by side. Like it more than my tractor. I use the premix bought gas, makes them run like on jet fuel. It was mysteriously missing one day? I replaced it with the MS 201 T C-M this saw cost 639.00 made in Germany with better metal parts and better carb. This saw will not wear you out, After 2 near misses on knees, with my farm boss. I said what are my knees worth to me? I saw that Echo has a saw this size for around 400.00 but have no experience with that one.
 
Bought my first saw in 1979 when I was 16. I have used every brand I know of, and have owned several. Stihl is my top choice. A Farmboss with a 20-inch bar will do it all, but be prepared for the weight. Avoid the gimmicks like EZ Start.
 
Fourth generation logger here. My family has ran chainsaws since there have been chainsaws pretty much. Nowadays we run Husqvarna and Stihl saws. I've got saws from 35cc to 92cc. I use my smaller saws for chainsaw carving and 70cc+ in the log woods and for firewood. There really isn't a one size fits all when it comes to saws. Different size saw for different jobs. For your described intended purposes, I'd say a mid 50's to 60's cc saw would be a pretty good all around choice. The Husqvarna 562xp is a great little light weight saw that will flat out CUT, but it comes at a professional level price tag. I have a Stihl MS250 that others have recommended. It's fine…but not big enough for a big job and a little too big for detailed cutting on my carvings. It gets the least use of any in my stable.
 
budro2 said:
On tsi work I only use hack and squirt , very effective and not as labor intensive.
You can girdle a beech twice and still only have 50% success.

I just completed 190 ac and would never go back to using a chain saw

If you want some cover then hinge cut would help on that using a chainsaw
The year after doing hack and squirt more sunlight will hit the floor and you will see more oak regeneration
Click to expand...
Thanks, that's good info. I only made a quick walk through the hardwoods before pulling the trigger on this property. It was selective cut in 2010. From what I saw it's mostly Poplar. And yes I plan on doing mostly hacking squirt. But regardless of that I still need to buy a new chainsaw!
 
nwsg76 said:
Really think about how you are gonna use a chainsaw. Girdling a tree is just cutting into the bark about 2 inches. That doesn't take alot of saw. You want a very light saw to carry all day. Your swinging this saw above your waist and near your chest. You want 100% control.
If you are cutting down a tree for tsi...most likely the tree is not merchantable...so likely not a big diameter tree. Thus a light saw with a 16 in bar will likely do.
If your cutting down bigger trees for logs or firewood....that means a bigger saw. Think about it this way. Cutting down a tree is one cut. Cutting up a tree for firewood is 20 or more cuts.
My Tsi saw is a stihl 170. The only time my stihl 290 is used, is when its time to cut up a big red oak for firewood. But find what suits you and what you want it for.
Click to expand...
 

Latest posts

Back
Top