Chainsaw recommendation

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Thanks that's good info.
String Music said:
Stihl 180C-BE

I just spent two days doing TSI on my farm in Illinois and was impressed with this saw. It's light enough to work several hours and powerful enough to fell all but the biggest trees. I've used the 250 in the past but it wears you out after a couple hours.
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That's what I'm trying to avoid.
 
TNlandowner said:
I own and love my Jonsored CS2255. Here is a buying guide from Jonsored Chainsaws (Swedish Division of Husqvarna).

10 tips before buying a chainsaw


1. Safety is important. Make sure the saw has essential safety features such as kickback protection, chain brake, right hand guard and catcher stud.


2. Are both handles adequately protected from vibration? Vibration will quickly cause fatigue.


3. Choose a powerful enough saw right from the start. Many people buy an underpowered saw the first time.


4. Is the air filter system designed to avoid clogging with sawdust?


5. Is the saw easy to maintain? Is there a good user manual?


6. Will the saw run on unleaded petrol? Can you use vegetable-based chain oil?


7. Can the dealer service your saw? Do they have spare parts and accessories?


8. Can the dealer demonstrate the saw? Do they offer useful operating instructions on video and in brochures?


9. Can the dealer supply you with the necessary protective equipment?


10. Do you want to work indoors and outdoors? If so, buy a good electric saw that is built by professionals
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Thanks.
 
bigtex said:
I'm a chainsaw fanatic. I currently own and use 4 saws. An old Husky 51, Husky 455 Rancher, Husky 562XP and a Stihl MS250. The 51 is almost 20 years old and still runs well, the 455 I purchased in 2011 and it is starting to have problems. It probably needs a carb rebuild. I got the 462XP last year and it is a beast! I have no idea how old the MS250 is as I purchased it used. I don't think it has seen a lot of use by it's appearance.
I am a tree farmer and also burn firewood for my primary source of heat. Each saw has it's own intended purpose. For felling and bucking I grab the 455 or 562XP, for limbing and the smaller stuff my go-to saws are the 51 or MS250.
I couldn't imagine going into the woods with only one saw. I go prepared for the inevitable pinched bar, i've been sawing for more years than most on here are old but no matter how careful I am I still on a rare occasion pinch a bar.
Just yesterday I felled a "dead standing" red oak. It was an honest 33" on the but cut. I certainly appreciated the power of the Husky 562! I could of felled the tree with the MS250 or even the little 51 but it would of been very time consuming.
All of my saws were purchased new except the Stihl MS250. I purchased it from a member on here last year. It is also the saw with the most problems. Not blaming the seller as the saw ran great for the first couple of months, then it started acting up. Hard to start, when finally running would only run for a few minutes then shut down. After two attempts to clean and repair the carb I finally broke down and replaced the carb with a new one yesterday. So far so good, not had it in the woods yet so time will tell. When it runs it runs well. My biggest peave is it doesn't have compression relief nor a primer bulb. But so far with the new carb it usually starts on the 3rd pull.
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Thanks for that. When I get a better handle on what the situation is, I may have to buy more than one chainsaw as you say.
 
rifle02 said:
I am in the process of buying a piece of hunting property. I am looking forward to doing some TSI. The chainsaw that I currently own is just about shot. I think I will scrap it and start with a new one. I realize that a small and light chainsaw is more the order for girdling trees. I would like to find a happy medium one that is easy to handle and that won't wear me out doing that and also be able to cut firewood without being too small. Anyone have experience in this area? Any recommendations? Looking for a specific make and model. Thanks for any input.
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This is TNHunter2521…. if you need help with your property I would gladly offer my assistance to help you. I'm looking for property to hunt for this coming season because the lease we had got snatched out from under us.
 
a good sharp chain makes any saw easy to use, a poor chain makes any saw a pain. Chainsaw A has chains that cost twice as much as chainsaw B...pick B

I have Stihl's big and small, the chain is what makes them worth owning. If you can find a saw with chains that perform well and cost less, buy it.
 
gary66 said:
a good sharp chain makes any saw easy to use, a poor chain makes any saw a pain. Chainsaw A has chains that cost twice as much as chainsaw B...pick B

I have Stihl's big and small, the chain is what makes them worth owning. If you can find a saw with chains that perform well and cost less, buy it.
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Most chainsaws use Oregon chains, which are pretty good, though some are more aggressive and some have the reduced kickback feature. But having a sharp chain is paramount, so a sharpener is necessary. It's best to have one that you can use in the field, I have files and a couple electric options. One is from Granberg, which is pretty good, works with the chain on and runs off the 12V on the truck, but it's pricey and you also need a bar clamp which gets hammered into a stump. But I also have the Harbor Freight one, and I prefer it really, it's 120v, but the plug in the back of my Tacoma runs it fine. The chain needs to be removed off the bar, but I always carry a spare so when I need to sharpen one, I have a sharp one to replace it with if I am racing the sun.

PRECISION GRINDER (12V) – BAR-MOUNTED CHAIN SAW SHARPENER – G1012XT
s-l1600.jpg


Chainsaw Stump Vise
s-l400.jpg

Electric Chain Saw Sharpener
iu
 
rifle02 said:
I am in the process of buying a piece of hunting property. I am looking forward to doing some TSI. The chainsaw that I currently own is just about shot. I think I will scrap it and start with a new one. I realize that a small and light chainsaw is more the order for girdling trees. I would like to find a happy medium one that is easy to handle and that won't wear me out doing that and also be able to cut firewood without being too small. Anyone have experience in this area? Any recommendations? Looking for a specific make and model. Thanks for any input.
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Without a doubt the best route is a Stihl. Most tree cutters will agree!!
rifle02 said:
I am in the process of buying a piece of hunting property. I am looking forward to doing some TSI. The chainsaw that I currently own is just about shot. I think I will scrap it and start with a new one. I realize that a small and light chainsaw is more the order for girdling trees. I would like to find a happy medium one that is easy to handle and that won't wear me out doing that and also be able to cut firewood without being too small. Anyone have experience in this area? Any recommendations? Looking for a specific make and model. Thanks for any input.
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I would recommend a larger saw(60cc or bigger) just because the longer bar means you don't have to bend over as much.

I recently purchased a holzforma saw. Can't say anything about it yet, but price was right. Also I know it is made in china and I am supporting the enemy.
 
I use an Echo and it's been the best I've had. On a side note I had an old Stihl that was hard to start and ran awful but I burned off the carbon on the spark arrestor and it made a huge difference. I used a torch to burn off the carbon.
 
rifle02 said:
I only made a quick walk through the hardwoods before pulling the trigger on this property. It was selective cut in 2010. From what I saw it's mostly Poplar. And yes I plan on doing mostly hacking squirt. But regardless of that I still need to buy a new chainsaw!
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Poplar grows fast, especially after being released by a select cut. Take a few measurements each year and compare how fast these trees grow compared to oak & hickory trees.
 
diamond hunter said:
I just had a select cut done and Poplar was the species he wanted most right now.
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Well, I've already spoken with a Forester who will come and check the place out for me. Maybe there's some commercial value in that wood anyhow that I didn't expect.
 
Boll Weevil said:
I have 3 Stihl chainsaws: MS 271, 310, and 391 and wouldn't run any other brand. The bigger displacement saws are great for felling and bucking but they're heavy and will wear you out faster if you're walking. Consider what type of saw work you'll be doing, how big are the trees you're working in, and how much walking is involved.

Whatever brand you decide, get chaps and wear'em.
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I have a 391 I have used for years and have been very satisfied with it. I double endorse your chaps advice. And as someone who started way too late in life, always use hearing protection.
 
Stihl 261... It weighs 10.8lb and is 4hp. It looks to be the best weight with out sacrificing engine hp and has the compression release. It weighs less and has more power than the new or old farm boss that was always my pick.
 
Stihl, Echo, Dolmar, Husqvarna all good saws

Narrow it down to those with a dealer close to you that stocks parts and can service

After that it's a matter of personal preference (including size, weight, power, balance/feel, and price)
 
TX300mag said:
Stihl, Echo, Dolmar, Husqvarna all good saws

Narrow it down to those with a dealer close to you that stocks parts and can service

After that it's a matter of personal preference (including size, weight, power, balance/feel, and price)
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I recommend saving the money and having Tx300mag come do it for you.
 
DeerCamp said:
I recommend saving the money and having Tx300mag come do it for you.
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Actually I was gonna see if you could bring your 4-wheeler by one day and help me get some hickory out of the woods. 😁 Andrea can't do without hers while I'm gone and I better not try to get a truck up there.
 
TX300mag said:
Actually I was gonna see if you could bring your 4-wheeler by one day and help me get some hickory out of the woods. 😁 Andrea can't do without hers while I'm gone and I better not try to get a truck up there.
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Done!
 

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