Squash question

[Inkstainz]

Can anybody tell me what causes this? I pulled 5/6 off the vine that were like this.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[gtk]

blossom end rot

 

[DaveB]

Too wet, soil pH out of whack. Some different ideas on what causes it...imagine that...but calcium deficiency seems popular.

I don't know of a cure other than to get the soil right and don't overwater.

 

[MickThompson]

I've had a bunch of those and we are in a drought. I am chalking it up to water stress in my case.

 

[WTM]

:bash: i cant pull up the pic but if it is a pic of molded or rotting squash it usually means you either planted too many squash too close together where they cant get air flow or your plants are planted in a dead air space. squash need plenty of room and plenty of ventilation especially in hot humid weather. this high heat and humidity can be hard on some garden veggies.

edit: can see the pic now. one other thing is never overhead water in late evening. always early morning or early afternoon. if the water doesnt evaporate off the plants and doesnt have enough ventilation then you will get moldy squash.

 

[Inkstainz]

:bash: i cant pull up the pic but if it is a pic of molded or rotting squash it usually means you either planted too many squash too close together where they cant get air flow or your plants are planted in a dead air space. squash need plenty of room and plenty of ventilation especially in hot humid weather. this high heat and humidity can be hard on some garden veggies.

edit: can see the pic now. one other thing is never overhead water in late evening. always early morning or early afternoon. if the water doesnt evaporate off the plants and doesnt have enough ventilation then you will get moldy squash.

thanks everyone and WTM I believe you nailed it as I planted too many too close. I am gonna have to go bigger next year


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[WTM]

1 plant can get 3-4 ft in diameter. space plants at that if in rows. i plant mine in rows but i hill them. i start with 4 seeds spaced in a 2 ft long hill about 4 inches high. i space hills 4ft apart. when the seeds come up i thin to the 2 strongest plants and mulch with straw.(if you have a tendency to have a lot of squash bugs keep the straw 6 inches from the straw)

i also plant my rows so that the summers winds will go down the rows instead of across the rows. this will help keep the air between the rows and plants ventilated and help keep the wind from ripping them to shreds. keep the squash bugs picked off and a few plants will raise a bunch of squash.(keep picking them at 4-6 inches, if you stop the plant will stop)

you might try some fungicide to keep the bloom rot down so you can salvage some of your crop, thinning plants at that size would be risky.

 

[Mike Belt]

I've heard that in the case of a calcium deficiency when planting you can place a couple of Tum's tablets at the bottom of the planting hole. Anybody ever hear this?

 

[catman529]

Can also be poor pollination


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[WTM]

I've heard that in the case of a calcium deficiency when planting you can place a couple of Tum's tablets at the bottom of the planting hole. Anybody ever hear this?

i guess you could lol but not a rolaids. blossom end rot usually affects the fruit by cell collapse start where the blossom falls off. the biggest causes of blossom end rot are fertilizing with the wrong ratio NPK fertilizers, the wrong PH and watering unevenly, and of course proper ventilation.(which by the pic he posted appears to be more than end rot).

most people over fertilize with somehing like 13-13-13 for every thing, then they add more lime because they think they need it when they really dont. most garden vegetables grow best in slightly acidic soil, on average around 6.5 or so. some vegetables like squash, tomatoes and beans require less N than they do P and K.

when you get these conditions out of wack and too much N, the leaves grow too fast, while the roots grow too slow and the blooms cant uptake enough calcium and magnesium due to too high N and PH levels. that is when you get blossom end rot.

the quickest remedy, crushed gypsum and epsom salt but if the soil PH is still too high the plant cant uptake it properly. there is a spray version called blossom set that you can spray directly on the blossoms that some people have used as well.

 

[DaveB]

I don't think TUMS would work. test your soil and apply natural or chemical fertilizers to get to the correct nutrient levels.

Blossom Set is a product that is supposedly engineered to fit a given geography/temperature clime. I know it has been around for quite awhile but I still think it is witch doctor stuff. I always though it was for indoor and hydro facilities where you don't get enough natural pollinators or a cold snap ruins your blossom set.

 

[eightpointer]

I've heard that in the case of a calcium deficiency when planting you can place a couple of Tum's tablets at the bottom of the planting hole. Anybody ever hear this?

Ive heard of it. Also use some Epsom salt. That's what I use.

 

[Inkstainz]

Do you think I could save them by pulling up some of the plants?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[DaveB]

That will help.

Don't forget to avoid the topwatering if possible and do not over-water.

I would also give the epson salts trick a try, you want to eliminate the calcium angle.

Best of luck

 

[WTM]

Do you think I could save them by pulling up some of the plants?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

like dave said it will help especially if the plants are not in full sun for most of the day. i had one plant this year that had started that and i yanked it out of the garden. (i miscounted 4 on a hill). that is definately wet rot and not blossom end rot, and there is not much you can do except provide more ventilation and watch how you water. if it is wide spread then as soon as the fruit has formed then you can pull the blossom and get it out of the garden, ive done his and it helps. also to keep from overwatering, mulch around the plants. this will keep the soil and roots moist while protecting the blossoms from water vapor evaporation which will add to the humidity.

here is an ag article that explains how to plant and take care of squash,pull up the html version or pdf.

https://store.aces.edu/ItemDetail.aspx?ProductID=13753

 

[Inkstainz]

Do you think I could save them by pulling up some of the plants?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

like dave said it will help especially if the plants are not in full sun for most of the day. i had one plant this year that had started that and i yanked it out of the garden. (i miscounted 4 on a hill). that is definately wet rot and not blossom end rot, and there is not much you can do except provide more ventilation and watch how you water. if it is wide spread then as soon as the fruit has formed then you can pull the blossom and get it out of the garden, ive done his and it helps. also to keep from overwatering, mulch around the plants. this will keep the soil and roots moist while protecting the blossoms from water vapor evaporation which will add to the humidity.

here is an ag article that explains how to plant and take care of squash,pull up the html version or pdf.

https://store.aces.edu/ItemDetail.aspx?ProductID=13753

Well I haven't been doing much of any watering. Maybe 1/2 times a week. I've been letting Mother Nature take care of it which she was doing until the last two weeks.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[LA man]

Can also be poor pollination


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I agree with catman. I had the same thing going on in my greenhouse. We started useing a 1/8 inch paint brush and did the polinating ourselves and the problem went away

 

[Inkstainz]

So my squash is looking real bad and 2/3 of the plants have began turning brown and dying. Would it be too late to replant or is there something else I could plant in their place if I lose them all?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[MickThompson]

You're looking at ~60 days to harvest on squash so you still have plenty of time. I will be planting some more shortly behind my bush beans.

 

[WTM]

like mick said you got time, my straight necks come in at about 45 days. just try not to plant them in the same spot as the others if u can help it and in full sun will help with the wet rot. hopefully some less humid cooler temps are on the way at least until august.