Reloading question

Jcalder

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Re: Reloading question

You need to run your sizing die farther into your press. Raise the ram all the way and screw the die till it touches. Give it another half turn in from there.

It's fairly common that brass won't interchange as you've described. My experiences with my savages is they run tight. I loaded for a 700 once and it was loose.


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reloadxx

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Ok thanks I will try that when I get home right now I have the sizing die a quarter turn from touching the ram when it's all the way up.

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Hunter 257W

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Yep, the next move here is to turn the sizer die down a little at a time until you can chamber a case in the Savage. I'd go 1/8 turn at a time as Mr. Big suggested so that you don't over work the brass by moving the shoulder back more than necessary. Keep in mind that you may even end up with the die down beyond the point where it contacts the shell holder to do this. Most sizer die instructions even suggest doing that right out of the box but I don't unless it's required.
 

DaveB

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Re: Reloading question

Jcalder":1e3ug3xh said:
You need to run your sizing die farther into your press. Raise the ram all the way and screw the die till it touches. Give it another half turn in from there.


^^^^^^^^^^^THIS^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
 

reloadxx

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Re: Reloading question

Ok so I did what you all suggested moving the sizer down little at a time. IT worked I turned it a quarter turn at a time till it would chamber in the savage. Only one more question when I did as followed when it would fit in the savage it would put a dent in the neck of the brass every couple pieces of brass. Now this dent is coming out of my die nothing is in the die I have looked here is a picture what do you all think is it OK or what?
d4ee40621b0a0a4ec6e26c983ab39188.jpg


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Jcalder

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Re: Reloading question

reloadxx":2m87es0j said:
Ok so I did what you all suggested moving the sizer down little at a time. IT worked I turned it a quarter turn at a time till it would chamber in the savage. Only one more question when I did as followed when it would fit in the savage it would put a dent in the neck of the brass every couple pieces of brass. Now this dent is coming out of my die nothing is in the die I have looked here is a picture what do you all think is it OK or what?
d4ee40621b0a0a4ec6e26c983ab39188.jpg


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excess lube. Brass is fine and fireform out. Clean your dies good and back off on the lube a bit. Nothing. One of us haven't done lol


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Hunter 257W

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Yep, that dent is caused by excess lube. It's REAL easy to use a bit too much lube, and as JCalder said, it won't hurt anything. Firing will form the case back to chamber dimensions.

Glad you got it worked out. :)
 

DaveB

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Yes, excessive lube. And by excessive, it is about ant-piss in volume, this has haunted me for years. You are using a spray lube? I think they tend to magnify the problem.

I woul rather have the dents than a stuck case. So what I do is I have a box of 50 pieces of brass to size. I lube them. I full length size 2 then from another box of 50 not lubed I size one. Then back to the lub box and so on. Sometimes i do 3 lubed to 1 not lubed.

I never do a batch until every piece of brass for that caliber is ready for FL sizing. Yes, I have been called that name before, is okay.

Some dies have a pin-hole in the threads to allow excess lube to escape. It helps to keep that hole clean.
 

Jcalder

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Re: Reloading question

DaveB":qx6j25o1 said:
Some dies have a pin-hole in the threads to allow excess lube to escape. It helps to keep that hole clean.

I have this hole in a set and can't get it clean. Any tips. I've done everything short of drilling it back out


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reloadxx

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Re: Reloading question

DaveB":2b192bco said:
Yes, excessive lube. And by excessive, it is about ant-piss in volume, this has haunted me for years. You are using a spray lube? I think they tend to magnify the problem.

I woul rather have the dents than a stuck case. So what I do is I have a box of 50 pieces of brass to size. I lube them. I full length size 2 then from another box of 50 not lubed I size one. Then back to the lub box and so on. Sometimes i do 3 lubed to 1 not lubed.

I never do a batch until every piece of brass for that caliber is ready for FL sizing. Yes, I have been called that name before, is okay.

Some dies have a pin-hole in the threads to allow excess lube to escape. It helps to keep that hole clean.
I use the rcbs lube in a drip bottle

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Hunter 257W

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Re: Reloading question

Jcalder":2mbuu3zn said:
DaveB":2mbuu3zn said:
Some dies have a pin-hole in the threads to allow excess lube to escape. It helps to keep that hole clean.

I have this hole in a set and can't get it clean. Any tips. I've done everything short of drilling it back out


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This little carburetor tool is the best thing I've ever found for cleaning out tiny little holes. It will get the very smallest, itty-bitty, little air bleed holes in any carburetor I've worked on. I've never thought to use it on the bleed hole for dies before your post but I know it would work. The wires are a lot stiffer than any wire you can get anywhere else from my experience. Besides it is amazing how much better a lawnmower will run if you clean every passage when rebuilding it rather than ignoring the small holes you can't get to.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ptm-pp2453/overview/
 

Jcalder

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Re: Reloading question

Hunter 257W":37dcfhxx said:
Jcalder":37dcfhxx said:
DaveB":37dcfhxx said:
Some dies have a pin-hole in the threads to allow excess lube to escape. It helps to keep that hole clean.

I have this hole in a set and can't get it clean. Any tips. I've done everything short of drilling it back out


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This little carburetor tool is the best thing I've ever found for cleaning out tiny little holes. It will get the very smallest, itty-bitty, little air bleed holes in any carburetor I've worked on. I've never thought to use it on the bleed hole for dies before your post but I know it would work. The wires are a lot stiffer than any wire you can get anywhere else from my experience. Besides it is amazing how much better a lawnmower will run if you clean every passage when rebuilding it rather than ignoring the small holes you can't get to.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ptm-pp2453/overview/
thanks. I have a small pick thing that I tried to use. It broke most of the crud up but wouldn't stay clean.

I did learn my lesson on buying used dies. Shoulda spent the extra money and just bought new. I've done a ton of cleaning and altering


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DaveB

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I used to soak the die in #9. Then I used a piece of copper wire that worked well but you needed more patience than I owned. Then, and for a long time, I used a sonic cleaner followed by plenty of compressed air to get things dry. This is the solution but of course you need to be careful with water or the die will rust. I took the sonic cleaner out on the back porch and used #9......it worked, no fire. Wife was somewhat upset and my boys were wanting to place wagers it would light off.

Compressed air, by itself, will do okay.......I am also wondering if I went back to water and compressed air followed by some time in a dehydrator would work.

You cannot get distracted when using water, the die will rust.
 

TiminTN

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Like mr.big suggested keep turning the FL die down 1/8th turn till the case fits the Savage. It has a few thousands less headspace than the Remington. Something to remember, when the bolt is tight all the way from top to bottom it is excessive headspace, turn that die and problem will go away.
 

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