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Novice Reloader - Need advice on complete reloading set to start with for rifle.

billyboy

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Depending on what you are loading, some kits include "stuff" you may or may not need. Good digital scales are a must. A decent micrometer is also very useful. With pistol rounds I have found that it's better to trim every new case to exactly the same length so that the crimp is consistent. Greatly improved accuracy in my 44MAG.
 

DaveB

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This is in my experience.....
The one shot case lube...you spray you best be sizing. Don't lube more than say 20 at a time. It dries before you get to it a great deal of the lube ability is gone. Translates into stuck cases. You will get a lot of recommendations for Imperial sizing wax.

You need a micrometer...how you gonna measure if a bullet is seated to correct depth? Harbor freight. get a dial not a digital readout if possible.

You have a known weight you can use to calibrate that scale? Can someone chime in on how to do this with digital tools? Here found them https://www.walmart.com/ip/HERCHR-5...VrfvjBx3I7giLEAQYAyABEgIOlfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
 

Omega

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This is in my experience.....
The one shot case lube...you spray you best be sizing. Don't lube more than say 20 at a time. It dries before you get to it a great deal of the lube ability is gone. Translates into stuck cases. You will get a lot of recommendations for Imperial sizing wax.

You need a micrometer...how you gonna measure if a bullet is seated to correct depth? Harbor freight. get a dial not a digital readout if possible.

You have a known weight you can use to calibrate that scale? Can someone chime in on how to do this with digital tools? Here found them https://www.walmart.com/ip/HERCHR-5...VrfvjBx3I7giLEAQYAyABEgIOlfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
I use the spray sometimes but have mostly gone to Imperial sizing wax for my rifle cases (bottle neck), and make sure my pistol dies (for straight wall) are carbide so no lube is necessary, but do spray once in awhile when they are harder to size.

A little goes a long way,
Imperial Case Sizing Wax

You want the weights in grains, not grams, they have gone up considerably since I got a set though. Many scales come with at least one check weight, just to get an idea of how accurate it remains.

RCBS
SCALE CHECK WEIGHTS STANDARD

Lyman Reloading Scale Weight Check Set
 

Steverino

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Giles Co
This is in my experience.....
The one shot case lube...you spray you best be sizing. Don't lube more than say 20 at a time. It dries before you get to it a great deal of the lube ability is gone. Translates into stuck cases. You will get a lot of recommendations for Imperial sizing wax.

You need a micrometer...how you gonna measure if a bullet is seated to correct depth? Harbor freight. get a dial not a digital readout if possible.

You have a known weight you can use to calibrate that scale? Can someone chime in on how to do this with digital tools? Here found them https://www.walmart.com/ip/HERCHR-5...VrfvjBx3I7giLEAQYAyABEgIOlfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

OK bought the gram weights before I saw the post from Omega however there are web pages that'll do the conversion from grams to grains but they aren't expensive so I'll find some use for them - I am a pack rat. Only if its critical I need grains and if that scale measures in grains. It may be in oz. I'll know when I get the kit which has been postponed until tomorrow by Fedex.

I'll use the One Shot to start - only plan to load 20 and under initially to see what works best for the Henry. The Vaquero will have to make due with what I load for the Henry - I rarely shoot the Vaquero but its a sweet gun.

Which Caliper - fractions or plain dial caliper?

Thanks for the help.
 

backyardtndeer

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West Tennessee
The one shot case lube...you spray you best be sizing. Don't lube more than say 20 at a time. It dries before you get to it a great deal of the lube ability is gone.
Been using one shot for as long as I have been reloading without any issues, other than one stuck case that really was my fault. I usually spray my brass in a sandwich bag.
You have a known weight you can use to calibrate that scale? Can someone chime in on how to do this with digital tools?
The digital scale in the hornady kit should come with a check weight and it will have instructions for calibration. Mine did. I ended up buying a better lyman digital scale later on.
 

Omega

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OK bought the gram weights before I saw the post from Omega however there are web pages that'll do the conversion from grams to grains but they aren't expensive so I'll find some use for them - I am a pack rat. Only if its critical I need grains and if that scale measures in grains. It may be in oz. I'll know when I get the kit which has been postponed until tomorrow by Fedex.

I'll use the One Shot to start - only plan to load 20 and under initially to see what works best for the Henry. The Vaquero will have to make due with what I load for the Henry - I rarely shoot the Vaquero but its a sweet gun.

Which Caliper - fractions or plain dial caliper?

Thanks for the help.
It's not the conversion. With the check weights in grains, specially the 1 grain, you can check that the scale increases by the weight of the check weight you set on the scale. It is worthless to go from say 5 grams (77.16 grains), the smallest in that set, to 15 grams (231.49) (adding the next smallest) when many loads are under the 5 gram weight.

As to the calipers, I am using the Harbor Freight digital ones that go from metric to standard. Those you just have to make sure you get repeatable measurements, and every now and then check a known size to check for accuracy. Since we are just reloading and not machining (unless you are doing that too), they are good enough.
 

Hunter 257W

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I've never used any case lube other than RCBS and it works for me. I started loading as a kid using money I begged from my Father so I used the cheapest dies available, meaning non-carbide sizers. After I got money I allowed myself the luxury of carbide sizer dies for straight wall cases. It IS worth the extra cost to not have to bother with lubing, and wiping lube.

I'd consider the check weights that come with a scale to be adequate myself. If they come with two weights and the scale will read the expected value for each weight then it should be good for any reading between those two values. I've never used an electronic scale myself having only balance beam scales. The balance beams scales are great and repeatable for weighing powder but are less than ideal for weighing an unknown object such as a recovered bullet to determine retained weight. Which is best depends on what you want to do with it.
 

Omega

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I've never used any case lube other than RCBS and it works for me. I started loading as a kid using money I begged from my Father so I used the cheapest dies available, meaning non-carbide sizers. After I got money I allowed myself the luxury of carbide sizer dies for straight wall cases. It IS worth the extra cost to not have to bother with lubing, and wiping lube.

I'd consider the check weights that come with a scale to be adequate myself. If they come with two weights and the scale will read the expected value for each weight then it should be good for any reading between those two values. I've never used an electronic scale myself having only balance beam scales. The balance beams scales are great and repeatable for weighing powder but are less than ideal for weighing an unknown object such as a recovered bullet to determine retained weight. Which is best depends on what you want to do with it.
Yea, I guess it should have been mentioned, check weights are more beneficial to the electronic scales. The built in settings on a beam scale along with the included check weight does work well to make sure you are getting a good reading. Also, you can use two scales to measure the same objects, if the object weights match then it means both are well calibrated, if not, the known weight should tell you which is off.
As to lube, I still remember using a homemade lube with lanolin and alcohol, it worked pretty good, but at that time my only bottleneck case was my .270. For 5.56/.223, the only case I ever stuck, you need something better IMO, and the modern lubes do ok, though the imperial seems to work the best.
 

Hunter 257W

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I've heard of Imperial for years of course but bought several bottles of the RCBS back when it was in the toothpaste style containers, then when that ran low got several of the current bottle type containers. If I ever run low on it again and think of it in time I'd like to try Imperial because I've never heard anything but good things about it.
 

MUP

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I've yet to stick a case using Imperial wax. Stuck a .223 case using one shot, once, that was enough for me to look for something else.
 

billyboy

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Knoxville
I use Hornady One Shot when neck sizing, but Imperial wax when Full Length sizing. Never had any trouble.
 

Omega

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I've yet to stick a case using Imperial wax. Stuck a .223 case using one shot, once, that was enough for me to look for something else.
I've used Lee dies and shell holders for years, but when I started sticking 300BLK and .177 WLV, both based off the 5.56 case, it became apparent that the Lee shell holder was too loose. I switched to RCBS shell holders and I haven't stuck one since. I think it's because the 5.56 case doesn't have much of a rim. First couple times, yea stuck a few, it was with One Shot, the last one was with Imperial, but I also may not have lubed it right on that one. The neck expander may have also played a part, as I didn't use graphite as I normally do for my larger cases.
 

Steverino

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Giles Co
Do ya'll remember Christmas morning when you got the best presents the next day (or some cases all the presents) and you got this big box with all kinds of stuff in it. I remember the Chemistry set I got and various components in the box and the reloader is packed in that big box which the picture cover as seen on this thread comes off that way. The back is plain cardboard and the picture is the front. I was flooded with those Christmas memories. I'm using a method by the owner of Redding who built his loading table out of a portable work table. I ordered one and will be making the loading table out of it like he did. . Will be working on this next week - I have to clean up my shop a bit its getting like a pack rat's jungle in there.

 

Snowwolfe

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I dont have any experience with a portable bench as you described. But not sure how happy you will be with it in the years to come. Resizing take muscle and this muscle can lift up the rear of a lighter bench. In addition, the weight of the press hanging off the front of the bench has to be countered with weight in the rear. Heavy and sturdy is your friend when it comes to a good bench.
 

Steverino

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Right however it was Mr Sharpless who designed it and he does own a company that makes presses and all that stuff.. The table is rated for 500lbs. We'll see. Its not like I'm spending thousands on it or even hundreds. I already have the plywood and if one side lifted you bolt the thing on a sheet of thick plywood so your sitting on it - its not going anywhere then. But my bet is he hasn't had to do that. Only one way to know for sure. He also says that the press is mounted in between the two from feet adding to stability. I think this was engineered carefully and not just hacked.
 

DaveB

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Hmmm. Open a 100 count container of primers. Leave them open but in the container on your bench while you full length size say 30 of your largest calilber brass.

Are those primers dancing in their container? Leaving their assigned spot? Does the press upstroke cause them to rattle?
"
Heavy and sturdy is your friend when it comes to a good bench.
"

Picture an 8 foot desktop 24 inches wide (minimum) on 2x4 legs every 32 inch broadside to the studs lag bolted at top middle and 12 inch off ground cross braced about 12 inches off the ground with a shelf wide enough on which to stack heavy objects, like cases of shotgun shells for doves, 20,000 22LR, or anything compact and dense. Heavy and sturdy. Tilt your bench top mebbe 1/4 inch higher in front than the rear so things do not roll off.
 

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