Dunstan Chestnut Trees

[Brian P.]

Good for you ! Man that is just awesome good…, and i wish i was also..but my time is a coming..anyways, best to you in that. !

p.s. dis you know there are three types of blueberries ? and they all ripen at different times ? some early, some medium, and some later ? that is what i believe i learned to be truth.

 

[Brian P.]

p.s. dis you know there are three types of blueberries ? and they all ripen at different times ? some early, some medium, and some later ? that is what i believe i learned to be truth.

either way planting a blueberry bush is just a wonderful thing..such excellent fruits ! my goodness. we love them here and eatnlots fresh and freeze others in bulk

 

[Brian P.]

either way planting a blueberry bush is just a wonderful thing..such excellent fruits ! my goodness. we love them here and eatnlots fresh and freeze others in bulk

on youtube, i watch a lot of videos of folks from Ajerbajon, Ukerain, and thereabouts, that utilize fruits in wonderful, traditional ways..you can see them do it, they film a lot of this now, and they use persimmons a lot…check it out sometime if you wish pretty cool this old traditional wisdom that people still have there. think they dry them, jar them, and use them in all kinds of wonderful ways and in dishes, etc. and store them for future often without refrigeration too

 

[JCDEERMAN]

p.s. dis you know there are three types of blueberries ? and they all ripen at different times ? some early, some medium, and some later ? that is what i believe i learned to be truth.

I wish I knew the variety of the one bush we have (it came free with some mushrooms my dad ordered and planted). We have a clearing we were thinking about planting this one and others. Now, knowing what you mentioned of the early/mid/late varieties, we may get 2 early / 2 mid / and 2 late and create a little grove of them

 

[Brian P.]

I wish I knew the variety of the one bush we have (it came free with some mushrooms my dad ordered and planted). We have a clearing we were thinking about planting this one and others. Now, knowing what you mentioned of the early/mid/late varieties, we may get 2 early / 2 mid / and 2 late and create a little grove of them

good for you . hope it is a success. nothing like fresh blueberries , lots of them, and as long through the season as possible. ive planted a dozen of them, but with no success yet..believe i put them in soils that were just too dry, best i can figure from all ive researched and asked growers that are successful, like blueberry farmers..gonna donit again, soon i hope. but luckily we have three excellwnt farms of them within 5 miles of me here in centralMichigan….and they all have really good berries..one farm has been there since about 1960…another 1950's.. excellent fruit.

 

[Brian P.]

good for you . hope it is a success. nothing like fresh blueberries , lots of them, and as long through the season as possible. ive planted a dozen of them, but with no success yet..believe i put them in soils that were just too dry, best i can figure from all ive researched and asked growers that are successful, like blueberry farmers..gonna donit again, soon i hope. but luckily we have three excellwnt farms of them within 5 miles of me here in centralMichigan….and they all have really good berries..one farm has been there since about 1960…another 1950's.. excellent fruit.

yeah, its good to have them early through late for sure…

 

[Iglow]

I've got a friend that planted some years ago and after eating some of the chestnuts I'll be fighting any critters for them from now on. They are delicious.

 

[Terrier]

I planted 4 Chestnut tree about 8 years ago and put 5' grow tubes on them. They were doing fine and grew pretty tall out of the tubes, but were pretty thin. I took the tubes off after two years. Big mistake. The wind broke three of them off about a foot off the ground.

I replanted the three, and that fall a buck girdled the fourth all the way around. That's when I staked a 3' round piece of 2x4 wire around each tree. Occasional bug spray has kept the bugs off and mimimal deer damage since. I had a huge Japanese beetle problem when I first moved here in 2014, but I applied Milky Spoor powder over a wide area of my property several years ago and they've all but disappeared.

I've neglected the trees somewhat since, but the girdled tree re-sprouted from below the girdle and is three times bigger than the three that were replanted. In hindsight, I should have just left the three broken ones in place and let them re-sprout. No nuts yet. Gonna mulch soon and fertilize in March or April.

 

[WanderingNomad]

i have had similar success too with decidous trees. you o have to start with hign quality root stocks, and they have to have roots at lesst 10-12" long, i prefer 18" and i trim them back some to even up..the starggling roots…but you have to get below that deadly heat zone, well below 6"" and then do the rest properly…and mulch heavy..and wide…its really that simple..but most folks follow what they see and make the same mistakes over snd over again..i lesrned this wisdom from the folks at Cold Stream Tree Farm here in Michigan…after years of making the same mistakes. can not assume that tree planting instructions are valid..esp. from folks selling trees..like the county agency and so forth..people just share the same old bad information as gospel and it aint…deeply planted roots, planted properly, from good, live healthy stocks, kept cool and moist, watered in good, and with a minimum of deep heavy mulch about at least 6-8' in diameter, then watered in for a year ir two..meaning, keeping them watered " enough" but especially when temps get above 85degrees…even a living tree thats been in ground a year..or two even, if not mulched will be under much stress at that temp..and need a heavy watering twice a week or so..but if its mulched in good you can dig down andfeel the soil temps and moisture and tou will see the diffreence, esp. if out in full sun…mulch makes that bignof a difference..justnlike in the woods, again, just see thst..and remember there is shade in there too and its much cooler…that is where these chestnut trees grow naturally..but we out them out in full hot sun without any mulch around them, for both nutrients and heat and moisture protection…so dont do that…go dig the soil in the woods..it will be cool, somewhat damp and full of composted dead organic material..and thats whatbthese ramiel wood chips do..they mimic the process of leaves dropping, every year, feeding the living creatures such as bacterias and fungis, others, in the soil which in turn feed the trees..thatnis how it works..that is the process of " fertalization" so to say..dead organic material being eaten by living soil creatures is just that..and thsts where all the leaves go every year..they get eaten up..ever wonder why there isnt ten feet of dead leaves in the forest ? thats why..so there is your " fertalizer"..so just kkep a heavy layer of these ramiel chips on, and in a diameter at leat 10' prefersbly 30' in diameter around the trees and then no fertalizer needed, and the rsin will do the rest…you do need to water the first and maybe eben second year though for best results..but not beyond…that, folks is how God designed things to grow in this esrth, all on its own..even as the animals come along and nibble the tops off..which again is acyaully,good for them. have a nice day everyone !

Do you use hardwood or pine mulch please?

 

[Brian P.]

Do you use hardwood or pine mulch please?

both. it matters not. dont listen to online people tell you so. have seen over 50 years of experience and my own also. just make sure the chips are ground up limbs under 6" diameter off living trees..that is what you can get free from tree service guys..its a by
product…but sometimes they gring up dead stuff which you dont want..and sometimes they have big grinders that grind up 20" diameter stuff and tou dont get enough greens in it, too much browns or cellulose..you need some nitrogen , so just get chips from a local tree guy that grinds his limbs..just ask whats on board..was the tree live ? and thats all you need to know..pine, maple, walnut..it matters NOT..you can trust that, but too many youtubers have started this lie about certain species, etc. not being any good…its a total lie and i suspect thats where you found it, by looking on google..i get my chips in mid summer when the leaves are full on the limbs ..that way there is a lot of green or nitrogen on them..these are properly named Ramiel wood chips, but most folks have no clue about that name..anyways, just get some good chips, and pile them thick and far out from the tree, as roots grow about 30' in every direction…this will make the soils fertile, keep soils both moist and cool, and suppress weeds..which really isnt that big of a deal anyways, but heat protection is..and keeping the soil moist when it rains is also..too many folks llant trees out in a yard and mow right up to it, and its like a desert there…but with a heavy applicatuon of ramiel chips, between 6"-12" deep, and 30' in diameter, or as big as you can make it, will truly give tour trees the bst they can get..also, pruning is huge also..all trees respond to priuning extremely well..its natures own way to stimulate roots, as deer trim the tops, and this stimulates roots to grow faster..so prune the tree when you plant it, cut about 1/3 off the main leader..i know people think not but knowledgable folks from tree nurseries know..and others…and water them in the first year, maybe even two..that means water it in good when planted..then water it once a week or so, and whenever it gets above 85 degrees give it 5-10 gallons twice a week..but have the chip mulch in place..dont have to go crazy on the water..esp. if you have chips..because once it takes hold and gets some roots out the rain will do the rest..remember these chestnuts grow in the middle of forests naturally. not out in open fields..ao full sun is not really thier natural place…and thats why they can get stressed out there in the sun and heat, especially without deep mulch to protect the tender growing roots..also, roots grow out, not down…95% of the roots from a tree are growing in the top 18" of soil - OUTWARDS..
there can be a tap root or more going down to anchor the tree but the roots that feed the tree grow in that top 18" out like a huge spider web..waiting to suck up any little bit of rain quickly and totally..and nutrients also..trees are all anout the roots.and thats why to prune the main leader when you plant..to stimulate these roots..you can literally cut the whole leader off but a stub, and that tree will still grow..keep that in mind, but make the soil fertile by covering it with deep organice dead materials, preferbaly ramiel wood chips, next would be 24" of dead leaves..but these get eaten up too fast, and onlymlast a year or so, thats why you use chips, they will last 5-7 years first application..second application will last 10-15 years or more before they get esten up by the soil microbes, whcih, make fertile soil..that process IS what makes soil fertile..go look in the woods..ever see anyone applying fertalizer there ? no. because dead leaves and wood drop each year and lay on top of the soils…and get eaten up..so we are mimicking that by adding chips that last a long time..it does the very same thing and more.they give heat protection that the shade in the woods give naturally. so do it and go sit back and enjoy your trees . they will thank you for it.Nd you can just go relax and watch them grow in good health

 

[Brian P.]

both. it matters not. dont listen to online people tell you so. have seen over 50 years of experience and my own also. just make sure the chips are ground up limbs under 6" diameter off living trees..that is what you can get free from tree service guys..its a by
product…but sometimes they gring up dead stuff which you dont want..and sometimes they have big grinders that grind up 20" diameter stuff and tou dont get enough greens in it, too much browns or cellulose..you need some nitrogen , so just get chips from a local tree guy that grinds his limbs..just ask whats on board..was the tree live ? and thats all you need to know..pine, maple, walnut..it matters NOT..you can trust that, but too many youtubers have started this lie about certain species, etc. not being any good…its a total lie and i suspect thats where you found it, by looking on google..i get my chips in mid summer when the leaves are full on the limbs ..that way there is a lot of green or nitrogen on them..these are properly named Ramiel wood chips, but most folks have no clue about that name..anyways, just get some good chips, and pile them thick and far out from the tree, as roots grow about 30' in every direction…this will make the soils fertile, keep soils both moist and cool, and suppress weeds..which really isnt that big of a deal anyways, but heat protection is..and keeping the soil moist when it rains is also..too many folks llant trees out in a yard and mow right up to it, and its like a desert there…but with a heavy applicatuon of ramiel chips, between 6"-12" deep, and 30' in diameter, or as big as you can make it, will truly give tour trees the bst they can get..also, pruning is huge also..all trees respond to priuning extremely well..its natures own way to stimulate roots, as deer trim the tops, and this stimulates roots to grow faster..so prune the tree when you plant it, cut about 1/3 off the main leader..i know people think not but knowledgable folks from tree nurseries know..and others…and water them in the first year, maybe even two..that means water it in good when planted..then water it once a week or so, and whenever it gets above 85 degrees give it 5-10 gallons twice a week..but have the chip mulch in place..dont have to go crazy on the water..esp. if you have chips..because once it takes hold and gets some roots out the rain will do the rest..remember these chestnuts grow in the middle of forests naturally. not out in open fields..ao full sun is not really thier natural place…and thats why they can get stressed out there in the sun and heat, especially without deep mulch to protect the tender growing roots..also, roots grow out, not down…95% of the roots from a tree are growing in the top 18" of soil - OUTWARDS..
there can be a tap root or more going down to anchor the tree but the roots that feed the tree grow in that top 18" out like a huge spider web..waiting to suck up any little bit of rain quickly and totally..and nutrients also..trees are all anout the roots.and thats why to prune the main leader when you plant..to stimulate these roots..you can literally cut the whole leader off but a stub, and that tree will still grow..keep that in mind, but make the soil fertile by covering it with deep organice dead materials, preferbaly ramiel wood chips, next would be 24" of dead leaves..but these get eaten up too fast, and onlymlast a year or so, thats why you use chips, they will last 5-7 years first application..second application will last 10-15 years or more before they get esten up by the soil microbes, whcih, make fertile soil..that process IS what makes soil fertile..go look in the woods..ever see anyone applying fertalizer there ? no. because dead leaves and wood drop each year and lay on top of the soils…and get eaten up..so we are mimicking that by adding chips that last a long time..it does the very same thing and more.they give heat protection that the shade in the woods give naturally. so do it and go sit back and enjoy your trees . they will thank you for it.Nd you can just go relax and watch them grow in good health

WARNING - Do NOT buy wood chips from a store, landscape supply or in bags- read below..to see why..
another reason we use wood chips is they last and stay anchored and dont blow away also..lastly, never buy your wood chips from a store or landscape supply, etc. or stone yard place…those chips are NOT from living trees and are pure wood, cellouse, and have zero notrogen, worse they are made sterile using chemicals, dyes, and sometimes even herbacides or insectacides..and they cost money too…ramiel chips from tree service folks come free..you see a guy cutting and gring limbs nesr you just stop and ask if he will deliver them to your place, and they will..they have to truck them away and it costs them fuel and time..so they are happy to get a place nearby to dump them. ive been dojng this for many years both for my gardens and trees..its wonderful.. i always have a coupld piles of chips on hand composting away around here. i even put them down to make nice trails..

 

[mcbuck58]

I grow Dunstan chestnut trees from nuts. Have four orchards with about 300 trees from 2 to 8 years old. Also have another 60 wildlife fruit trees. Persimmon, wild crab apple, Mexican plum and deer pear. Here are this years seedlings that I took out of cold stratification March 4th. Out of 360 nuts have 328 trees. They are leaning right cause they grow towards the light and I just turned the trays. Usually turn them every two days but was away for four days .

Last years seedlings July and then October.

 

[DoubleRidge]

I grow Dunstan chestnut trees from nuts. Have four orchards with about 300 trees from 2 to 8 years old. Also have another 60 wildlife fruit trees. Persimmon, wild crab apple, Mexican plum and deer pear. Here are this years seedlings that I took out of cold stratification March 4th. Out of 360 nuts have 328 trees. They are leaning right cause they grow towards the light and I just turned the trays. Usually turn them every two days but was away for four days .

View attachment 221332View attachment 221333

Last years seedlings July and then October.



View attachment 221334View attachment 221335

Very nice set up...Thanks for sharing!

Few questions:

How do you store your chesnuts during the stratification period? I asked because I stored some this year in slightly damp peat moss and had a few develop a white mold.

Then...In your October pics...do you have issues with the tap root circling the pot? I've never tried it but I have some persimmon, sawtooth and chestnut in a few air prune beds and I'm curious about root development.

Lastly...do you harvest your own chesnuts to plant or do you order new ones each year? If you order, which supplier do you use?

 

[mcbuck58]

Very nice set up...Thanks for sharing!

Few questions:

How do you store your chesnuts during the stratification period? I asked because I stored some this year in slightly damp peat moss and had a few develop a white mold.

Then...In your October pics...do you have issues with the tap root circling the pot? I've never tried it but I have some persimmon, sawtooth and chestnut in a few air prune beds and I'm curious about root development.

Lastly...do you harvest your own chesnuts to plant or do you order new ones each year? If you order, which supplier do you use?

First question.
I use Baccto potting soil. Damp but not soaking wet. Usually have 2 or 3 mold but this year not one molded. In container about 1" of soil. I put 40 nuts per container. Cover with 1" of soil. Holes in container lid. Put in dedicated fridge with temperature 34 to 36 degrees. Stratify from mid October to end of February.

 

[mcbuck58]

Very nice set up...Thanks for sharing!

Few questions:

How do you store your chesnuts during the stratification period? I asked because I stored some this year in slightly damp peat moss and had a few develop a white mold.

Then...In your October pics...do you have issues with the tap root circling the pot? I've never tried it but I have some persimmon, sawtooth and chestnut in a few air prune beds and I'm curious about root development.

Lastly...do you harvest your own chesnuts to plant or do you order new ones each year? If you order, which supplier do you use?

Second question.
I use special pots that are ribbed and air prune the roots. No circling of roots at all.
Roots after one month of growth in my house during March.

Roots in September.

Third question.
I harvest my own nuts. If you are looking for nuts to eat or plant ( there is a difference) buy from Chestnut Ridge of Pike County. They are located in Illinois. They are a 30 year old orchard that was grown from Dunstan chestnut trees from Chestnut Hill nursery in Florida.

 

[Bucket]

Fascinating stuff @mcbuck58 !

 

[DoubleRidge]

Second question.
I use special pots that are ribbed and air prune the roots. No circling of roots at all.
Roots after one month of growth in my house during March.

View attachment 221369Roots in September.

View attachment 221371View attachment 221372
Third question.
I harvest my own nuts. If you are looking for nuts to eat or plant ( there is a difference) buy from Chestnut Ridge of Pike County. They are located in Illinois. They are a 30 year old orchard that was grown from Dunstan chestnut trees from Chestnut Hill nursery in Florida.

Thanks! Appreciate the detailed explanation!
One opportunity for improvement I see is to drill air holes in my container lids like I see you have done. Ive been leaving lid cracked open but have noticed some condensation on the inside of lid. This likely contributed to the mold I saw. I've heard of chestnut ridge in pike county but have never purchased from them. Thanks again for the information. Appreciate it!

 

[mcbuck58]

Fascinating stuff @mcbuck58 !

Thank you sir

 

[JCDEERMAN]

Second question.
I use special pots that are ribbed and air prune the roots. No circling of roots at all.
Roots after one month of growth in my house during March.

View attachment 221369Roots in September.

View attachment 221371View attachment 221372
Third question.
I harvest my own nuts. If you are looking for nuts to eat or plant ( there is a difference) buy from Chestnut Ridge of Pike County. They are located in Illinois. They are a 30 year old orchard that was grown from Dunstan chestnut trees from Chestnut Hill nursery in Florida.

That is really cool stuff!!! I tried this one time and set them outside and the squirrels got all of them dug out.

I planted 7 bare root chestnuts from Whitetail Hill earlier this spring. Hoping they take off. I'd like to do this and get more planted

 

[mcbuck58]

Thanks! Appreciate the detailed explanation!
One opportunity for improvement I see is to drill air holes in my container lids like I see you have done. Ive been leaving lid cracked open but have noticed some condensation on the inside of lid. This likely contributed to the mold I saw. I've heard of chestnut ridge in pike county but have never purchased from them. Thanks again for the information. Appreciate it!

I still get a little condensation under the lid even with the holes. I think that is good to keep moist. I used peet moss many years ago and had a lot of mold. Out of 200 to 300 nuts I usually have 3 to 5 mold. Last stratification period was unusual with no mold at all. Your welcome.