Gobble4me757
Well-Known Member
Just wish they would answer the phone…lol I don't want to drive an hour from here in Jackson for nothing
Dunstan Chestnut Trees
- Thread starter DoubleRidge
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Bgoodman30
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Has anyone seen these at wally world yet?
The Dayton store has them in stock. I bought four 3 gal pots yesterday.
deerdills
Well-Known Member
What does that size cost?
35.00 and 7 gal was around 49.00.
I was going to add a few trees this fall but with the drought I am thankful I didn't even try.
Brian P.
Member
dont worry if the deer pruned them down, that actually stimulates the roots..wild trees get pruned all the time, and they continue togrow. one thing to do os to apply a heavy layer of wood chips from the local tree trimmer guys, ( they dump them free, just get them in summer when leaves are on ) about 1-11/2 foot deep around the trees and out about 20' in all directions. or as far as you can, at least @0' from the base in a circle. this will feed the trees and keep them moist just like in the woods where they grow naturally, in shade. chestnuts were a tree that grew right in the woods, and had lots of natural mulch around them from leaves dropping..so tree removal guys gring up small diameter limbs which make perfect compost and high nutrient food for the soils..believe me, your trees will do absolutely great..for years..this mulch will,last for several years, maybe 5-7 before adding anymore…you will need no fertalizers or supplimental watering , but do keep them watered for the first year or two, but after that the wood chips will do the rest and make your soils perfectly nutritious and perfectly moist and cool,,just like the Lord did in the woods ! where everything grows perfectly, even amongst other trees and shade ! this you can trust.I have 13 Dunstan's I planted in the fall of 2019. I highly recommend the growth tubes. My tubes are 4 ft tall, and up until this spring made it easy to drop a frost cloth over the trees during early and late frosts and freezes, but now the trees are too tall. I found a really good breathable frost cloth and left them on the growth tubes the entire first winter for extra protection…worked out great! I work hard on weed control and keeping them watered during extended dry periods. They don't recommend adding fertilizer the first year, so this being my second year I've started fertilizing and it's definitely showing. Keep an eye out for those Japanese beetles. Last year they covered up one of my trees and ate all the leaves off that one before I seen them. The tree is doing fine this year, but it definitely stunted the growth last year compared to the others. I now spray them with Seven Dust twice in the spring and that's working great. In the fall last year the deer ate all the leaves off what they could reach above the growth tubes. No damage done but I'd just rather they didn't do that. Well, literally yesterday I was doing my weekly check and now have a new problem. The deer ate one of my trees down all the way to the top of the growth tube…limbs and all. This is not good. I'm looking for an extension I can add to the top of the growth tubes that will add another 12" or so before they damage anymore trees. I know a cage would solve this problem, but the cage keeps me from being able to closely examine the trees and do other things more easily. So, anyone not using cages, just be aware deer will completely chew down an entire tree! At least the growth tube kept the bottom 4 ft intact, and that tree was about 7 ft tall. I mean heck…there's a one acre clover patch right next to my trees. If they don't behave I'll take away their clover patch!
Brian P.
Member
honestly, deer prune small seedlings all the time in the wild. and they grow. i dont believe any tree gets away from deer honestly. its. the Lords way of stimulating roots to grow more, because that is true ! so dont worry..pruning a tree is anout the best thingnone can do for them, in truth. a friend of mine owns Wildtype Native Nursery, in Mason. he tells me often to prune the stems down 1/3 - to 1/2. when implant anyways.
Brian P.
Member
another good mulch is pile up leaves about 2-3' deep around the trees till you can het some wood chips from the local tree guys…old composted leaves are best..pile it deep. theynwill,love you for it ! you want cool and moist soils for the roots, not a barren hot desert…and heavy compost keeps soils cool and thats one of the most important things, because if it gets 85-90 in a heat spell, that temp goes down 4-5" deep and thats what kills more tree seedlings than people know. heat is very hard on new seedlings with shallow roots. heat can kill trees even if theynare watered . thats true..i,learned this after planting literally thousand sof trees in mymlifetime, with often poor success. once imlearned these things imtold you, my success ratenis up around 90% and better now.lastly, always get trees with roots that are at least 12" long..that way they can get a lot of roots below that dangerous 4-6 " depth where heat can kill them.
Bgoodman30
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Well how did they do?
Brian P.
Member
the trees i planted when i first learned this, were 40 out of 40, meaning 40 planted and 40 lived..they are now 8-10 feet tall and doing excellent ! Northern White Cedars..they were 18" tall bare root, 2-3 seedlings i believe…And my son and i planted about 100,last year, same size and we havent see where we lost one yet…i have had other successes in between, but once i learned this knowledge, everything changed…this took me some 30 years honestly..and i had a si said thousands of dead outs along the way..imsould water and water and water…but they still died….id get maybe 10%…success over 4-5 yesrs..so yeah, it worls and ot works well…
Brian P.
Member
i have had similar success too with decidous trees. you o have to start with hign quality root stocks, and they have to have roots at lesst 10-12" long, i prefer 18" and i trim them back some to even up..the starggling roots…but you have to get below that deadly heat zone, well below 6"" and then do the rest properly…and mulch heavy..and wide…its really that simple..but most folks follow what they see and make the same mistakes over snd over again..i lesrned this wisdom from the folks at Cold Stream Tree Farm here in Michigan…after years of making the same mistakes. can not assume that tree planting instructions are valid..esp. from folks selling trees..like the county agency and so forth..people just share the same old bad information as gospel and it aint…deeply planted roots, planted properly, from good, live healthy stocks, kept cool and moist, watered in good, and with a minimum of deep heavy mulch about at least 6-8' in diameter, then watered in for a year ir two..meaning, keeping them watered " enough" but especially when temps get above 85degrees…even a living tree thats been in ground a year..or two even, if not mulched will be under much stress at that temp..and need a heavy watering twice a week or so..but if its mulched in good you can dig down andfeel the soil temps and moisture and tou will see the diffreence, esp. if out in full sun…mulch makes that bignof a difference..justnlike in the woods, again, just see thst..and remember there is shade in there too and its much cooler…that is where these chestnut trees grow naturally..but we out them out in full hot sun without any mulch around them, for both nutrients and heat and moisture protection…so dont do that…go dig the soil in the woods..it will be cool, somewhat damp and full of composted dead organic material..and thats whatbthese ramiel wood chips do..they mimic the process of leaves dropping, every year, feeding the living creatures such as bacterias and fungis, others, in the soil which in turn feed the trees..thatnis how it works..that is the process of " fertalization" so to say..dead organic material being eaten by living soil creatures is just that..and thsts where all the leaves go every year..they get eaten up..ever wonder why there isnt ten feet of dead leaves in the forest ? thats why..so there is your " fertalizer"..so just kkep a heavy layer of these ramiel chips on, and in a diameter at leat 10' prefersbly 30' in diameter around the trees and then no fertalizer needed, and the rsin will do the rest…you do need to water the first and maybe eben second year though for best results..but not beyond…that, folks is how God designed things to grow in this esrth, all on its own..even as the animals come along and nibble the tops off..which again is acyaully,good for them. have a nice day everyone !
Bgoodman30
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- Nov 21, 2016
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Asking about the chestnuts planted from earlier in this thread
Brian P.
Member
all this i said aplies to all trees, including the chestnuts….the principles apply to all seedlings and small trees !
Brian P.
Member
and i wrote in there, i planted many decidious trees as well as conifers….this works for all
Brian P.
Member
all trees are simply woody plants, that have roots and so on, just like herbs, but have differences, yet the same principles apply…to them all, the same.
I've planted several dunstan chestnuts. The oldest now being 6 years old. Probably over 15 foot tall and last year I had 8 that had chestnuts on them.
My sawtooth oaks are growing like crazy as well.
Apple trees are doing great too. 12-15 foot tall with apples last year. I started out with them in grow rubles. As they get bigger I'm taking the tubes off and fencing them. Allowing wind and air to them helps strengthen the trunks. I have 6 apple trees I took the cages off last year and just out a tube around them to keep deer from rubbing them.
I've also planted 2 pear trees and 4 crab apples. I'm looking to plant more oaks this year and more chestnuts.
I've only lost one apple tree over the years and that was my fault for not planting it deep enough.
In the spring I fertilize with 10-10-10 about a cup for each tree.
Another truck I've learned is to place cardboard around them and add a layer of mulch over that.
As far as pruning I'll trim off all the suckers, branches that cross, limbs that go straight up and open the inside up to allow more sun light in.
Trees are fun to plant and grow. I started out saying I was only going to do a few. Now I'm up to around 50 or so between them all. I've even grew some Chinese chestnut from seed in the house and then transplanted once they was about 2 foot tall.
My sawtooth oaks are growing like crazy as well.
Apple trees are doing great too. 12-15 foot tall with apples last year. I started out with them in grow rubles. As they get bigger I'm taking the tubes off and fencing them. Allowing wind and air to them helps strengthen the trunks. I have 6 apple trees I took the cages off last year and just out a tube around them to keep deer from rubbing them.
I've also planted 2 pear trees and 4 crab apples. I'm looking to plant more oaks this year and more chestnuts.
I've only lost one apple tree over the years and that was my fault for not planting it deep enough.
In the spring I fertilize with 10-10-10 about a cup for each tree.
Another truck I've learned is to place cardboard around them and add a layer of mulch over that.
As far as pruning I'll trim off all the suckers, branches that cross, limbs that go straight up and open the inside up to allow more sun light in.
Trees are fun to plant and grow. I started out saying I was only going to do a few. Now I'm up to around 50 or so between them all. I've even grew some Chinese chestnut from seed in the house and then transplanted once they was about 2 foot tall.
Brian P.
Member
JCDEERMAN
Well-Known Member
I've got a smorgasbord to plant this year…35 trees
8 chestnuts
11 persimmon
15 pears
1 blueberry bush
It will be raining tomorrow (so thinning timber is out), but I'm going to be flagging specific spots for the trees to go.
8 chestnuts
11 persimmon
15 pears
1 blueberry bush
It will be raining tomorrow (so thinning timber is out), but I'm going to be flagging specific spots for the trees to go.
Brian P.
Member
Good for you ! Man that is just awesome good…, and i wish i was also..but my time is a coming..anyways, best to you in that. !
