Bobcat set pictures

Speedwell-Hunter

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My quick analysis….your set is blocking the cat in too much. The back end is too closed off.

You also have too much blocking in the sides. It doesn't look natural like a couple small limbs that might have fallen out of a tree would look.

My goal at each set whether coyote or bobcat is to only be at the set for less than 2 minutes making it. (This is with two people…one bating and luring and one setting the trap)
Every minute you are there you are laying down a lot of scent.

That cat you have a pic of is just passing through/hunting that area. It looks very wide open. It is coming from a thick area where it lives. You need to be on that transition to set your trap. Right up next to the thick stuff.

I always dip the end of the wing/feather in a little bit of lure as well.

Good news about your situation is you have a cat there in the area. Not all places are cat areas. Some places just don't suit them as well as coyotes.

I would take the camera down as well. Cat knows it's there. I guarantee it.
thanks for this, I will use less limbs this time, not sure where do I set the actual sticks though?
 

JhnDeereMan

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thanks for this, I will use less limbs this time, not sure where do I set the actual sticks though?
Think about it like this. The cat is thinking the bait in the hole behind the trap is it's next meal. It is stealthily trying to sneak up to it to catch it. You put the twigs(small pencil size 6-8 inch pieces) everywhere you don't want the cat to step. They don't want to step on a twig and make noise. I even pull the leaves back from the trap pan a little. I make that step on top of the pan look like it will be a very quiet place to put its foot.

Make the twigs look like the cross hairs of a scope over top of the trap.
 

Speedwell-Hunter

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Think about it like this. The cat is thinking the bait in the hole behind the trap is it's next meal. It is stealthily trying to sneak up to it to catch it. You put the twigs(small pencil size 6-8 inch pieces) everywhere you don't want the cat to step. They don't want to step on a twig and make noise. I even pull the leaves back from the trap pan a little. I make that step on top of the pan look like it will be a very quiet place to put its foot.

Make the twigs look like the cross hairs of a scope over top of the trap.
"Make the twigs look like the cross hairs of a scope over top of the trap."

What do you mean by this? Here is a rough diagram of my set plans, not sure if this is good, not sure really where to set the twigs. thoughts? thanks
 

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JhnDeereMan

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"Make the twigs look like the cross hairs of a scope over top of the trap."

What do you mean by this? Here is a rough diagram of my set plans, not sure if this is good, not sure really where to set the twigs. thoughts? thanks
Here are a few pics to help
Pic of trap location with guide sticks uncovered

Then pic in relation to pipe/bait hole. I blend pipe to where it is covered by grass or leaves.

Then ground level view. Notice the guide sticks angled in the ground to push the cat to the pan

Then finally a covered trap. Notice there are no leaves over the pan. The cat should think that will be the quietest place to put its foot. Ends of guide sticks are circled and arrows pointing to the step over sticks.
 

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Speedwell-Hunter

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Here are a few pics to help
Pic of trap location with guide sticks uncovered

Then pic in relation to pipe/bait hole. I blend pipe to where it is covered by grass or leaves.

Then ground level view. Notice the guide sticks angled in the ground to push the cat to the pan

Then finally a covered trap. Notice there are no leaves over the pan. The cat should think that will be the quietest place to put its foot. Ends of guide sticks are circled and arrows pointing to the step over sticks.
two of the guide sticks look like they are stuck into the ground and two are laying on the ground, what is with the two stuck into the ground, how far away are those, I am not seeing it clearly, you say above its to push the cat to the pan?

also, the pipe, doesnt it spook them? why do you do this over a dirt hole...should I do this over a dirt hole? what are the benefits?

thx, -Speedwell
 

JhnDeereMan

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two of the guide sticks look like they are stuck into the ground and two are laying on the ground, what is with the two stuck into the ground, how far away are those, I am not seeing it clearly, you say above its to push the cat to the pan?

also, the pipe, doesnt it spook them? why do you do this over a dirt hole...should I do this over a dirt hole? what are the benefits?

thx, -Speedwell
Yes. Sticks are angled and stuck into the ground. The cat will walk between them. It is a guide to make them go right where you want them to go.

Pipe for this purpose for pics I did not cover it. When I am trapping I leave about an inch of it sticking out of the ground. Then cover it with grass and leaves. It has the bait covered by sheep's wool in it. By the time the critter figures out what it is it's too late. The reason I use a pipe is speed. I can have it in the ground and baited in less than 30 seconds. Once again I fall back to time at the set. Every minute you are there at a set you lay more scent down.

I buy my pipe mid summer and cut them and leave them setting outside so basically all the scent is gone from them.
 

Speedwell-Hunter

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Yes. Sticks are angled and stuck into the ground. The cat will walk between them. It is a guide to make them go right where you want them to go.

Pipe for this purpose for pics I did not cover it. When I am trapping I leave about an inch of it sticking out of the ground. Then cover it with grass and leaves. It has the bait covered by sheep's wool in it. By the time the critter figures out what it is it's too late. The reason I use a pipe is speed. I can have it in the ground and baited in less than 30 seconds. Once again I fall back to time at the set. Every minute you are there at a set you lay more scent down.

I buy my pipe mid summer and cut them and leave them setting outside so basically all the scent is gone from them.
how long is each pipe? how deep is it in the ground? is each set like this you make with the sticks and all?

Clint locklear was saying he puts two traps at each set, thoughts on this tactic? I have 6 traps in total, trying to figure out my game plan once Nov 20 hits. thanks-

speedwell
 

Monk74

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I'm not a trapper per say but, I do a fair job of managing predators on my place. Nothing special about my sets except, I have a travel funnel area with a small bluff and boulders pushed up where the road was built 50 years ago. I put all my deer scraps, hides and bones in a spot against the boulders inaccessible to cats and yotes except for one or two entrances. Sometimes it takes one night to have a catch. Sometimes it's a month. But sooner or later they'll get hungry enough to try it.
 

Speedwell-Hunter

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I'm not a trapper per say but, I do a fair job of managing predators on my place. Nothing special about my sets except, I have a travel funnel area with a small bluff and boulders pushed up where the road was built 50 years ago. I put all my deer scraps, hides and bones in a spot against the boulders inaccessible to cats and yotes except for one or two entrances. Sometimes it takes one night to have a catch. Sometimes it's a month. But sooner or later they'll get hungry enough to try it.
Do you have a picture of a set? Thanks
 

Speedwell-Hunter

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Here are a few pics to help
Pic of trap location with guide sticks uncovered

Then pic in relation to pipe/bait hole. I blend pipe to where it is covered by grass or leaves.

Then ground level view. Notice the guide sticks angled in the ground to push the cat to the pan

Then finally a covered trap. Notice there are no leaves over the pan. The cat should think that will be the quietest place to put its foot. Ends of guide sticks are circled and arrows pointing to the step over sticks.


Here is a set i made last night, tried guide sticks like you do, analysis?
 

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Speedwell-Hunter

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Yes. Sticks are angled and stuck into the ground. The cat will walk between them. It is a guide to make them go right where you want them to go.

Pipe for this purpose for pics I did not cover it. When I am trapping I leave about an inch of it sticking out of the ground. Then cover it with grass and leaves. It has the bait covered by sheep's wool in it. By the time the critter figures out what it is it's too late. The reason I use a pipe is speed. I can have it in the ground and baited in less than 30 seconds. Once again I fall back to time at the set. Every minute you are there at a set you lay more scent down.

I buy my pipe mid summer and cut them and leave them setting outside so basically all the scent is gone from them.

hey Jhn Deere man, regarding the pipe sets, how long is the pipe that you put into the ground, do you just use your ground anchor hammer to pound it into the ground? I feel like this would just get dirt in the pipe and make it useless, i may try some pipe sets next season, thank you.
 

Speedwell-Hunter

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Yes, there's some great videos out there. I followed their training and caught a beautiful grey fox that was eating my chickens a few years back.
Sure hated to dispatch that one, it was really a magnificent animal. I gave it to one of the members here who planned on having it taxidermi'ed.
:)
if catch another, ill pay you for the fox
 

JhnDeereMan

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hey Jhn Deere man, regarding the pipe sets, how long is the pipe that you put into the ground, do you just use your ground anchor hammer to pound it into the ground? I feel like this would just get dirt in the pipe and make it useless, i may try some pipe sets next season, thank you.
I use sch 40 electrical conduit. Cut it in about 8 in pieces. This needs to be done mid summer so your scent has time to dissolve.

I drive it in the ground with a different hammer then I set my traps with as I re use these pipes and don't want bait scent around the trap itself.

You are correct that the pipe fills with a lot of dirt when driving it in but there is enough room for the bait to be in there and concealed
 

Stick & String

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I may just be lucky and this is my first year trapping but I trapped 6 bobcats on a 900 acre property (mostly open terrain) with a standard dirt hole set intended for coyotes. And because they were intended for coyotes, I didn't have any flagging but I think I would highly recommend it. The traps were all set on 2-tracks crossing deep ditches so the animals were forced to walk over the 2-track. On one of them I got a double (recommended) and on another I caught the female one night and the tom the next. I have tons of pictures but don't know how to download them from my camera. Good luck.
 

Speedwell-Hunter

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I may just be lucky and this is my first year trapping but I trapped 6 bobcats on a 900 acre property (mostly open terrain) with a standard dirt hole set intended for coyotes. And because they were intended for coyotes, I didn't have any flagging but I think I would highly recommend it. The traps were all set on 2-tracks crossing deep ditches so the animals were forced to walk over the 2-track. On one of them I got a double (recommended) and on another I caught the female one night and the tom the next. I have tons of pictures but don't know how to download them from my camera. Good luck.
NICE!
 

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