AR help

[Omega]

Being new to gas guns, direct me on lubing the bcg properly.

Ok, so what I do is use a decent oil, not very picky as long as it's a decent brand, CLP or Frog Lube etc., works fine, and I lightly coat the entire BCG with it, then on the parts that are metal to metal I use a bit of grease, currently using TW25, sometimes I put a little grease on the bolt, but very light, not gobs, or just place a couple drops into the bolt carrier where the rings are every couple mags or so. Here is a diagram, which IMO is labeled wrong, the G is actually grease not generous, but it does ID the areas pretty good. I have tried a few dry lubes, when I had to in the desert, but a most times it was just the regular army CLP and the TW. But in most areas around here the above works great.

 

[Jcalder]

Ok, so what I do is use a decent oil, not very picky as long as it's a decent brand, CLP or Frog Lube etc., works fine, and I lightly coat the entire BCG with it, then on the parts that are metal to metal I use a bit of grease, currently using TW25, sometimes I put a little grease on the bolt, but very light, not gobs, or just place a couple drops into the bolt carrier where the rings are every couple mags or so. Here is a diagram, which IMO is labeled wrong, the G is actually grease not generous, but it does ID the areas pretty good. I have tried a few dry lubes, when I had to in the desert, but a most times it was just the regular army CLP and the TW. But in most areas around here the above works great.

Thanks!

 

[skipperbrown]

My 300 BO was ejecting the brass and it was striking the back of the ejection port and denting the case mouth. I was told by the old timers at the range to cut off one ring off of the ejection spring and keep doing so until the brass landed at 2:00-3:00 from the barrel. It only took one ring. There is a jig you can buy to assist with the removal of the pin/spring.

Stove piping is probably due to the bolt not fully opening. If the bolt won't lock back when a single round is fired, you aren't getting enough gas and/or your buffer spring may be too strong. If the bolt locks back with a single round and you still get stove pipes with additional rounds, then your extractor or ejection spring isn't functioning right.

ARs are generally run very 'wet'. Lots of lube.

 

[Jcalder]

My 300 BO was ejecting the brass and it was striking the back of the ejection port and denting the case mouth. I was told by the old timers at the range to cut off one ring off of the ejection spring and keep doing so until the brass landed at 2:00-3:00 from the barrel. It only took one ring. There is a jig you can buy to assist with the removal of the pin/spring.

Stove piping is probably due to the bolt not fully opening. If the bolt won't lock back when a single round is fired, you aren't getting enough gas and/or your buffer spring may be too strong. If the bolt locks back with a single round and you still get stove pipes with additional rounds, then your extractor or ejection spring isn't functioning right.

ARs are generally run very 'wet'. Lots of lube.

I need to do more single shots, but the bolt does lock back on an empty mag

 

[Omega]

My 300 BO was ejecting the brass and it was striking the back of the ejection port and denting the case mouth. I was told by the old timers at the range to cut off one ring off of the ejection spring and keep doing so until the brass landed at 2:00-3:00 from the barrel. It only took one ring. There is a jig you can buy to assist with the removal of the pin/spring.

Stove piping is probably due to the bolt not fully opening. If the bolt won't lock back when a single round is fired, you aren't getting enough gas and/or your buffer spring may be too strong. If the bolt locks back with a single round and you still get stove pipes with additional rounds, then your extractor or ejection spring isn't functioning right.

ARs are generally run very 'wet'. Lots of lube.

Don't listen to those old timers. No need to make any permanent changes to your weapon, put a piece of sticky velcro, the pile side, on the brass deflector and it will eliminate or greatly reduce the mouth dings. If you are real anal about the dings and want to calibrate the gas, get an adjustable gas block, that way you can run just the right amount of gas you want. I do that with rifles and pistols I want to make suppressor ready.

 

[PossumSlayer]

Having some issues with an AR. 6.5 Grendel, 20" barrel. PSA upper. 60 rounds thru it. Of the first 20, I had to dig I think 6 out that basically stovepiped. Out of the next 40, which were all shot this afternoon, I had another 2-3 that stovepiped. One thing I have noticed is that the brass is ejecting hard and hitting where the forward assist is. I'm not familiar enough with the operating system to know where to start. Upper is new. View attachment 128695


Another issue, which could possibly be me, I'm getting a lot of variation on my impacts. Aiming at bullseye, and sometimes it'll go close and others it won't. I'm new to the platform so I may be sighting a bit different each time. View attachment 128689First group of the day. No scope adjustment.

View attachment 128690Next group, made an adjustment.


View attachment 128691
Shot the upper right hole, made another adjustment and sent 4. Best group of day.

View attachment 128692No adjustment, just another 5 shot group, but my impacts moved.

View attachment 128693Shot 10, 9 stayed low, one went into a previous group.


View attachment 128694Another 10 round group. No adjustments were made. But you can see how the groups impacted differently.

You bought a defective rifle, pm me your info and I'll send you a hundred dollars and my address

 

[Jcalder]

You bought a defective rifle, pm me your info and I'll send you a hundred dollars and my address

Add a few more bens and I'll send it lol

 

[PossumSlayer]

Add a few more bens and I'll send it lol

You'll get it fixed!

 

[MODEL7FAN]

Your biggest problem is the gas block. The Grendel is really sensitive to gas and the proper buffer weight also use elander grendel mags. You need adjustable gas block you can tune. Try H1 and H2 buffer and get a quality elander mag. I had a grendel built with high end components and had the same issue. It is a great cartridge I've killed deer with but it can be a pain to get it to run right

 

[hittingsteal]

Sounds like you have a headspace issue. Most the are 15 are sammi with no issue, but where i have seen the ar10 to be all out whack. This is what we get sometimes with these parts guns.
Need a go n no go gage for the ar grendel to check that bolt carrier. Once you get it out and put gage in it should turn freely. If you put go in and its hard turn that ya problem. Just so many things that could be but that would be my first look at..

 

[backyardtndeer]

Using e lander 6.5 grendel and asc 6 mm arc mags in the 6 arc I put together, they seem to run well with the grendel cases. My brass is 6.5 grendel brass resized and trimmed to 6 arc specs. No feeding issues with those mags.