Shooting houses (size and shapes)

[DoubleRidge]

Yea, I'd avoid shingles, I did my first like a house roof, sheathing, tar paper, shingles etc, the new one is metal. Much less maintenance and since I went with the silver, it reflects the heat pretty good. I laid it on 1/2" pressure treated (PT) plywood with some wedge shaped PT 2x4s to angle it back to shed and capture rain via a gutter.

We also used silver galvalume on the roof and that's a great point on it reflecting the heat....it doesn't get as hot as a darker color.

Our roof has a slight pitch towards the rear of the blind....we have loft style steps at rear of blind...so even on the slightest misting rain we get a drip off roof onto the steps or onto your head while opening door, etc.....I've considered a section of gutter or at least a small piece of metal trim to divert the run off or drip away from the steps....still studying on it.

 

[AM84]

We also used silver galvalume on the roof and that's a great point on it reflecting the heat....it doesn't get as hot as a darker color.

Our roof has a slight pitch towards the rear of the blind....we have loft style steps at rear of blind...so even on the slightest misting rain we get a drip off roof onto the steps or onto your head while opening door, etc.....I've considered a section of gutter or at least a small piece of metal trim to divert the run off or drip away from the steps....still studying on it.

Something I've been considering while "drawing up" my plans. Which way to divert rain water. I don't want it going to the side with the door. I really don't want to go as far as a gutter, I figure it will stay clogged up. I think I'm just going to tilt the roof to a side which will let water run off down a steep hill towards a small spring anyways.

 

[DoubleRidge]

Something I've been considering while "drawing up" my plans. Which way to divert rain water. I don't want it going to the side with the door. I really don't want to go as far as a gutter, I figure it will stay clogged up. I think I'm just going to tilt the roof to a side which will let water run off down a steep hill towards a small spring anyways.

When it rains everything is obviously getting wet...but the way the pitch is and with our steps entering the back of the blind we get a drip on steps even when there's a heavy dew...I'm leaning towards a simple piece of metal trim to divert the drip... certainly not a big deal...I just noticed the second step stays damp allot...hoping diverting that drip may extend the life of the wood steps.

 

[BSK]

I just can't see that!
Here's all the lumber you need to build a 4x4... everything in the back of the truck to build one minus the tin for the roof, plexiglass for the windows, hardware and screws. Finished product in the second pic.

1 4x8 sheet 1/2 in pressure treated plywood for floor (save the other half for a 2nd house)

1 4x8 sheet of OSB for roof decking
4 4x8 sheets of t 111 siding
5 2x4s pressure treated for floor joists. and shooting rails
6 2x4s not pressure treated for wall joists and roof framing.
2 1x3s to reinforce and brace door

Total of about $225. Add another $30 in hardware, $60 for windows, $40 for tin, $5 for caulk, $5 for spray paint, and you can build the entire box for $365. I have scrap tin and windows for free, so my cost is $265.

To elevate... a set of 4 brackets for $60
4 4x4s
12 2x4s for cross bracing and ladder
Creosote post to anchor
Chain, turnbuckle, and s hooks
4 t posts for each leg.
About $400 to elevate the stand and have it secure enough to withstand 75mph winds.

We were going to match the 6x6 one pictured below. I meticulously measured and drew out the blueprint for that shooting house, including every piece of lumber and metal. At the height of the lumber price surge, lumber and hardware was over $1,200. We paid less than that for the condos.

 

[Bucket]

I'm weird in the sense that I will get as much, maybe more, enjoyment building it and working the land around it as I will hunting from it. It's all a process to me and it gets me outside and away from other distractions.

I'm the same way. The satisfaction I get from designing and building something outweighs the convenience factor of buying one.

 

[Gobble4me757]

I'm weird in the sense that I will get as much, maybe more, enjoyment building it and working the land around it as I will hunting from it. It's all a process to me and it gets me outside and away from other distractions.

I am the same as well. I just was throwing out that opinion as I could see it from both schools of thought. Though I have no problem buying them for secondary spots, I would rather spend the effort and time into spots that hold a lot of memories for myself and the family.

 

[megalomaniac]

We were going to match the 6x6 one pictured below. I meticulously measured and drew out the blueprint for that shooting house, including every piece of lumber and metal. At the height of the lumber price surge, lumber and hardware was over $1,200. We paid less than that for the condos.

yes, I can see over $1200 for that one, not even counting elevating it... once you go beyond the basic 4x4 platform, prices increase EXPONENTIALLY.

 

[Gobble4me757]

We were going to match the 6x6 one pictured below. I meticulously measured and drew out the blueprint for that shooting house, including every piece of lumber and metal. At the height of the lumber price surge, lumber and hardware was over $1,200. We paid less than that for the condos.

That's an awesome looking shooting house. Question on the condos, are they pretty loud if you move? I hunted out of a plastic one like a condo and every movement the joker creaked and cracked

 

[megalomaniac]

Something I've been considering while "drawing up" my plans. Which way to divert rain water. I don't want it going to the side with the door. I really don't want to go as far as a gutter, I figure it will stay clogged up. I think I'm just going to tilt the roof to a side which will let water run off down a steep hill towards a small spring anyways.

Look at my previous picture. You want the tall end facing the main direction, the short sloped end facing the opposite. Door on either of the other 2 sides depending on which direction you will be accessing the house from. I build mine 72in tall from top of platform to roof on the tall end. 68in tall from top of platform to roof on short end. Just enough to stand up in with you head facing down to stretch. You can go taller, but the larger the surface area exposed to the wind, the more trouble you are potentially setting yourself up for down the road.

 

[7mm08]

Great ideas! Being 6'7" just please make your doors bigger!!! I almost had to get on my knees to get into my buddy's shooting houses! Once in FINE and they were about 5x5.

Sasquatch LIVES MATTER!

 

[BSK]

That's an awesome looking shooting house. Question on the condos, are they pretty loud if you move? I hunted out of a plastic one like a condo and every movement the joker creaked and cracked

If you add no insulation, yes. We put a plywood floor in each of our condos, elevated off the floor with strips of high-density foam insulation. That helped dramatically. Plywood floor then covered with indoor/outdoor carpeting. Before next year, we will put egg-crate foam insulation on the lower foot all the way around above the floor. We found accidentally kicking the sides with your boot is the most likely way to produce loud sounds.

 

[AM84]

We were going to match the 6x6 one pictured below. I meticulously measured and drew out the blueprint for that shooting house, including every piece of lumber and metal. At the height of the lumber price surge, lumber and hardware was over $1,200. We paid less than that for the condos.

That honestly is less expensive than I would have thought that would be. I'm drawing up plans for mine in google sketch up. Once I get it done I'm curious where my total comes in but I'm thinking it will be more than that number sadly. If you still have those plans I would be curious to see them if you didn't mind and it was possible?

 

[7mmWSM]

As far as windows go I recommend using acrylic. You can saw it and drill through it with no issues at all. You don't even have to tape over the spots for breakage. Plexiglass will try to break even if you tape it. Acrylic is more user friendly to me by far. Also with acrylic you can bend it without breaking. Just put it in a vise or break press and bend away. That's how I make my drip guards and sun visors over my windows. Paint sticks to it good also.

 

[Omega]

I used Lexan, and Plexiglas (chipped/broken pieces discounted at Lowes) sliding panels for the windows, they were easy to cut using the oscillating saw and since I didn't need to drill into I had no cracking issues. I like the Lexan better though, and I did have to replace one panel about 2-3 years after install due to cracking. The Lexan is much thinner too, and seems to be clearer. As to the water a short piece of gutter keeps all the runoff away from the steps and your head while entering.

 

[megalomaniac]

I used Lexan, and Plexiglas (chipped/broken pieces discounted at Lowes) sliding panels for the windows, they were easy to cut using the oscillating saw and since I didn't need to drill into I had no cracking issues. I like the Lexan better though, and I did have to replace one panel about 2-3 years after install due to cracking. The Lexan is much thinner too, and seems to be clearer. As to the water a short piece of gutter keeps all the runoff away from the steps and your head while entering.

how do you like the sliding windows? I used to do mine like that, but seemed like something was always going wrong... from strong winds blowing one out (I used to use the cheap 1/16" plexiglass which would flex), to the stand settling and pinching them closed, to water getting on the tracks and freezing them shut. Also not as much room to manuver the rifle for moving deer with the sliding windows. There may be a way to install them for perfect function, but I never could figure out a way.

 

[Omega]

how do you like the sliding windows? I used to do mine like that, but seemed like something was always going wrong... from strong winds blowing one out (I used to use the cheap 1/16" plexiglass which would flex), to the stand settling and pinching them closed, to water getting on the tracks and freezing them shut. Also not as much room to manuver the rifle for moving deer with the sliding windows. There may be a way to install them for perfect function, but I never could figure out a way.

I had it happen twice, once I think it was a buzzard or some large bird as they left their mark on the floor. But really they hold up well, there is enough flex for me to be able to pop them out and clean both sides when required (once a season usually), but you do have to flex them to get them out. The width leaves plenty of space to work the shot, each panel is about 22" wide and they slide another 6-8" outside the opening. I lined the top and bottom of the tract with a plastic strip to let them slide better. So far they haven't frozen in place, but that is a possibility, but I think the Buddy Heater would warm them up enough to release if that happened. The old one used a different method, they slid up, and that turned out to be a PITA, but I also used corrugated plastic as a second layer, to receive the ice, wind, sun, etc, which is a feature I wise I could have incorporated in this one, but the channel barely receives two plys. But to be fair, I really haven't run into any real problems without it.

 

[DoubleRidge]

I used Lexan, and Plexiglas (chipped/broken pieces discounted at Lowes) sliding panels for the windows, they were easy to cut using the oscillating saw and since I didn't need to drill into I had no cracking issues. I like the Lexan better though, and I did have to replace one panel about 2-3 years after install due to cracking. The Lexan is much thinner too, and seems to be clearer. As to the water a short piece of gutter keeps all the runoff away from the steps and your head while entering.

Like the gutter....I need to add a gutter or trim piece to divert run off....not to be nosey but what are you using the reclaimed rain water for?

 

[Omega]

Like the gutter....I need to add a gutter or trim piece to divert run off....not to be nosey but what are you using the reclaimed rain water for?

I don't have running water out there so I ended up with three 55gl drums, I use the water for the nut and fruit trees I plant out there, also to wash up if need be. The last barrel in line has an overflow tube so the water circulates, and occasionally I throw in a spoonful of pool shock to keep the water from getting too much algae.

 

[DoubleRidge]

I don't have running water out there so I ended up with three 55gl drums, I use the water for the nut and fruit trees I plant out there, also to wash up if need be. The last barrel in line has an overflow tube so the water circulates, and occasionally I throw in a spoonful of pool shock to keep the water from getting too much algae.

That's cool....great idea...thanks....(I'm hauling water in coolers to water trees we planted)