megalomaniac
Well-Known Member
so no need to remove the big nut? just pull and it should come out???
New boat...Final update!!!
- Thread starter megalomaniac
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megalomaniac
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I'm sure you already know this from the diagram you posted but the big nut has to come off first. Is it stuck too? On both sides?
Before I spent the money, I'd try to park it on a side hill and see if some kind of anti seize lubricant won't loosen it up. Something like Blaster but I am sure there are other, potentially better, products out there.
I say on a side hill to allow gravity to possibly help pull some of the anti seize into it. Spray it on the high side every hour or so for a day and then see if you can tap it loose with a hammer after its soaked.
Before I spent the money, I'd try to park it on a side hill and see if some kind of anti seize lubricant won't loosen it up. Something like Blaster but I am sure there are other, potentially better, products out there.
I say on a side hill to allow gravity to possibly help pull some of the anti seize into it. Spray it on the high side every hour or so for a day and then see if you can tap it loose with a hammer after its soaked.
megalomaniac
Well-Known Member
Big nut completely frozen... opposite side was able to tap the support arm out about a quarter of an inch after disconnecting it from the piston, but won't budge any more after that. I started putting PB Blaster in it yesterday afternoon....
Im thinking saw the support bar at the nut, then use an impact wrench on the nut to get it off. But won't the engine need to be lifted to get the support arms out?
Those steering bars(L bars just to make sure we are talking about the same thing) can be installed and uninstalled with the motor attached to the boat and trimmed all the way down. I wouldn't recommend sawing it because if it is seized up inside, you'll have nothing to grab ahold of to try to pull it out and I am fairly certain they can't be pushed through but I have never owned a Honda.
megalomaniac
Well-Known Member
I gave up... threw a tantrum and about to break something so I took it to an outboard expert locally. He said to expect between 3 to 5 hours labor plus parts if needed 
But he used to live/ work in south Florida... so he has seen much worse. Initial thought is he is going to cut the nut off, pull the support arms, polish the tilt tube and support arms, then reinstall. So part cost should be minimal... we will see, but I can't do this myself unfortunately.
But he used to live/ work in south Florida... so he has seen much worse. Initial thought is he is going to cut the nut off, pull the support arms, polish the tilt tube and support arms, then reinstall. So part cost should be minimal... we will see, but I can't do this myself unfortunately.
Sorry you had to take it to the boat doctor, but your time and sanity are worth it. Just focus on the difference in the asking price a couple of years ago, and what you will have in it when all the fix ups are done. You are going to be WAY ahead, and can make money if you decide to sell it.
Probably wouldn't have made a difference in this case, but all we use at work is Kroil. I have seen it do some amazing stuff over the years. Just something to keep in mind next time you have something seized up. It ain't cheap however. Not cheap at all.
megalomaniac
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the tip Spur... got some on order for the future....
Well, $500 later to an outboard mechanic and one problem traded for another. He was able to get the nut loose, extract the L arms going into the tilt tube. Said he polished everything, greased everything, then got them reinstalled. Nut still grinding into the motor mount, so he drilled a new hole in the bar connecting to the motor and moved the nut back a little and replaced with a slightly shorter bolt. Works perfectly... unless you tilt the motor most of the way up... the L support arms don't rotate at all when the motor is trimmed all the way up, so now the housing where the throttle and shifter cables attach to the motor now grind into the connector bar to the hydraulic steering. It's certainly functional, as there is no way the motor would be under power requiring steering when the motor is tilted 3/4 of the way up... but it isn't fixed right IMO as the support arms should also rotate during tilt to maintain geometric angles between the hydraulic piston, the support bars, and the bracket connecting to the motor....
And yes, I said $500.
So for all of you thinking I'm crazy trying myself to do most of this stuff by watching youtube, that's why.
Normal operating position... perfect
Well, $500 later to an outboard mechanic and one problem traded for another. He was able to get the nut loose, extract the L arms going into the tilt tube. Said he polished everything, greased everything, then got them reinstalled. Nut still grinding into the motor mount, so he drilled a new hole in the bar connecting to the motor and moved the nut back a little and replaced with a slightly shorter bolt. Works perfectly... unless you tilt the motor most of the way up... the L support arms don't rotate at all when the motor is trimmed all the way up, so now the housing where the throttle and shifter cables attach to the motor now grind into the connector bar to the hydraulic steering. It's certainly functional, as there is no way the motor would be under power requiring steering when the motor is tilted 3/4 of the way up... but it isn't fixed right IMO as the support arms should also rotate during tilt to maintain geometric angles between the hydraulic piston, the support bars, and the bracket connecting to the motor....
And yes, I said $500.
So for all of you thinking I'm crazy trying myself to do most of this stuff by watching youtube, that's why.
Normal operating position... perfect
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megalomaniac
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megalomaniac
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megalomaniac
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Electronics weekend!
Pulled and replaced the corroded old fusebox. Pulled the corroded ignition switch and installed a new one. Installed replacement depth gauge. Ordered some wrong switches, so they aren't all replaced yet, but the bilge, anchor light, and port trim tabs worked. Bad connection to the right trim tab, got it working. Nav lights up front toast from corrosion, new ones here ready to install
Pulled and replaced the corroded old fusebox. Pulled the corroded ignition switch and installed a new one. Installed replacement depth gauge. Ordered some wrong switches, so they aren't all replaced yet, but the bilge, anchor light, and port trim tabs worked. Bad connection to the right trim tab, got it working. Nav lights up front toast from corrosion, new ones here ready to install
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megalomaniac
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Installing interior lights for early am or night fishing today...
Got to the non-functioning trailer lights... I think the wires were just mush, so I bought an entire new trailer wiring harness and installed it this afternoon. 1.5h later and the trailer lights STILL don't work... must be a bad ground, but I walked away before I started throwing stuff.
Tried to pull the support arms for the half assedd fixed hydraulic steering... completely frozen. At least the nut comes loose easily.
Called the 'mechanic' and told him I was trying to fix the steering myself, but couldn't get the support arms out even after he supposedly pulled them, polished them, polished the tilt tube, greased them, etc. He knows I know....
Got to the non-functioning trailer lights... I think the wires were just mush, so I bought an entire new trailer wiring harness and installed it this afternoon. 1.5h later and the trailer lights STILL don't work... must be a bad ground, but I walked away before I started throwing stuff.
Tried to pull the support arms for the half assedd fixed hydraulic steering... completely frozen. At least the nut comes loose easily.
Called the 'mechanic' and told him I was trying to fix the steering myself, but couldn't get the support arms out even after he supposedly pulled them, polished them, polished the tilt tube, greased them, etc. He knows I know....
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CliffordN
Well-Known Member
I think it might have been simpler to buy the one that already had all of the work done! But you seem to be enjoying this... I like the pics!
megalomaniac
Well-Known Member
LOL, no doubt!!! But these microskiffs are a cult following in skinny waters. Prob similar to those Jeep clubs. Just nuts... folks lining up to pay $30,000 to $45,000 for boats like this new with a 1 to 2 year wait. Heck, even 20yo classics like early 2000s watermans are still bringing in the 30k range!
Everyone a new manufacturer (like Ancona) jumps in the market making them at a reasonable price ($20,000), they get so much business so fast they Jack their prices up to $25,000 with a 1 yr wait time. Just crazy.
megalomaniac
Well-Known Member
Trailer lights now all working except for side running lights... was just bad ground, but at least i know all the wires are fresh and good!. Will work on the side running lights on a rainy day. Anchor light replaced, interior lights finished and new switch installed.
About to head to a small 10ac lake and test functionality of all my repairs/upgrades/maintenance, then replace bunks while its off the trailer!
About to head to a small 10ac lake and test functionality of all my repairs/upgrades/maintenance, then replace bunks while its off the trailer!
megalomaniac
Well-Known Member
Everything working great, amber interior lights were a nice addition for loading the boat in the dark and lighting up the bilge area in the dark.
Launched the boat and replacing the bunks took 15 min since I had them already prebuilt... just saw off the old bolts and the new ones bolted right in with stainless hardware... one of the few jobs that went much easier than expected!
Tested the trolling motor. Only pulls the boat 2mph on high speed. Would have thought it would be faster. Still haven't pulled the prop to check for line, but it was quiet. Spot lock doesn't seem to work or I don't know what I'm doing.
Ran the motor for about 5 min before I ran out of gas. I put a gallon of fresh in the tank after draining it a couple weeks ago. Didn't realize my son and friend had drained about a half gallon flushing the carb bowls last weekend while I was out picking up supplies. Thought I had enough for a longer test.
Washed the boat with the plug in to fill up the bilge and test the bilge pump... works great, no need to replace.
Now I just need to take it to a bigger freshwater lake about 30 min away and run it for an hour or so doing circles to make sure there are no hidden gremlins in the motor.... but the end of the refreshing and updating of the boat is in sight!
Launched the boat and replacing the bunks took 15 min since I had them already prebuilt... just saw off the old bolts and the new ones bolted right in with stainless hardware... one of the few jobs that went much easier than expected!
Tested the trolling motor. Only pulls the boat 2mph on high speed. Would have thought it would be faster. Still haven't pulled the prop to check for line, but it was quiet. Spot lock doesn't seem to work or I don't know what I'm doing.
Ran the motor for about 5 min before I ran out of gas. I put a gallon of fresh in the tank after draining it a couple weeks ago. Didn't realize my son and friend had drained about a half gallon flushing the carb bowls last weekend while I was out picking up supplies. Thought I had enough for a longer test.
Washed the boat with the plug in to fill up the bilge and test the bilge pump... works great, no need to replace.
Now I just need to take it to a bigger freshwater lake about 30 min away and run it for an hour or so doing circles to make sure there are no hidden gremlins in the motor.... but the end of the refreshing and updating of the boat is in sight!
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Boat looks great
7mm08
Well-Known Member
Fantastic! Congrats on the hard work
Very satisfying project.
