Garlon 4 Ultra

BSK

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Anyone have much experience using Garlon 4 Ultra to knock back hardwood saplings? I'm going to spray some timber cut areas that have already grown back to head-high hardwood saplings to promote warm-season grasses. I plan on using a back-pack sprayer for a topical application to leaf canopy.
 

Boll Weevil

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I have if you're talking about the ester (vs amine). I've had excellent results with both foliar and basal application using diesel as the carrier/penetrant on even the toughest species. My primary caution relates to spray drift or basal application to non-target stems, and translocation of chemical to roots of non-target stems.

For years I've used Garlon 4 as part of my TSI regimen but you need to be careful lest you unintentionally torch a bunch of trees. I've treated smaller dormant stems in winter, they never leafed out, by year's end they nothing more than a skeleton.
 

BSK

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I have no problem torching the entire area! I would use fire, but these are extremely steep slope locations. I plan on apply to some fairly large areas (1/2 to 1-acre patches here and there). Right now, I've got 100 acres of regrowth and I don't want all of it to return to hardwoods. Would like some patches of gnarly brambles and tall grasses to stay.

TVA has switched to maintaining their high-tension powerline right-of-ways with just backpack sprayers. Would love to recreate as much of that as possible, because wildlife is going crazy over those areas, unlike when they used to mow them every three years.
 

Boll Weevil

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I've done a combination of mechanical and chemical "thinning" in my younger hardwood stands and couldn't be happier with the results. Nice straight, well-spaced crop trees (white/red oaks, poplar, and the occasional sweetgum or hickory that'll make a log one day). Most of the competing junk species are either dead/returning to the soil or already overtopped by the keepers and will eventually lose the battle.
 

JCDEERMAN

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I have if you're talking about the ester (vs amine). I've had excellent results with both foliar and basal application using diesel as the carrier/penetrant on even the toughest species. My primary caution relates to spray drift or basal application to non-target stems, and translocation of chemical to roots of non-target stems.

For years I've used Garlon 4 as part of my TSI regimen but you need to be careful lest you unintentionally torch a bunch of trees. I've treated smaller dormant stems in winter, they never leafed out, by year's end they nothing more than a skeleton.
What is your Garlon 4 and diesel ratio or mixture rate?
 

Boll Weevil

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What is your Garlon 4 and diesel ratio or mixture rate?
1 part Garlon + 4 parts diesel will smoke any hardwood out there. It's expensive so I experimented a bit with just how much was needed to effectively get the job done. Basal spray works great on thin-barked species otherwise might have to hack'n squirt for the thickest bark trees.
 

BSK

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1 part Garlon + 4 parts diesel will smoke any hardwood out there. It's expensive so I experimented a bit with just how much was needed to effectively get the job done. Basal spray works great on thin-barked species otherwise might have to hack'n squirt for the thickest bark trees.
So in a backpack sprayer that's all you use, Garlon and diesel? I'll be foliar spraying onto hardwood saplings 5 to 6 feet tall.
 

Boll Weevil

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So in a backpack sprayer that's all you use, Garlon and diesel?
Yep. Many times I'd make up a batch and take a long walk during the winter when the weather made the work more pleasant. Can nuke a hillside in no time flat…just takes a little time to be able to see the outcome of the work.
 
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JCDEERMAN

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1 part Garlon + 4 parts diesel will smoke any hardwood out there. It's expensive so I experimented a bit with just how much was needed to effectively get the job done. Basal spray works great on thin-barked species otherwise might have to hack'n squirt for the thickest bark trees.
You the man! I'll be doing this. Especially around fire lines and where saplings have gotten out of control
 

BSK

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Fire would be my recommendation if you felt like you could burn it. Drought will thin them out too
Fire would be the perfect process, but areas I want to kill back are on very steep slopes with little access. Plus burning requires a crew and heavy equipment, and burning days are few. I can spray any time.
 

squackattack

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I would look into arsenal ( imazapyr)This is a common herbicide for pine plantings for hardwood control. Native grass will follow. Just remember correct application and timing matters.
 

BSK

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Honestly, after thinking about it, I may just use Roundup. Here's the situation: I should have sprayed last year, but I never expected such quick regrowth. I only had the timber heavily thinned two years ago in winter (Jan-Feb). Normally you have weeds and "food stuffs" in a timber cut area for three summers. But with a winter cut, and most of the sites being wetter north-facing slopes that had a lot of white oak (best growth conditions), now the third summer is already a complete canopy of hardwood saplings. No food stuffs or grasses in the area because the hardwood regrowth has already canopied out 5-6 feet high. The only plant that could keep up with the growth was blackberry, so there's a lot of blackberry mixed in. The canopy is already so complete that no spray is going to hit the ground. Most of this heavily thinned timber area (100 total acres broken into 7 patches) is just going to be allowed to go through the normal regrowth process, which is usually 3 years of summer food stuffs (weeds and newly sprouted saplings), followed by 3 years of complete canopy hardwood saplings (great cover) followed by another 10 years of moderate cover as all those hardwoods grow into pole timber stage. But I would like to create some small patches mixed in with all this regrowth that stays in the very early stage of growth (that first 3 years of food production).

I have been looking at "selective" herbicides because I didn't want to kill off any grasses that have filled in. But the regrowth has been so fast saplings have already choked out all the grasses and broadleaf weeds. I'm thinking of just going non-selective with Roundup simply to kill out some 1/2 to 1 acre patches in these big areas of regrowth. Plus, Roundup is a heck of a lot cheaper than the expensive selective herbicides.
 

Boll Weevil

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Gly should do what you need done, it's cheaper, and it will knock everything back to restart. Just know that stump sprouts have a LOT of underground "energy reserves." Make sure your mix is hot enough.
 

BSK

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Gly should do what you need done, it's cheaper, and it will knock everything back to restart. Just know that stump sprouts have a LOT of underground "energy reserves." Make sure your mix is hot enough.
I'll probably go at least 50% hotter than the mix I use to kill my food plots before tilling.
 

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