Football Hunter
Well-Known Member
Anyone had any real success fertilizing persimmons or white oaks?
If so, how ,when?
On a lease now,so limited to what i can do.
If so, how ,when?
On a lease now,so limited to what i can do.
Fertilizing oaks/persimmons
- Thread starter Football Hunter
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Chapman
Well-Known Member
Persimmons do not usually need fertilizing from what I've heard. For your oaks I would fertilize then using the recommendations for shade trees put out by the State.
DoubleRidge
Well-Known Member
Research:
The University of Tennessee System
https://fwf.tennessee.edu › sitesPDF
Fertilizing Oaks for More and Sweeter Acorns:
Fact or Fantasy?
Dr Harper along with several of his students ran a 10 year study and compared oaks that were fertilized verses oaks that had the canopy released....interesting study to read and basically they found no benefit with fertilizing oaks to improve acorn production or acorn quality.....so chainsaw gas to release the crown of a productive whiteoak would give a better return on investment verses the cost of fertilizer.
The University of Tennessee System
https://fwf.tennessee.edu › sitesPDF
Fertilizing Oaks for More and Sweeter Acorns:
Fact or Fantasy?
Dr Harper along with several of his students ran a 10 year study and compared oaks that were fertilized verses oaks that had the canopy released....interesting study to read and basically they found no benefit with fertilizing oaks to improve acorn production or acorn quality.....so chainsaw gas to release the crown of a productive whiteoak would give a better return on investment verses the cost of fertilizer.
Chapman
Well-Known Member
I'd recommend fertilizer if you want to put faster growth on young trees. I wouldn't expect it to increase acorn or persimmon production on more mature trees. I've heard persimmons won't produce fruit as well with extra fertilizer.
eyeseeker
Well-Known Member
I spread my fireplace ashes around my fruit trees at the drip line. I have noticed a growth difference in pears and persimmons vs those that I missed or forgot about.
DoubleRidge
Well-Known Member
Interesting....I've spread fireplace ashes over our raised garden bed soil a few times in the winter before.
Unofficially
I have for years watched a few groups of trees exposed to "ideal" circumstances. Meaning young trees protected from competition after 15 feet in an area where good soil (amended due to being alongside food plots or crops) and in my mind I see improved branch and limb development in quantity and quality, far better leaf production (in quantity and quality) which in itself is significant in value to fruit or nut production. They began production earlier by an average of 1.5 years. They had significantly larger fruit, larger overall crop and seem to be more desirable to all game. Not taking credit and I don't believe that any one thing caused these trees to be superior instead it was the result of ideal circumstances all coming together in one place and persisting for years.
These trees included white oak, pin oak, chestnut oak, persimmons and paw paws. The paw paws were the most impressive with thick and healthy branches, lots of heavy leaves (looking like something that belongs in your yard) and bumper crops of fruit.
My conclusion is that a tree will make the best it can with what it has and is accustomed to. So exceptional trees are possible under exceptional circumstances over a longer period of time. 3 to 5 years is not a long period of time. 10 to 15 for fruit trees and 15+ for nut bearing trees.
I have for years watched a few groups of trees exposed to "ideal" circumstances. Meaning young trees protected from competition after 15 feet in an area where good soil (amended due to being alongside food plots or crops) and in my mind I see improved branch and limb development in quantity and quality, far better leaf production (in quantity and quality) which in itself is significant in value to fruit or nut production. They began production earlier by an average of 1.5 years. They had significantly larger fruit, larger overall crop and seem to be more desirable to all game. Not taking credit and I don't believe that any one thing caused these trees to be superior instead it was the result of ideal circumstances all coming together in one place and persisting for years.
These trees included white oak, pin oak, chestnut oak, persimmons and paw paws. The paw paws were the most impressive with thick and healthy branches, lots of heavy leaves (looking like something that belongs in your yard) and bumper crops of fruit.
My conclusion is that a tree will make the best it can with what it has and is accustomed to. So exceptional trees are possible under exceptional circumstances over a longer period of time. 3 to 5 years is not a long period of time. 10 to 15 for fruit trees and 15+ for nut bearing trees.
About 20 years ago while I was still living in FL, I visited a small nursery that specialized in selling bare root persimmons trees. The owner of the nursery took time to introduce me to the persimmon world even how to graft them. She also told me that they fertilized their persimmon trees beginning Feb. 14 of each year. She advised me to used one cup of 10-10-10 on the 14th of each month Feb, - Aug. spread around the drip line, No fertilize from Sept - Jan. I have no idea why she insisted on the 14th of each month. Today I don't follow her recommended regimen closely But I can't argue with her success. Keep in mind, spring comes early in FL. Feb. 14 would probably be too early in TN.
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What others have said - your best bet is to thin the canopy and take out undesirable trees. But not too much if you care about timber value... you'll develop epicormic (?) branches. I think that's what they are called. Will destroy timber value.
Several studies have shown surface application of fertilizer doesn't do much good on already grown trees.
