Zeiss Scope Question

[JeepKuntry]

Still going back and forth on whether or not to put that much money into a scope. Mainly used for hunting and a little target practice. But my question is, is the RZ600 worth the extra 75 bucks? Pros/Cons of the RZ600?

 

[cdw338]

If you want to take the time to tailer your load to the markings on the scope, then maybe, you know they are etched in the glass.

If you hunt where you have time to check and adjust your aim to the markings, then yes, practice and enjoy.

I have a friend that has a z800 and loves it. His load just by chance matched the markings exactly. He has used it to make a
couple of kills over 600 yards.

I want one of the Z800's myself.

 

[rdl65]

Personally I don't like the ones with the Rapid Z reticules. I think they dont match the load with enough precision to make long shots with a few exceptions. Plus with all the lines I think it looks too crowded when looking through scope.
I like the Z Plex with target turrets. With the target turrets I just zero my scope for 100 yds. and just dial-up for elevation. I also made a bullet drop chart and keep it underneath the ammo carrier on the stock.
And I too was unsure if they were worth the extra money. The answer is Yes. I just recently bought one and I wish I had the money back that I've wasted over the years on cheaper scopes.

 

[Model70Man]

The Rapid Z reticles IMO are too busy and are not worth the extra money. A basic #4 or #20 are the way to go if you are not a dedicated long range shooter or hunter.

 

[TheLBLman]

The Rapid Z reticles IMO are too busy . . . .

Exactly my thoughts, plus they seem less "visible" than, say, the Leupold B&C reticle.

I've previously not been very excited about some of the new electonic rangefinding scopes hitting the market, but this 2010 version (link below) from Burris has got my interest.
http://www.burrisoptics.com/laserscope.html

Anyone care to share their thoughts on this particular laserscope vs. any of the range-aiming reticles?

 

[megalomaniac]

buy a good range finder
know ur speed and balistics
dial it in shoot it

to busy indeed

To me that sounds kind of busy, you gotta check and dial in every shot as the range changes significantly?..
...from the looks of the scope in the link, setting it is just a one time deal..you pick zero at 1 or 2 hundred yards, then punch in the total drop with your load at 500. Thats it, one time and your done... After that, its automaticly set from then on @ + or - 1 yard... let the scope do the work...

And hope you remembered to have it on the same power you worked up your drops for.

And hope you picked the right hashmark through the clutter of the reticle.

Count me in the crowd of 'spin the dial and pull the trigger' group. You really only need to do this in shots over 300 yards, though (with 270 velocities and up)

Once you get used to it, it becomes second nature. You range the target, check your drop chart. If you need 5.5 MOA, you just turn the knob to 5.5, put the crosshairs where you want the bullet to hit, then pull the trigger. I'm not terribly opposed to any of the BDC- type reticles, just opposed to paying any extra money for them.

 

[FLTENNHUNTER1]

The Rapid Z reticles IMO are too busy . . . .

Exactly my thoughts, plus they seem less "visible" than, say, the Leupold B&C reticle.

I've previously not been very excited about some of the new electonic rangefinding scopes hitting the market, but this 2010 version (link below) from Burris has got my interest.
http://www.burrisoptics.com/laserscope.html

Anyone care to share their thoughts on this particular laserscope vs. any of the range-aiming reticles?

I likey.

 

[Grizzly Johnson]

I have the RZ800 and it is great for me, use their calculations based on your gun and bullet loads.

You HAVE to use the zoom power the say on anything past the 200 yard zero. Just use the directions that come with the scope and log onto their website and fill out the chart, you will get your zoom power to start with. You adjust the zoom power to tighten your groups, practice, practice....

FYI, America Hunter voted it number #1 out of the BDC scopes the tested for accuracy of the distance marks.

 

[TheLBLman]

I had never seen the scopes before wes posted the link .... But from the short video it appears that there are no seperate hash marks to contend with. . . . . . It looks to be just a standard post duplex reticle that has a luminated dot that moves down the lower post to automaticly zero the scope to the appropriate range. With todays technology I could imagine that it could(?) even self compensate for varying degrees of magnification . . . . .

I think some of the confusion is that many posters are talking about BDC scopes vs. turrets, and haven't even seen the video on this new Burris scope (to be officially debuted at the 2010 Shot Show --- I think Bowriter is going to let me borrow his badge so I can go mill around and check out all the new stuff! ) .

I may be mistaken, but I believe this new Burris scope is "dead on" no matter what magnification you have the scope set. I think many hunters will find this a more simple "less busy" scope than either BDC or turrets. There are only 2 aiming points, the center crosshair, and the single electronic dot (which moves up and down as you aim at different ranges).

Here's the link again:
http://www.burrisoptics.com/laserscope.html
Key difference is this scope is neither a BDC nor a turret scope --- totally new concept.

The New Burris ELIMINATOR� LASERSCOPE
In a Split Second, The Eliminator
Ranges your target
Calculates your trajectory
Illuminates your perfect holdover

 

[megalomaniac]

I had never seen the scopes before wes posted the link .... But from the short video it appears that there are no seperate hash marks to contend with. . . . . . It looks to be just a standard post duplex reticle that has a luminated dot that moves down the lower post to automaticly zero the scope to the appropriate range. With todays technology I could imagine that it could(?) even self compensate for varying degrees of magnification . . . . .

I think some of the confusion is that many posters are talking about BDC scopes vs. turrets, and haven't even seen the video on this new Burris scope (to be officially debuted at the 2010 Shot Show --- I think Bowriter is going to let me borrow his badge so I can go mill around and check out all the new stuff! ) .

I may be mistaken, but I believe this new Burris scope is "dead on" no matter what magnification you have the scope set. I think many hunters will find this a more simple "less busy" scope than either BDC or turrets. There are only 2 aiming points, the center crosshair, and the single electronic dot (which moves up and down as you aim at different ranges).

Here's the link again:
http://www.burrisoptics.com/laserscope.html
Key difference is this scope is neither a BDC nor a turret scope --- totally new concept.

The New Burris ELIMINATOR™ LASERSCOPE
In a Split Second, The Eliminator
Ranges your target
Calculates your trajectory
Illuminates your perfect holdover

Wow, that's a great concept!

But frought with disaster...

First of all, it'll probably cost $1000... WAY too much for junk glass in burris.

Second, you're supposed to imput your drop at 500 yards... just fine if you've actually shot your rifle at that distance and KNOW the actual drop, but likely many will just input their calculated drop without actually shooting it.

Third, you're looking at an 800 yard rangefinder. 550 on deer. Worthless for my applications. And if you're shooting at 1000 yards, there probably won't be any way the illuminated dot will drop far enough down on the reticle to account for the aiming point at that distance.

Fourth, the darn thing weighs over 3lbs. Holy crap, that's an anchor mounted to the top of the rifle.

In short, it would be an ok scope for those limiting shots to 400-500 yards, but at a ridiculous price for mediocre glass.

I predict major flop in burris's future

 

[TheLBLman]

. . . . . . you're looking at an 800 yard rangefinder. 550 on deer. Worthless for my applications. And if you're shooting at 1000 yards, there probably won't be any way the illuminated dot will drop far enough down on the reticle to account for the aiming point at that distance.

Meg, undoubtedly, this is not the scope for you, and maybe not me either ---- but it sure has caught my eye as an interesting new concept.

I hope all our talk isn't encouraging too many hunters to take low-probability shots way beyond their capabilities. Very few hunters have the experience and capability to make field shots over two or three hundred yards --- heck, I'm constantly shaking may head at how many deer get bad shots made on them (or missed) at under 100 yards.

When it comes to long-range shooting beyond 300 yards, I'd consider you one of the relatively few exceptions of those who are practiced and capable, not to mention, have a place to hunt where a deer is even visible over 300 yards. And, yes, I know there are several other posters on this forum who are capable of 500-plus-yd shots, but just purchasing a particular scope doesn't make one capable.

My opinion, very few hunters should be taking shots over two or three hundred yards for the simple reason they have not and are not practicing and learning the limitations of both themselves and their rifles. Many are going afield with their rifles only bore-sighted from the sporting goods store from where they purchased it.

. . . . . . it would be an ok scope for those limiting shots to 400-500 yards, but at a ridiculous price for mediocre glass.

I'm not sure about the glass quality (yet) on this particular Burris, but I'd speculate it's better glass than what most deer hunters currently have on their rifles. But I agree the price seems a bit high, although in line with many cutting-edge new products. (I'd hate to see the price of this if Leupold had come up with the new technology!) On the other hand, Burris scopes in general are known to have decent glass relative to their prices. I find my less costly Burris Signature Select to be very comparable to my Leupold VX-III. Personally, my field limitations for a high-probability shot are usually under 300 yards, no matter what my scope. Actually, due to the places I set up, they're usually under 50 yards, as I can't see a deer period beyond that.

 

[megalomaniac]

Wes,

I agree burris has good glass for the money. I'm very pleased with my burris fullfield II scope on my muzzleloader that I paid $130 for. But when you get into the $1000 range, I'm expecting some serious high end glass, and burris hasn't had glass at that level yet.

Another thing to consider... if you are planning on shooting 300 yards and in, there's no need for any rangefinding or BDC reticle or even turrets (unless you're shooting something travelling 2000 fps or under). Just sight in for 200 yards and hold top 1/3 of the animal at 300 yards and you're good to go. So this scope is really only useful from say 350 or so out to 550.

But you're right, products like these can lead to some seriously unethical shots and wounded/lost game for the average hunter. It takes a fair amount of practice at the range to realize just how much bullet drop and wind drift affect your bullet's flight. And it takes a bigger man NOT to pull the trigger when conditions aren't perfect.

Distance is all relative depending on the weapon or cartridge... 35 yards is my max with a bow (on a whitetail). 150 is pushing it for my muzzleloader. 300 is my max with most of my rifles. Anything under 700 yards with my long range rig is toast.

 

[pass-thru]

Wes,

I agree burris has good glass for the money. I'm very pleased with my burris fullfield II scope on my muzzleloader that I paid $130 for. But when you get into the $1000 range, I'm expecting some serious high end glass, and burris hasn't had glass at that level yet.

Another thing to consider... if you are planning on shooting 300 yards and in, there's no need for any rangefinding or BDC reticle or even turrets (unless you're shooting something travelling 2000 fps or under). Just sight in for 200 yards and hold top 1/3 of the animal at 300 yards and you're good to go. So this scope is really only useful from say 350 or so out to 550.

But you're right, products like these can lead to some seriously unethical shots and wounded/lost game for the average hunter. It takes a fair amount of practice at the range to realize just how much bullet drop and wind drift affect your bullet's flight. And it takes a bigger man NOT to pull the trigger when conditions aren't perfect.

Distance is all relative depending on the weapon or cartridge... 35 yards is my max with a bow (on a whitetail). 150 is pushing it for my muzzleloader. 300 is my max with most of my rifles. Anything under 700 yards with my long range rig is toast.

Just curious, what is your long range rig and what make/model scope do you have on it?

 

[megalomaniac]

Kirby Allen built 300 RUM with 28" Lilja barrel
Nightforce NXS 8-32 x 56.

Sucker weighs around 16 lbs, but that makes it sit well on bags and a bipod

This thread has been officially hijacked

... sorry

 

[rdl65]

NightForce, now there is some serious glass.

 

[Tiny]

Wes,

I agree burris has good glass for the money. I'm very pleased with my burris fullfield II scope on my muzzleloader that I paid $130 for. But when you get into the $1000 range, I'm expecting some serious high end glass, and burris hasn't had glass at that level yet.

Another thing to consider... if you are planning on shooting 300 yards and in, there's no need for any rangefinding or BDC reticle or even turrets (unless you're shooting something travelling 2000 fps or under). Just sight in for 200 yards and hold top 1/3 of the animal at 300 yards and you're good to go. So this scope is really only useful from say 350 or so out to 550.

But you're right, products like these can lead to some seriously unethical shots and wounded/lost game for the average hunter. It takes a fair amount of practice at the range to realize just how much bullet drop and wind drift affect your bullet's flight. And it takes a bigger man NOT to pull the trigger when conditions aren't perfect.

Distance is all relative depending on the weapon or cartridge... 35 yards is my max with a bow (on a whitetail). 150 is pushing it for my muzzleloader. 300 is my max with most of my rifles. Anything under 700 yards with my long range rig is toast.

Well said.

One thing a person MIGHT be able to go to 400 with regular crosshairs instead of BDC type with the right set up thinking the field cannons like the RUM/STW and such.

BTW true here as well.

Second, you're supposed to imput your drop at 500 yards... just fine if you've actually shot your rifle at that distance and KNOW the actual drop, but likely many will just input their calculated drop without actually shooting it.