Which arrows

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Dirt nap

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Soddy daisy TN
Getting my 10 yr old a infinite edge for Christmas . I have bow hunted for ever but I still use the Easton acc 360 arrows from 10 yrs ago . I don't get into as much as I use to, so I have no idea about all these new arrows . What is a good arrow for him to start with but still good enough to deer hunt with hopefully without breaking the bank ?
 
Don't know yet will get it set up after Christmas and cut right length was gonna try and have all the extras at Christmas he's 10 but only about 65 lbs so want be much pull at first
 
Normally, I'm an absolute stickler for the exact spine/weight and match when getting arrows matched for a bow; however, in this case just get an economy type of arrow because he is going to lose them or mess them up at some point as he goes through the learning process. You do need them to match, but there is no reason to by a young beginner a $80-$100 set of arrows that he can learn with. You can find inexpensive arrows at Bass Pro, Cabelas, Academy and even WalMart—just go with the private label brands. Something around a .400 spine and cut them about 2"-3" long, so he can grow into them as he reaches those pre-teen growth spurts, will do. My 7 year old is shooting some of mine and my buddies old junk arrows with his Infinite Edge that are cut down and he doesn't know and doesn't care—he is just flinging arrows with his Dad and that is what is important.

You can go ahead and measure him, he'll have no idea what you're doing, and get it setup with everything except for the peep height.
 
At 65 lbs he's going not be pulling much in the way of lbs. I would say get some cheap 500 spline arrows and cut them like 29 inches and you should be fine, like said above he will probably lose some and the length is not going to matter all that much,


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TNDeerGuy":3vwa71hs said:
Normally, I'm an absolute stickler for the exact spine/weight and match when getting arrows matched for a bow; however, in this case just get an economy type of arrow because he is going to lose them or mess them up at some point as he goes through the learning process. You do need them to match, but there is no reason to by a young beginner a $80-$100 set of arrows that he can learn with. You can find inexpensive arrows at Bass Pro, Cabelas, Academy and even WalMart—just go with the private label brands. Something around a .400 spine and cut them about 2"-3" long, so he can grow into them as he reaches those pre-teen growth spurts, will do. My 7 year old is shooting some of mine and my buddies old junk arrows with his Infinite Edge that are cut down and he doesn't know and doesn't care—he is just flinging arrows with his Dad and that is what is important.

You can go ahead and measure him, he'll have no idea what you're doing, and get it setup with everything except for the peep height.

Perfect advice!!!


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TNDeerGuy":1ye4zen9 said:
Normally, I'm an absolute stickler for the exact spine/weight and match when getting arrows matched for a bow; however, in this case just get an economy type of arrow because he is going to lose them or mess them up at some point as he goes through the learning process. You do need them to match, but there is no reason to by a young beginner a $80-$100 set of arrows that he can learn with. You can find inexpensive arrows at Bass Pro, Cabelas, Academy and even WalMart—just go with the private label brands. Something around a .400 spine and cut them about 2"-3" long, so he can grow into them as he reaches those pre-teen growth spurts, will do. My 7 year old is shooting some of mine and my buddies old junk arrows with his Infinite Edge that are cut down and he doesn't know and doesn't care—he is just flinging arrows with his Dad and that is what is important.

You can go ahead and measure him, he'll have no idea what you're doing, and get it setup with everything except for the peep height.

I bought my 9 year old this same bow for Christmas and I know very little about setting up archery equipment. I would like to have a few arrows to fling on Christmas day, but I have no idea what length to get him or where to set the peep. Can you give some advice on this?
 
JoninTN":1dzgkgic said:
TNDeerGuy":1dzgkgic said:
Normally, I'm an absolute stickler for the exact spine/weight and match when getting arrows matched for a bow; however, in this case just get an economy type of arrow because he is going to lose them or mess them up at some point as he goes through the learning process. You do need them to match, but there is no reason to by a young beginner a $80-$100 set of arrows that he can learn with. You can find inexpensive arrows at Bass Pro, Cabelas, Academy and even WalMart—just go with the private label brands. Something around a .400 spine and cut them about 2"-3" long, so he can grow into them as he reaches those pre-teen growth spurts, will do. My 7 year old is shooting some of mine and my buddies old junk arrows with his Infinite Edge that are cut down and he doesn't know and doesn't care—he is just flinging arrows with his Dad and that is what is important.

You can go ahead and measure him, he'll have no idea what you're doing, and get it setup with everything except for the peep height.

I bought my 9 year old this same bow for Christmas and I know very little about setting up archery equipment. I would like to have a few arrows to fling on Christmas day, but I have no idea what length to get him or where to set the peep. Can you give some advice on this?

Jon, I would be glad to help as much as I can. The beauty about the Infinte Edge is that you do not need a press, just the manual with the diagram that tells you which post on the cams to use for his draw length and poundage. First of all, measure his draw length. This is done two ways. Keep in mind my Strawberry Shortcake pajama wearing model wasn't cooperating very well but you can get the idea, have the child stand in a "T", but not stretched out, and measure them from the tip of the middle finger to the other middle finger and then take that number and divide by 2.5—this is the most common method. I also like to take another measurement by having them stand normal and "punch" a wall, remember to not stretch, and measure from the wall in front of their fist to the corner of the mouth of the draw arm—this number should be close to the first number. Typically, I take the first measurement and setup the bow 1/2" short than the measurement as a starting point—I use this to take into account the length of the D-Loop. After you set the draw length and the weight (you can get a decent scale from numerous places like Ace Hardware for $20), have them shoot without a peep for awhile so they can just get used to shooting and not aiming. When you do get ready to install the peep, start with 3" above the nocking point and unload the limbs/cams so you can install the peep without damaging the string. Then have them close their eyes, draw and get to anchor just like they were going to shoot and then have the person open their eye, without coming off the anchor, so they can tell you were to move the peep up or down so the ring on the sight is centered. After it is set to where the person thinks they like it, have them draw eyes closed, come to anchor and then open the eyes to verify it is in place and then tie it in. If you do not know how to tie in a D-Loop I can get a D-Loop Video posted and the same for tying in a peep. I use a different method than 95% of others and the way I tie it is not only easier but more secure than the old serving way to do it and it cannot be moved.

As far as the arrows, only cut 2 of them (enough to shoot on Christmas morning :) ) and cut them 3-4"" longer than the draw length and then after he gets the bow and you have confirmed the draw length is correct then you can cut the rest of the arrows. To confirm the draw length, look at his bow arm and make sure it is parallel to the ground and the elbow is slightly unlocked. Also with him at full draw, place an arrow across the back of the shoulders—if the arrow is pointed toward the target, give or take a little, then the archer is reasonably at a good starting point. If it is pointed off 45 degrees to his left (for a RH Shooter) it is too short, if the bow arm is straight and parallel.

Make sure though that the grip is correct, if there is a death grip and the grip is in a closed position it will cause the bow arm to rotate and the forearm will get slapped, which is a horrible thing for beginning archers.

One last thing, set the poundage a little lighter than what you they can pull comfortably to begin with.

If you need anything else or need me to clarify don't be afraid to ask for help! Once again, I'm sorry for my model...a model with a nasty attitude this morning! :)

Here is the peep sight method I use and it is the best I've found for securing a peep so it can't/won't move. https://vimeo.com/20458060
 

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TNDeerGuy":30gr5m1d said:
JoninTN":30gr5m1d said:
TNDeerGuy":30gr5m1d said:
Normally, I'm an absolute stickler for the exact spine/weight and match when getting arrows matched for a bow; however, in this case just get an economy type of arrow because he is going to lose them or mess them up at some point as he goes through the learning process. You do need them to match, but there is no reason to by a young beginner a $80-$100 set of arrows that he can learn with. You can find inexpensive arrows at Bass Pro, Cabelas, Academy and even WalMart—just go with the private label brands. Something around a .400 spine and cut them about 2"-3" long, so he can grow into them as he reaches those pre-teen growth spurts, will do. My 7 year old is shooting some of mine and my buddies old junk arrows with his Infinite Edge that are cut down and he doesn't know and doesn't care—he is just flinging arrows with his Dad and that is what is important.

You can go ahead and measure him, he'll have no idea what you're doing, and get it setup with everything except for the peep height.

I bought my 9 year old this same bow for Christmas and I know very little about setting up archery equipment. I would like to have a few arrows to fling on Christmas day, but I have no idea what length to get him or where to set the peep. Can you give some advice on this?

Jon, I would be glad to help as much as I can. The beauty about the Infinte Edge is that you do not need a press, just the manual with the diagram that tells you which post on the cams to use for his draw length and poundage. First of all, measure his draw length. This is done two ways. Keep in mind my Strawberry Shortcake pajama wearing model wasn't cooperating very well but you can get the idea, have the child stand in a "T", but not stretched out, and measure them from the tip of the middle finger to the other middle finger and then take that number and divide by 2.5—this is the most common method. I also like to take another measurement by having them stand normal and "punch" a wall, remember to not stretch, and measure from the wall in front of their fist to the corner of the mouth of the draw arm—this number should be close to the first number. Typically, I take the first measurement and setup the bow 1/2" short than the measurement as a starting point—I use this to take into account the length of the D-Loop. After you set the draw length and the weight (you can get a decent scale from numerous places like Ace Hardware for $20), have them shoot without a peep for awhile so they can just get used to shooting and not aiming. When you do get ready to install the peep, start with 3" above the nocking point and unload the limbs/cams so you can install the peep without damaging the string. Then have them close their eyes, draw and get to anchor just like they were going to shoot and then have the person open their eye, without coming off the anchor, so they can tell you were to move the peep up or down so the ring on the sight is centered. After it is set to where the person thinks they like it, have them draw eyes closed, come to anchor and then open the eyes to verify it is in place and then tie it in. If you do not know how to tie in a D-Loop I can get a D-Loop Video posted and the same for tying in a peep. I use a different method than 95% of others and the way I tie it is not only easier but more secure than the old serving way to do it and it cannot be moved.

As far as the arrows, only cut 2 of them (enough to shoot on Christmas morning :) ) and cut them 3-4"" longer than the draw length and then after he gets the bow and you have confirmed the draw length is correct then you can cut the rest of the arrows. To confirm the draw length, look at his bow arm and make sure it is parallel to the ground and the elbow is slightly unlocked. Also with him at full draw, place an arrow across the back of the shoulders—if the arrow is pointed toward the target, give or take a little, then the archer is reasonably at a good starting point. If it is pointed off 45 degrees to his left (for a RH Shooter) it is too short, if the bow arm is straight and parallel.

Make sure though that the grip is correct, if there is a death grip and the grip is in a closed position it will cause the bow arm to rotate and the forearm will get slapped, which is a horrible thing for beginning archers.

One last thing, set the poundage a little lighter than what you they can pull comfortably to begin with.

If you need anything else or need me to clarify don't be afraid to ask for help! Once again, I'm sorry for my model...a model with a nasty attitude this morning! :)

Here is the peep sight method I use and it is the best I've found for securing a peep so it can't/won't move. https://vimeo.com/20458060
Only one problem with this post.....those are not strawberry shortcake pajamas..... they are sofia the first. Can you tell I have 2 daughters under the age of 5?

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Get an arm guard for him too. Especially starting out, mistakes happen and it can help cut down on the arm slap problem. Make sure it's far enough back the string isn't apt to slap behind it, that pinches in addition to the slap mark.
 
Thanks for advice man this gone take some time with him . Patience Patience Patience he is having a hard time getting everything lined up so he is a lil bummed out .Guess he thought he could just pull it back and fling it . He was excited he could finally pull one back though. Seems to be a great bow
 
Dirt nap":w5sypojq said:
Thanks for advice man this gone take some time with him . Patience Patience Patience he is having a hard time getting everything lined up so he is a lil bummed out .Guess he thought he could just pull it back and fling it . He was excited he could finally pull one back though. Seems to be a great bow

What settings do you have it set on? Make sure that it is very easy for him to pull back, he shouldn't have to stain at all to get it back.
 
Two trains of thought here....
First is go as cheap as you can to begin with. Lost and/or broken arrows add up. The second, as you can attest to if you've been shooting ACC shafts, is go ahead and spend the money on quality shafts. In my opinion you can't beat the ACCs. They don't bend and don't break easily. On the front end they cost. After a couple or even a few years when you're still shooting the original shafts you bought they work out to be much cheaper than many of the lesser shafts you purchased along the way...and that you'll have to repurchase as you go along.
 

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