Trolling motor battery

[Dbllunger]

Anyone here use or know about the Optima AGM batteries. Looking to get a good, quality battery and though expensive, I'm thinking that maybe in the long run it would be better but was wondering if anyone here has real world experience. I have a 45lb thrust trollin motor that runs on 12 volts on my 1648 SeaArk welded aluminum boat.

anyone familiar?

 

[scn]

If you are thinking of going to that level, you might check out just going on up to a lithium. Supposedly they run at max until totally depleted. And, they supposedly last much longer than a lead battery. If you are only using it for the TM, it might be worth the upgrade.

WTM on here may be a good source of info for you for making that jump.

Some of my fishing friends have tried the Optima AGM, and said they got as good or better performance/lifespan out of the WalMart TM battery.

 

[chimneyman]

I'm getting 4-5 years on the Walmart battery but it's on trickle charge24-7 unless I'm fishing

 

[tellico4x4]

When we were into hard core rock crawling used them on all our buggies. Red one for cranking & yellow for winch. Beauty for me was we could wedge them into small places when building buggy, even upside down if needed. Had one mounted a little too close to a header one time that melted one side & caught fire out in Moab! Two years later we were still using it.

That said, I agree with @scn on the lithium. Replaced five 100 amp AGM with two 200 amp Lithium batteries on my solar setup at camp. A tad pricey but well worth it imo. One 100 amp AGM weighes more than the 200 amp Lithium.

 

[Pilchard]

I've tried everything short of the lithiums… never got any better performance out of the AGMs than I did out of the Walmart cheapos.

I'd just get a group 31 deep cycle for $140 and go buy a new one every 3 years.

Are you a Costco or Sams member? Best prices I found was through them most times. If not, I can pick you one up at Sams. It will only cost you a little bit of intel on where I should put my grandfather during muzzleloader season.

 

[rsimms]

Anyone here use or know about the Optima AGM batteries. Looking to get a good, quality battery and though expensive, I'm thinking that maybe in the long run it would be better but was wondering if anyone here has real world experience. I have a 45lb thrust trollin motor that runs on 12 volts on my 1648 SeaArk welded aluminum boat.

anyone familiar?

Last time around, I bought a pair of yellow top Optima's (I run a 24-volt TM) because I got tired of cheap batteries dying long before their time. The Optima's have a 3-year FULL replacement warranty. They will be 3-years old in June. They have performed flawlessly and I have no reason to believe they won't continue performing well long after the warranty runs out.

That said, whenever I have to buy a new set, I suspect I will bite the bullet and buy Lithium, primarily for the weight savings.

 

[Dbllunger]

I've tried everything short of the lithiums… never got any better performance out of the AGMs than I did out of the Walmart cheapos.

I'd just get a group 31 deep cycle for $140 and go buy a new one every 3 years.

Are you a Costco or Sams member? Best prices I found was through them most times. If not, I can pick you one up at Sams. It will only cost you a little bit of intel on where I should put my grandfather during muzzleloader season.

Trust me,grandpa is killing a good one this year. I already got his spot picked out.

 

[Hduke86]

Don't know how much the Optima AGM battery costs but I have all lithium batteries. My trolling motor 24v Ulterra 80# is a single 24v lithium, a separate 12v lithium mini 100ah for my graphs and interior/exterior lights. I have a dedicated 12v lithium 50Ah for my Livescope. I have been fishing plenty daylight to dark and have FULL power on everything when I get off the water. They hold full power until the end. I suggest going lithium 12v and you'll be amazed at the steady full power and weight savings. All of mine are Li-time lithium and have nothing but praise to say about them and the quick customer service.

 

[Hduke86]

Shot ya a pm @Dbllunger

 

[killingtime 41]

I know on older boats not sure the cut off year or anything. That you'd have to check out for yourself cause you all know what you got. But lead batteries was all you could use because it would blow the rectifier on your motor that's used to charge while your running. Probably not an issue anymore. Just check that out before you burn up 3 rectifiers. Don't ask me how I know. Lol

 

[Dbllunger]

I know on older boats not sure the cut off year or anything. That you'd have to check out for yourself cause you all know what you got. But lead batteries was all you could use because it would blow the rectifier on your motor that's used to charge while your running. Probably not an issue anymore. Just check that out before you burn up 3 rectifiers. Don't ask me how I know. Lol

Yeah, I've had to pay a stupid tax more times than I care to admit for various things. lol.... In this case it is a dedicated trolling motor with no connection to the boat motor at all so I wouldn't have that particular issue. However, great info to know.

 

[WTM]

theyre fine with a little better warranty than most lead acids. where people screw up thinking its a defective battery, is in the discharge and storage state of charge. never store an FLA, SLA or AGM below 12.4v or discharge an SLA, FLA below 12.2v or an AGM below 11.95v. this is around the 50% depth of discharge, get below that and youll kill them. bluetooth shunted capacity and voltage display meters are so cheap now it doesnt make sense not to have one.

the same principle applies to LFP batteries. keep them in a 10-90% DOD window. run them until the BMS shuts down from undervoltage or overvoltage and youll kill the lifetime cycles.

the battery brand that @Hduke86 mentioned is actually a well built battery, as are chins and power queen which are the exact same batteries(the components are identical). kind of weird but if you have an ampere time that fails, Li time will still honor the warranty. the only failures ive heard about are when people try to use them as a starting battery.

which brings up my next point and kind of a warning. LFP's are great for deep cycle use in trolling motors and electronics, a little too great. just keep in mind the recommendations from Minn Kota, new port, etc. about using them especially on the 24 and 36v systems using the PWM and brushed motors designed for lead acid systems and in some mfd's.

no worries with the new brushless motor designs.

good luck