Stupid scope-mounting question

[BSK]

I'm sure this is a stupid question, but I haven't bought a new gun in 25 years. Is it still standard practice to Loctite scope mounts and rings? That's what I always did in the past. And if that is still the practice, which Loctite, the blue or red?

 

[Andy S.]

I use a tiny amount of blue on my screws. Priority screws are those that affix ring base to receiver. I have and have not used thin layer of blue on ring screws. If you expect this scope to be mounted (not removed) and in place for years, I'd use thin layer on ring screws, but I'd make sure scope alignment is as near perfect as I could get it (crosshair alignment and rear ocular position). Good luck!

 

[JCDEERMAN]

I was wondering the same. Just ordered a rail, rings and high powered scope to put on a 7mm for my Utah hunt in October.

 

[BSK]

Thank you Andy S. I'll make sure scope is perfectly aligned before tightening (and while tightening) scope ring screws.

It's a Leupold VX Freedom scope, Leupold rings, T/C steel rail onto a T/C Triumph.

 

[rifle02]

Blue Loctite on the screws that hold the base to the receiver. I use no Loctite on the ring screws. I have in the past and found it not necessary. Do not use red loctite!

 

[BSK]

Thank you rifle02!

 

[gtk]

Most mounts today need precise torque applied. Putting loktite on screws can mess with torque specs.

I inadvertently overtorqued my brothers vortext scope rings and his gun ran out of windage. Took off and retorqued, it worked fine.

 

[PickettSFHunter]

I use a wheeler FAT torque wrench and tighten to whatever the manufacturer of the rings says, no problems for me on dozens of rifles.

 

[TheLBLman]

I'm sure this is a stupid question . . . .

It's only stupid if you don't ask it

Generally agree with what the others have said.
I ALWAYS use a good bit of the blue Loctite on anything to do with the base, and a tiny amount on anything to do with the rings.

Most mounts today need precise torque applied. Putting loktite on screws can mess with torque specs.

I did not know that.

I use a wheeler FAT torque wrench and tighten to whatever the manufacturer of the rings says.

Same torque wrench I use, but still use the blue Loctite.
Even with the blue Loctite, I had a base screw loosen this past year.

 

[Jcalder]

Degrease everything. If you feel you need loctite use blue.

 

[Patrick H]

Once I have the scope where I want it for eye relief I draw a line on each side of scope right where one of the rings touch the scope. This serves two purposes:
1. If the scope slips when tightening the rings I can see it and readjust
2. It allows me to check to see if the scope has slipped when zeroing or anytime in the future

 

[infoman jr.]

The rokslide cult have everyone smearing fingernail polish all over their scopes. Then dropping them, but that's another story....

Degrease all threads with a q-tip and acetone. Use blue (242 or 243) loctite on the threads, and torque to spec.

 

[fairchaser]

I don't use anything anymore since I started competitive shooting. I don't think any of the manufacturers would recommend using any, but I could be wrong IDK. My point is that it's not necessary and you could end up with stripping screws should you ever need to remove them for any reason. Use a good torque driver that measures in inch pounds and tighten to the recommended setting. Occasionally check them maybe once a year and you will be good to go. If you over tighten the ring screws you could damage the internal workings of the scope.

 

[fairchaser]

I'm sure this is a stupid question, but I haven't bought a new gun in 25 years. Is it still standard practice to Loctite scope mounts and rings? That's what I always did in the past. And if that is still the practice, which Loctite, the blue or red?

I have a process for leveling your scope if you're interested. This is very important for long ranges.

 

[BSK]

I have a process for leveling your scope if you're interested. This is very important for long ranges.

Very interested, although this gun will primarily be shot at 10-60 yards.

 

[TiminTN]

100% depends on hardware included with base and rings. Torx get nothing, flat blade get blue loctite.

 

[nso123]

Do yourself a favor and order quality rings and a good torque driver. Fix-it-sticks has a good torque driver setup that's not unreasonable if you mess with your rifles much. It will let you torque rings, bases, and action screws to a known value. If you'd like to borrow one I have an extra that I can send you to get you dialed in and you can send it back.

 

[BSK]

Do yourself a favor and order quality rings and a good torque driver. Fix-it-sticks has a good torque driver setup that's not unreasonable if you mess with your rifles much. It will let you torque rings, bases, and action screws to a known value. If you'd like to borrow one I have an extra that I can send you to get you dialed in and you can send it back.

Rings are Leupold, as is the scope, but I don't remember ever seeing torque numbers for rings/base before. Or maybe I just wasn't looking.

With Leupold rings, will they come with flathead or torx screws?

 

[fairchaser]

Very interested, although this gun will primarily be shot at 10-60 yards.

Regardless of distance, you want the scope mounted level. Set the rifle up on a table or flat surface where you can look through the scope at a distance (20 yards or so)without disturbing the gun. A gun rest or vice is preferred. Get a small level ( I use a line level) and find a flat spot on the action to level the rifle. The scope cap is not level due to threads. You can use the bottom of the scope but generally you can find a place of the action or rail. Set a plumb line up where you can view it through the scope. Line up the vertical cross hair and tighten the ring screws diagonally a little at a time. Afterwards, recheck everything to make sure nothing shifted. You should be good to go. One way to verify is to do a tall target test but that's another discussion. Best of luck!

 

[BSK]

Regardless of distance, you want the scope mounted level. Set the rifle up on a table or flat surface where you can look through the scope at a distance (20 yards or so)without disturbing the gun. A gun rest or vice is preferred. Get a small level ( I use a line level) and find a flat spot on the action to level the rifle. The scope cap is not level due to threads. You can use the bottom of the scope but generally you can find a place of the action or rail. Set a plumb line up where you can view it through the scope. Line up the vertical cross hair and tighten the ring screws diagonally a little at a time. Afterwards, recheck everything to make sure nothing shifted. You should be good to go. One way to verify is to do a tall target test but that's another discussion. Best of luck!

Fascinating. Thanks.

 

[BuckWild]

I've never used loctite on any scope screws in 50 plus years of hunting.

Never had any issues.

 

[BSK]

I've never used loctite on any scope screws in 50 plus years of hunting.

Never had any issues.

I have had a scope come loose on an MZ before. Cost me a deer.

 

[marty d]

Do yourself a favor and order quality rings and a good torque driver. Fix-it-sticks has a good torque driver setup that's not unreasonable if you mess with your rifles much. It will let you torque rings, bases, and action screws to a known value. If you'd like to borrow one I have an extra that I can send you to get you dialed in and you can send it back.

I agree 110%. Yes, blue locTite works and def stay away from the red but if you really want it correct (I say that because a slightly over tightened mount or ring may cause a shift that makes it almost impossible to find and get the accuracy you should. Basically, you will be chasing holes) get you a proper torque wrench and a scope level and put it on with the manufacturers specs. If you do you won't need locTite but no matter what don't use red…. Torqued properly you will get the best groups capable from you firearm. That goes from a well built rifle for distance to an rimfire set up to plink cans with.

 

[nso123]

Rings are Leupold, as is the scope, but I don't remember ever seeing torque numbers for rings/base before. Or maybe I just wasn't looking.

With Leupold rings, will they come with flathead or torx screws?

Leupold rings usually come with torx. 18 in-lbs is pretty common on rings, but I'm sure they have the specs online somewhere.

 

[Patrick H]

BSK, Leupold rings come with instructions which include the torque pounds. They may also be available on line. If you can't find them let me know as I have the instructions somewhere.

 

[rifle02]

Leupold rings usually come with torx. 18 in-lbs is pretty common on rings, but I'm sure they have the specs online somewhere.

Also to address the original question, I've noticed many times Leupold base screws come with a drop of plastic type thread Locker already on the threads. It's not a liquid, it is blue. Something like maybe vibratite. But it's pre-applied right out of the package.

 

[TnKen]

 

[MUP]

Myself, I don't use loctite, just torque the screws to spec, after using a similar technique as @fairchaser to align and mount the scope atop the action. Just check them each season and you should be fine. It's what we all should do anyway as we get ready to shoot or hunt.

 

[BSK]

Leupold rings usually come with torx. 18 in-lbs is pretty common on rings, but I'm sure they have the specs online somewhere.

Thank you!

 

[BSK]

BSK, Leupold rings come with instructions which include the torque pounds. They may also be available on line. If you can't find them let me know as I have the instructions somewhere.

Will do. Thank you.