January Hack and Squirt

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TN Whitetail Freak

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Is it too late in the year to perform this TSI? I have 45 acres im wanting to produce bedding cover and was wanting to hack and squirt small portion of timber mainly sweetgum, sycamore and pecan and american beech leaving the oaks alone. Will this method work this late in the winter when trees are dormant
 
TN Whitetail Freak":2qfjyi5m said:
Is it too late in the year to perform this TSI? I have 45 acres im wanting to produce bedding cover and was wanting to hack and squirt small portion of timber mainly sweetgum, sycamore and pecan and american beech leaving the oaks alone. Will this method work this late in the winter when trees are dormant

I've had the same question before and found the following information on TSI:

hack-n-squirt is effective almost any season except early spring when you have that heavy sap flow and sap rise, it can wash the herbicide right out of the cut. Otherwise, late winter, summer and fall are fine. In the South, the sap starts flowing in March or into April. It will start later in the North.

Another timing factor is rainfall. Do not apply herbicide if rainfall is forecasted. Rainfall within a day or two of the application can wash the herbicide out of the cut.


It's my understanding that the Basal bark herbicide application is also effective any time of year but I don't have much experience with the method. I have read more chemical is used with the basal spray method so cost of application could be something to consider depending on the number of stems to be treated.

Allot of published information online that goes into much more detail....types of herbicides, etc.....hope this helps.

Good luck on your habitat improvements!!
 
As mentioned, as long as it is before sap upflow in early spring, you should be fine. I plan to do some work in January and February. Good luck!
 
Boll Weevil":z8lurygw said:
Did some h&s today and will really cover some ground over the next 60 days...both basal spray and h&s.
What percentage of mixture do you use for both methods? Also, which herbicide?
 
JCDEERMAN":2p0ny3rx said:
Boll Weevil":2p0ny3rx said:
Did some h&s today and will really cover some ground over the next 60 days...both basal spray and h&s.
What percentage of mixture do you use for both methods? Also, which herbicide?
A part Garlon4 (the ester) + 4 parts diesel. Both methods same recipe.
 
Boll Weevil":3luvf6vd said:
JCDEERMAN":3luvf6vd said:
Boll Weevil":3luvf6vd said:
Did some h&s today and will really cover some ground over the next 60 days...both basal spray and h&s.
What percentage of mixture do you use for both methods? Also, which herbicide?
A part Garlon4 (the ester) + 4 parts diesel. Both methods same recipe.

If you're using ester and diesel, you don't need to bother with hacks.

Hack and squirt uses the amine formulation of triclopyr (Garlon 3a for example) or forestry glyphosate 50/50 with water, or a 10% solution of imazapyr. I usually skip a hatchet blade width between cuts.
 
Micks absolutely right. Diesel as a bark penetrant/carrier makes hacking (esp on thin skinned trees) much less of a requirement. Thicker barked trees you gotta get to the cambium layer.
 
If I'm killing bigger stuff, say over 3-4", I'm hacking. Basal oil shines when you have a lot of small stems, such as a privet or autumn olive thicket that you don't want to wade.
 
Thanks...and you don't have to worry about putting diesel in your backpack sprayer? I've never basal sprayed.

So with H&S, 10% imazapyr and 90% water will do the trick correct?
 
Imazapyr is $$$ unless you have some left over from another project.

I do basal bark through the cheap 1-1.5 garden sprayers, not a good backpack sprayer. It goes further than you'd think.
 
Thanks guys. I have some experience in this but not a whole lot. I have some big projects to tackle. Plan on H&S with triclopyr. Mainly to kill saplings and ankle sized trees in several year old select cuts.

When our select cuts being done now are finished , I'll be walking and spraying all stumps
 
I use imazapur myself for hack and squirt and it's done well. I bought a gallon off amazon of the 4sl which is the stronger for 150. It really goes along way and does a good job. The biggest thing is read the label and see what it treats and the ratios. My only hesitation doing it right now is the weather. I think in the fall you get a better response because all the sap is flowing down. I would assume most of The sap is already where it'll be waiting for spring. Also I have noticed that with the warmer days some things are wanting to bud so I would keep that in mind. I've had success with hack and squirt on privet, but it's more of an evergreen this time of year.
 
Boll Weevil":3kzb68yu said:
JCDEERMAN":3kzb68yu said:
Boll Weevil":3kzb68yu said:
Did some h&s today and will really cover some ground over the next 60 days...both basal spray and h&s.
What percentage of mixture do you use for both methods? Also, which herbicide?
A part Garlon4 (the ester) + 4 parts diesel. Both methods same recipe.
Would this mixture also work on spraying stumps around the cambium layer? Or since you are using the mixture with diesel, I imagine you can just coat all of it?

So, for every 4 quarts (1 gallon) of diesel, you will add 1 quart of Garlon4, correct?
 
Assuming you are talking about painting the top of a freshly cut stem, yes it works. Regarding the mixing rate, correct.
 
Boll Weevil":1jb7wrgv said:
Assuming you are talking about painting the top of a freshly cut stem, yes it works. Regarding the mixing rate, correct.
Thanks BW!

Yea I'm going to go in after the logger leaves and spray all the stumps...about 40 acres worth :shock:

Sorry for all the questions. I want to do it right so I don't have to do it again

Once I burn another 60 acres, I'll go through and do some spraying for there too (a lot)
 
I've had good luck using Cornerstone brand "RoundUp" undiluted and applying via Hack-N-Squirt in January and February. I was killing mostly Sumacs. I made about a dozen hacks per tree and gave them each a squirt using a Windex bottle.
 
Hunter 257W":2att3oz4 said:
I've had good luck using Cornerstone brand "RoundUp" undiluted and applying via Hack-N-Squirt in January and February. I was killing mostly Sumacs. I made about a dozen hacks per tree and gave them each a squirt using a Windex bottle.
I've used glyphosate for H&S and it worked well on a lot of species, but I had a lot of trees it didn't kill. Due to the amount of acreage I have to treat this go round, I want something more potent. Don't want ANY trees treated to live :D
 
JCDEERMAN":2o1x7czs said:
I've used glyphosate for H&S and it worked well on a lot of species, but I had a lot of trees it didn't kill. Due to the amount of acreage I have to treat this go round, I want something more potent. Don't want ANY trees treated to live :D

Garlon 3 (or it's equivalent, I use Triclopyr) will get the job done. 50/50 mix.
I have had a few sweet gum trees that took a second application, don't know why. They looking identical to others with the black flowing down and the sickly sweet smell, but it just didn't take.
 
LanceS4803":1qn1kjks said:
JCDEERMAN":1qn1kjks said:
I've used glyphosate for H&S and it worked well on a lot of species, but I had a lot of trees it didn't kill. Due to the amount of acreage I have to treat this go round, I want something more potent. Don't want ANY trees treated to live :D

Garlon 3 (or it's equivalent, I use Triclopyr) will get the job done. 50/50 mix.
I have had a few sweet gum trees that took a second application, don't know why. They looking identical to others with the black flowing down and the sickly sweet smell, but it just didn't take.
50/50 mix with water?
 
JCDEERMAN":2muxugub said:
Hunter 257W":2muxugub said:
I've had good luck using Cornerstone brand "RoundUp" undiluted and applying via Hack-N-Squirt in January and February. I was killing mostly Sumacs. I made about a dozen hacks per tree and gave them each a squirt using a Windex bottle.
I've used glyphosate for H&S and it worked well on a lot of species, but I had a lot of trees it didn't kill. Due to the amount of acreage I have to treat this go round, I want something more potent. Don't want ANY trees treated to live :D

I agree 100%. I'd rather spend twice(or more) money than to invest the time and work and not kill all the trees you treat.

That's why I mix the Super Brush Killer strong when I spray foliage on the wild Bradford Pears in the Spring. I don't want to have to do it twice.
 
JCDEERMAN":14dn9vhp said:
LanceS4803":14dn9vhp said:
JCDEERMAN":14dn9vhp said:
I've used glyphosate for H&S and it worked well on a lot of species, but I had a lot of trees it didn't kill. Due to the amount of acreage I have to treat this go round, I want something more potent. Don't want ANY trees treated to live :D

Garlon 3 (or it's equivalent, I use Triclopyr) will get the job done. 50/50 mix.
I have had a few sweet gum trees that took a second application, don't know why. They looking identical to others with the black flowing down and the sickly sweet smell, but it just didn't take.
50/50 mix with water?

Yes.
Package materials say you can use straight or 50/50. I just mark my squirt bottle with lines, mix and go. I don't use any dye for H&S, but do use it sometimes for basal bark applications.
https://extension.psu.edu/using-hack-and-squirt-herbicide-applications-to-control-unwanted-trees
 
TN Whitetail Freak":2370jhu4 said:
Ive already seen buttercups and maples budding. I assume its getting too late?

I hope not!
Did about 100 sweet gums, and a dozen or so large bunches of privet, last weekend.
 
Boll Weevil":an34s0zo said:
Micks absolutely right. Diesel as a bark penetrant/carrier makes hacking (esp on thin skinned trees) much less of a requirement. Thicker barked trees you gotta get to the cambium layer.
Will this diesel and herbicide mixture kill stumps that have been cut weeks earlier? Ideally, you want to spray stumps within the hour after being cut. However, I won't have the opportunity to get to our place and spray the stumps the logger cuts until a couple weeks later. I want to prevent shoots from coming up from the stump. 3-4 weeks after the cut, will the diesel and herbicide mixture kill the stump and roots by spraying the whole stump?
 
If the bark is thin, like privet, the basal bark will penetrate the sides of the stump. Hopefully you have several inches sticking up.

It would be a royal PITA to hack and squirt very low cut stumps. The bending over to do a bunch would kill me.
 
LanceS4803":1dzwc7jt said:
If the bark is thin, like privet, the basal bark will penetrate the sides of the stump. Hopefully you have several inches sticking up.

It would be a royal PITA to hack and squirt very low cut stumps. The bending over to do a bunch would kill me.
Most trees would be mountain chestnut oak, poplar, hickory, maple, etc....I should have at least several inches to work with. I know this is a hack and squirt thread, but I was think more in the line of basal spraying what's left of the stump and on the top open cut around the cambium layer. Surely it would penetrate, but I wanted to ask the experts....
 

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