January Hack and Squirt

[LanceS4803]

I've used glyphosate for H&S and it worked well on a lot of species, but I had a lot of trees it didn't kill. Due to the amount of acreage I have to treat this go round, I want something more potent. Don't want ANY trees treated to live

Garlon 3 (or it's equivalent, I use Triclopyr) will get the job done. 50/50 mix.
I have had a few sweet gum trees that took a second application, don't know why. They looking identical to others with the black flowing down and the sickly sweet smell, but it just didn't take.

 

[JCDEERMAN]

I've used glyphosate for H&S and it worked well on a lot of species, but I had a lot of trees it didn't kill. Due to the amount of acreage I have to treat this go round, I want something more potent. Don't want ANY trees treated to live

Garlon 3 (or it's equivalent, I use Triclopyr) will get the job done. 50/50 mix.
I have had a few sweet gum trees that took a second application, don't know why. They looking identical to others with the black flowing down and the sickly sweet smell, but it just didn't take.

50/50 mix with water?

 

[Hunter 257W]

I've had good luck using Cornerstone brand "RoundUp" undiluted and applying via Hack-N-Squirt in January and February. I was killing mostly Sumacs. I made about a dozen hacks per tree and gave them each a squirt using a Windex bottle.

I've used glyphosate for H&S and it worked well on a lot of species, but I had a lot of trees it didn't kill. Due to the amount of acreage I have to treat this go round, I want something more potent. Don't want ANY trees treated to live

I agree 100%. I'd rather spend twice(or more) money than to invest the time and work and not kill all the trees you treat.

That's why I mix the Super Brush Killer strong when I spray foliage on the wild Bradford Pears in the Spring. I don't want to have to do it twice.

 

[LanceS4803]

I've used glyphosate for H&S and it worked well on a lot of species, but I had a lot of trees it didn't kill. Due to the amount of acreage I have to treat this go round, I want something more potent. Don't want ANY trees treated to live

Garlon 3 (or it's equivalent, I use Triclopyr) will get the job done. 50/50 mix.
I have had a few sweet gum trees that took a second application, don't know why. They looking identical to others with the black flowing down and the sickly sweet smell, but it just didn't take.

50/50 mix with water?

Yes.
Package materials say you can use straight or 50/50. I just mark my squirt bottle with lines, mix and go. I don't use any dye for H&S, but do use it sometimes for basal bark applications.
https://extension.psu.edu/using-hack-and-squirt-herbicide-applications-to-control-unwanted-trees

 

[JCDEERMAN]

Thanks, Lance. Great info in this thread!

 

[TN Whitetail Freak]

Ive already seen buttercups and maples budding. I assume its getting too late?

 

[LanceS4803]

Ive already seen buttercups and maples budding. I assume its getting too late?

I hope not!
Did about 100 sweet gums, and a dozen or so large bunches of privet, last weekend.

 

[JCDEERMAN]

Micks absolutely right. Diesel as a bark penetrant/carrier makes hacking (esp on thin skinned trees) much less of a requirement. Thicker barked trees you gotta get to the cambium layer.

Will this diesel and herbicide mixture kill stumps that have been cut weeks earlier? Ideally, you want to spray stumps within the hour after being cut. However, I won't have the opportunity to get to our place and spray the stumps the logger cuts until a couple weeks later. I want to prevent shoots from coming up from the stump. 3-4 weeks after the cut, will the diesel and herbicide mixture kill the stump and roots by spraying the whole stump?

 

[LanceS4803]

If the bark is thin, like privet, the basal bark will penetrate the sides of the stump. Hopefully you have several inches sticking up.

It would be a royal PITA to hack and squirt very low cut stumps. The bending over to do a bunch would kill me.

 

[JCDEERMAN]

If the bark is thin, like privet, the basal bark will penetrate the sides of the stump. Hopefully you have several inches sticking up.

It would be a royal PITA to hack and squirt very low cut stumps. The bending over to do a bunch would kill me.

Most trees would be mountain chestnut oak, poplar, hickory, maple, etc....I should have at least several inches to work with. I know this is a hack and squirt thread, but I was think more in the line of basal spraying what's left of the stump and on the top open cut around the cambium layer. Surely it would penetrate, but I wanted to ask the experts....

 

[LanceS4803]

With a live tree, you would know in about 30 days if basal bark worked. I would give it a try and see what happens.

 

[Moonman]

I hate sweet fun with a passion. My understanding is on hack and squirt that it doesn't work well in the spring because sap flowa up and ultimately only kills the tops. Doing it when sap isn't flowing up butback to the roots kills the whole tree.

 

[LanceS4803]

True, better to wait until around May. But they seem to have budded out early this year.
I'm doing a lot of real small saplings with basal bark now.
I hit some with H&S in Jan and had about 75% success rate, with the rest (big mature trees) showing significant stunting. I just whacked them again to finish them off.

 

[Moonman]

True, better to wait until around May. But they seem to have budded out early this year.
I'm doing a lot of real small saplings with basal bark now.
I hit some with H&S in Jan and had about 75% success rate, with the rest (big mature trees) showing significant stunting. I just whacked them again to finish them off.

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