Importance of lime.

richmanbarbeque

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I can see that. When I was in AZ it was common practice for me to put lime on my yard every year and watch it grow. Made a HUGE difference. I imagine the tonnage and the taste has to be beneficial to wildlife.
 

Redwing

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So what's the $$$ for the Coop Truck to come out and spead a ton? I've got about 5 acres to do. Can't find the paperwork but I think the soil test said 1.5 tons per.
 

Chaneylake

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Football Hunter said:
chaneylake said:
1 to 2 tons per acre will probably get the ph just perfect
How long does that last?

it usually depends upon the soil type, the farm that I live on has not required any lime in about 6 years, it is a creek type bottom farm with good soil, it produced 2.4 bales of cotton per acre last year, it is a non irrigated farm, we do soil samples every year
 

fourwheeler431

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Our local co-op doesn't even have a spreader truck or know of anyone who will come spread it for us. The bad thing is we are only 4-5 miles from the co-op and easily accessiable with a truck.
 

Boone 58

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Mike, you and Bsk make a great point. And also remember when soil is rated for instance at 5 versus 6 or 7 for each point downward from 7 it represents (10X).....so a ph of 4 is 20 times more acidic than say a rating of 6.....The magnitude is tremendous. In Wayne county soil in the pine tree areas always tests out at 4.9 or worse in most situations. Of the ones i have done before any liming at all it was always in that range to a high of about 5.2. Basically this was wasting not only fertilizer but seed also. Wheat was about the only thing we have ever had much luck with. After 33+ tons of lime we have most fields in the 6.2 range. Still working to get them up to the 6.5 to 7.0 range. Takes alot of lime in those pine tree soils.

Mike Belt said:
Basically, if your pH is off, any nutrient available in the soil becomes encapsulated and cannot release to aid in plant growth. With the proper pH these nutrients (fertilizer, etc.) are freed for plant consumption.
 

Football Hunter

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I dont really have a choice I dont think,it will be peletized lime for me because of accsess,but I talked to the coop guy in Lebanon,he said I could get a dollar off per b ag if I buy a pallet at a time,so 40 x 2.60 instead of 40 x 3.60.I know bulk lime is cheaper but you gotta have a way to spresd it.
 

richmanbarbeque

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FH, I agree. I would do the same. Matter of fact I may have to. I had 9.5 tons spread on my bottoms but do not have a way to spread it on the tops. I may have to do the same thing as you.
 

poles

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Ok, am I getting this right? Got 6 satellite plots totaling just under 1 acre. Had soil tests and need to add lime to all of them, timberland & pine country. Have to do the work with small equipment. I want to add the type of lime that lasts in the soil for a long time. Lowe's sells the pulverized garden lime in 40lb bags, and the pelletized lime. Is the pulverized garden lime gonna serve my purpose? If I'm understanding you guys, the pelletized lime is only good for a year and you have to redo it. Sorry for the length.
 

Football Hunter

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no,I dont think pelletized lime lasts only a year.The big difference is you cannot spread bulk or pulverized lime with a spreader,and you can with pellitized lime.You can use whatever you use to spread fertilizer to spread pelletized lime.Keep in mind that most soil reports will ask you to add lime in Tons per acre,one or two bags wont go far.
 

Luckybuck

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BSK said:
richmanbarbeque said:
BSK said:
That's a common problem richman. Too often hunters skimp on lime in their plots to pay for fertilizer, not knowing that without proper soil pH, adding expensive fertilizer is throwing money down a rat hole.

I am not a scientist but what I have been reading is amazing. Liming does far more to the big picture than I once realized. If I do one thing, I will lime.

Exactly. If budget is limited, and you have to choose one or the other, I would choose lime over fertilizer (if pH was below 5.5).
Exactly! I used to think that lime was very overrated until I did a lot of reading up on it, tried it correctly with soil samples, etc. and now I have some beautiful clover plots and my other plots are much more attractive to deer and turkeys. Always do a soil test to make sure exactly what you need. Remember also that lime needs to be worked into the soil, not just applied to the top of the ground or you could still be throwing money away and never achieving the desired effects you seek.
 

poles

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Thanks. I'm still not sure on the pulverized vs pellitized and how long they last in the soil before you have to redo it. I was under the impression the pellitized was a one year fix. You're right on the amount after soil tests. My total poundage will be just over 2300 lbs. We had some acidic soils, some down in the 5.1 to 5.4 range. We're learning, have planted these plots for the last 2 years with poor results. Checked lime this year and found out why. Live and learn.
 

Greg .

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camoman270 said:
Mike, you and Bsk make a great point. And also remember when soil is rated for instance at 5 versus 6 or 7 for each point downward from 7 it represents (10X).....so a ph of 4 is 20 times more acidic than say a rating of 6.....The magnitude is tremendous. In Wayne county soil in the pine tree areas always tests out at 4.9 or worse in most situations. Of the ones i have done before any liming at all it was always in that range to a high of about 5.2. Basically this was wasting not only fertilizer but seed also. Wheat was about the only thing we have ever had much luck with. After 33+ tons of lime we have most fields in the 6.2 range. Still working to get them up to the 6.5 to 7.0 range. Takes alot of lime in those pine tree soils.
More than you think. Each integer value is 10x, as you stated. So a jump from 6.0 to 4.0 is actually 10x10=ONE HUNDRED times!!

And yes ... acidity in soils chemically LOCKS UP nutrients.

To answer the original question, YES, I understand how important lime is. I even got an "A" in my soil fertility class at NCSU. ;)
 
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