Hack and squirt question

volsfan1976

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So I have some trees that I want to kill to open up the canopy some more. I did some last year and now need to get a few more in the same area. My question is, last year I mixed up the Dr. Craig Harper cocktail and used that. I still have about half of a 24 oz spray bottle that I used last fall. Would that still be good to use or should I dispose of what's left and mix more. I don't want to take any chances if there is really any doubt to it's effectiveness seeing as it is time consuming. Lol. I'm just not sure. Thanks guys.
 

JCDEERMAN

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So I have some trees that I want to kill to open up the canopy some more. I did some last year and now need to get a few more in the same area. My question is, last year I mixed up the Dr. Craig Harper cocktail and used that. I still have about half of a 24 oz spray bottle that I used last fall. Would that still be good to use or should I dispose of what's left and mix more. I don't want to take any chances if there is really any doubt to it's effectiveness seeing as it is time consuming. Lol. I'm just not sure. Thanks guys.
I know that mix had to be mixed in a certain order due to chemical reactions, but I don't see any reason why it would be ineffective. As long as it's not "gummed up", I wouldn't hesitate using it. Especially with the cost of herbicides, especially the Imazapyr.
 

BSK

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I've had great results killing saplings and young trees with hack-and-squirt. If had almost zero results killing big mature trees with anything other than cutting them down! Who knew killing mature trees was so hard?
 

TnKen

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I've had great results killing saplings and young trees with hack-and-squirt. If had almost zero results killing big mature trees with anything other than cutting them down! Who knew killing mature trees was so hard?
I did some experimenting last year with the big trees (Mainly beech) Girdling single, double and spraying the cuts with imazapyr. Single worked only on some of the smaller trees. Double worked with about a 40% success rate. I drilled some in 6-10" spacing around the base sloped to hold the herbicide. I had a 100% success with that method. I will now just use hack and squirt for small stuff and drill the rest.
 

DoubleRidge

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I did some experimenting last year with the big trees (Mainly beech) Girdling single, double and spraying the cuts with imazapyr. Single worked only on some of the smaller trees. Double worked with about a 40% success rate. I drilled some in 6-10" spacing around the base sloped to hold the herbicide. I had a 100% success with that method. I will now just use hack and squirt for small stuff and drill the rest.

Interesting experiment...thanks for sharing your results!
 

TNlandowner

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Two years ago, I killed several 22"-25" DBH sweet gum trees with Tordon. I used my chainsaw to cut a 3" ring around the tree around 3' above the ground. I sprayed the Tordon into the cuts and waited on the results. Every tree sprouted leaves the next spring, but none of them lived through the summer. I didn't cut them because they were growing along desirable white oaks, that I didn't want damaged. As they rot, smaller limb sections have fallen without damaging other trees. This method is slow, but worked to get sunlight through the canopy and protected other trees.
 

TnKen

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Angled downwards? What size bit were you using?
I used a 5/8 or so bit not sure exactly but bigger than a 1/2 and less than an inch. Angled down so the herbicide does not drain out of the hole. I was really surprised at how much more effective it was than the other methods. I also found it easier and safer to work with a cordless drill than a chainsaw on steep hillside
 

BSK

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I used a 5/8 or so bit not sure exactly but bigger than a 1/2 and less than an inch. Angled down so the herbicide does not drain out of the hole. I was really surprised at how much more effective it was than the other methods.
Thanks so much.

I also found it easier and safer to work with a cordless drill than a chainsaw on steep hillside
Can't tell you, once I'm getting tired towards the end of the day, how often I've had a hatchet glance off a tree and nearly take off my kneecap.
 

JCDEERMAN

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I used a 5/8 or so bit not sure exactly but bigger than a 1/2 and less than an inch. Angled down so the herbicide does not drain out of the hole. I was really surprised at how much more effective it was than the other methods. I also found it easier and safer to work with a cordless drill than a chainsaw on steep hillside
Very nice. I need to do some experimenting myself. It is always much nicer using equipment that can't hurt you. Using a chainsaw only when needed is ideal. I'd much rather walk around with my dewalt, a spare battery and a bottle. I'll try this.
 

TnKen

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I rechecked and the bit I used was just under 1/2"
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hoghunter65

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I worked for the US Forest Service in the late 70s , my job was to kill certain trees, I had a hypo hatchet which was a hatchet with a hole in each side of the blade the head has a spring loaded piston in it , the handle was hollow and a hose ran from they handle to a qt bottle you wear on you belt , we used Tordon, chopped a continous ring completely around the tree and it would be dead in less that a week.
 

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