Food Plots Food plot newbie

[lafn96]

In the process of buying a small farm; it is currently 40 acres of alfalfa. Property goes right to the base of a good sized hill that starts at the upper left hand corner of the pic; that hill is a few hundred acres of solid trees. Plan is to do a couple 1 acre food plots near the base of that hill along the property border, or put them next to those two groups of trees; and then lease the rest. Hopefully get the food plots in sometime between June 1st and June 15th. A few questions -
- Is a couple 1 acre plots enough? Split into smaller plots but more of them?
- I have an 850 wolverine UTV; will get a tow behind spreader and cultipacker. Is there a smaller disc/plow that my UTV can handle? Already have a sprayer that fits in the bed
- What do you recommend for planting? I was considering Imperial Whitetail PowerPlant
- Is there a particular beginner youtube series that you'd recommend? Have been watching a ton of videos to try and learn as much as I can

Thank you!

 

[Big Pop]

In the process of buying a small farm; it is currently 40 acres of alfalfa. Property goes right to the base of a good sized hill that starts at the upper left hand corner of the pic; that hill is a few hundred acres of solid trees. Plan is to do a couple 1 acre food plots near the base of that hill along the property border, or put them next to those two groups of trees; and then lease the rest. Hopefully get the food plots in sometime between June 1st and June 15th. A few questions -
- Is a couple 1 acre plots enough? Split into smaller plots but more of them?
- I have an 850 wolverine UTV; will get a tow behind spreader and cultipacker. Is there a smaller disc/plow that my UTV can handle? Already have a sprayer that fits in the bed
- What do you recommend for planting? I was considering Imperial Whitetail PowerPlant
- Is there a particular beginner youtube series that you'd recommend? Have been watching a ton of videos to try and learn as much as I can

Thank you!

If I had a lot of alfalfa growing I don't think I would have a need for a food plot. I've always heard (never experienced) that alfalfa is highly utilized by deer when available. I would rely on it and give them a chance to use it. May want to hear from an expert on how to make it as palatable to them as you can.

 

[Grnwing]

If you have a good stand of alfalfa, I wouldn't bother with trying to improve the food source maybe spend your effort in creating more security cover and bedding areas.

 

[Popcorn]

Ok, I have had enough alfalfa to know that it will thin down on you come august and all but disappear for the winter. Its fine for spring and early summer but late august dont mow or plow just broadcast cereal rye, turnips and radishes and annual clover then roll down what ever is standing.
Alfalfa stands must be redone every 5 to 6 years. They have a self defeating mechanism that prevents overcrowding. Its best to rest the ground from alfalfa 1 year every 5 so if your stand is old then consider an alternative crop.

Also on alfalfa, watch for the first signs of weavels likely in may tiny holes in leaves or worse then spray. This will happen 2X a year. Alfalfa likes to be mowed, needs to be mowed to keep it productive. right after blooming mow it, just take 3 or 4 inches off the top.

Focus on hunting in staging areas and behind entry points.

sounds like a sweet setup.

 

[lafn96]

Ok, I have had enough alfalfa to know that it will thin down on you come august and all but disappear for the winter. Its fine for spring and early summer but late august dont mow or plow just broadcast cereal rye, turnips and radishes and annual clover then roll down what ever is standing.
Alfalfa stands must be redone every 5 to 6 years. They have a self defeating mechanism that prevents overcrowding. Its best to rest the ground from alfalfa 1 year every 5 so if your stand is old then consider an alternative crop.

Also on alfalfa, watch for the first signs of weavels likely in may tiny holes in leaves or worse then spray. This will happen 2X a year. Alfalfa likes to be mowed, needs to be mowed to keep it productive. right after blooming mow it, just take 3 or 4 inches off the top.

Focus on hunting in staging areas and behind entry points.

sounds like a sweet setup.

Thank you!

 

[skipperbrown]

As noted above, alfalfa requires a lot of attention especially 40 ac. However, it's considered a desirable deer attractant. How old is the stand.

It's getting late for planting clover and just planting 1 ac in beans or peas will likely end up being eaten to the ground before they get started. You would probably be better off planning for a fall plot(s) by getting a soil sample and liming as necessary. Sudan grass gets about 5 to 8 feet tall and makes a good travel corridor until the first frost. You can plant it in wide rows to hide your traveling in and out. Deer won't bother it. You could plant some millet for doves and deer will eat the seed heads of some varieties at maturity.

I'd find a nearby farmer to prepare and plant your fields.

I'd also recommend contacting your local county extension agent and explaining your goals. They can be very helpful in providing information and contacts.

 

[lafn96]

Thanks for the input; found an article on a no-till that gave these two options for late summer or early fall food plots. Do these look pretty good to use as an outline for this first year?

Get Soil Test Done ASAP

Spray

- 3 sprayings of glyphosate; 4 weeks apart in June, July and August; 2 QTS/acre diluted

Condition Soil as needed to adjust PH

- Add lime and fertilizer as needed

Need 50% soil exposure

Option 1

Mid August - brassica, clover, chicory, or tillage radish, as well as rye, wheat, or oats

6 pounds per acre of a brassica blend I use from Northwoods Whitetail Seed

Mid to Late Sep - rye or wheat, 200-300 lbs per acre

Option 2

Buckwheat, 50 lbs per acre

Let grow for 7 weeks

Plant 50lbs/acre with forage soybeans

100 PPA Peas

30 PPA Oats

Cultipack it

Spray 2 quarts/acre glyphosate

4-5 weeks later broadcast 200 PPA rye

 

[Popcorn]

Thanks for the input; found an article on a no-till that gave these two options for late summer or early fall food plots. Do these look pretty good to use as an outline for this first year?

Get Soil Test Done ASAP

Spray

- 3 sprayings of glyphosate; 4 weeks apart in June, July and August; 2 QTS/acre diluted

Condition Soil as needed to adjust PH

- Add lime and fertilizer as needed

Need 50% soil exposure

Option 1

Mid August - brassica, clover, chicory, or tillage radish, as well as rye, wheat, or oats

6 pounds per acre of a brassica blend I use from Northwoods Whitetail Seed

Mid to Late Sep - rye or wheat, 200-300 lbs per acre

Option 2

Buckwheat, 50 lbs per acre

Let grow for 7 weeks

Plant 50lbs/acre with forage soybeans

100 PPA Peas

30 PPA Oats

Cultipack it

Spray 2 quarts/acre glyphosate

4-5 weeks later broadcast 200 PPA rye

This is excessive in many ways and to get this detailed there is a need for more info.
Pull your soil samples and send them off asap.
Lime now for fall value, it takes lime 6 months to begin to work,
Do you have access to a no till drill??
What and how much you plant will be determined by that.
There is no need to terminate the plot 3 times, there is likely no need to terminate the plot at all unless there is a lot of grass.
The ppa is way high and will drive your costs through the roof not to mention the poor results from overpopulation.
The methods will either be;
till and broadcast (here you might cultipack or drag)
no till drill
throw and mow or roll
and the rate will be less than half of what the above calls for.
Fall crop planted late august with no till drill
If broadcast increase rates by 30%
Cereal rye at 70 lbs per acre
Diacon Radish at 2 lbs per acre
Purple top turnip at 1 lbs per acre
Crimson clover at 1 lbs per acre

Summer blends there are many discussed here recently read a few strings and get the ideas but as a beginner, taking care of the existing crop to start would be enough and give you time for lime to begin working and to get ready with method and supply.