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Dunstan Chestnut Trees

Put my 320 Dunstan Chestnut seedlings outside today. About two weeks later than normal cause it took me a while to get my second turkey. Trees are 12" to 26" tall not including the pot. I always take the nut off so not to attract any critters to the seedlings. If you look at the pictures I cut the nut off with scissors. Then bend back the little connection growth and they pop right off. You can see if you zoom in just a tiny little sore on the trunk. It heals over in like a week.
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I'm changing things up a bit this year. Mostly because I usually have 200 trees and this year I have over 300. I use to take my trays (10 trees per tray for spacing) and put them into these wooden racks with wheels for the growing season. It put the trees at a good working height.
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Then when it gets real hot and the trees are taller and drinking a lot of water I would set the trays into a plastic container on the ground. The plastic container had holes drilled low on the sides so it would hold about 3/4" of water.


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I took my old wooden racks and attached some 2x6's. I bought some bus tubs that were smaller than my old plastic containers. Drilled holes in the tubs so they only hold about 3/4" of water. Trees are still at a good working height.

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Also fertilized trees. I use Osmocote Plus. Pink bag not the green bag. It is a slow release fertilizer and does not burn roots, trunk or leaves. This is what I use out in my orchards and it's simple cause I can pour it right into the tree protector tube.

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When planting these, it it necessary to have at least 2 of them ?

I planted 2 last fall and the deer browsed one so badly, it ended up drying.
Yes you need at least two for pollination. Chestnuts have both male and female parts but are not able to pollinate themselves. They pollinate by wind. When planted they need to be protected from deer and rabbits. When I plant I use a 40x40 weed mat so a young seedling is not competing with weeds and grass and it holds ground moisture. I use a 5' tree protector tube it acts like a greenhouse in winter and condenses when it's hot outside for a little moisture. It protects the tree from deer and rabbits. Don't let my trees branch until they are out of the tube. Then branches are for the most part out of deers reach.
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Gosh, you have this down to a perfect science @mcbuck58 . I'd love to try this
Thanks, been doing Dunstans for 9 years. Have done other trees in the past. If you do decide to try this you can contact me if you have other questions. If you want a couple of trees or more, or know someone who does, I'll be selling trees starting October 1st.
 
Thanks, been doing Dunstans for 9 years. Have done other trees in the past. If you do decide to try this you can contact me if you have other questions. If you want a couple of trees or more, or know someone who does, I'll be selling trees starting October 1st.
Could you PM me your number?
I've got a buddy who's interested in buying a few of these.

Many thanks!
 
Been working on taking some of my older trees out of the tubes and pulling the weed mats also. They now are caged with 2"x4" welded fencing that is 4' tall. You can see branches are pruned up to 5' to keep out of deer's reach for the most part. Figure the tree has enough roots that it can compete with weeds and grass. Through some ky 31 around base to shade ground and hold moisture. These trees stand good on their own but did place some support on younger ones cause in a heavy wind tree might bend and contact cage. Wind last weekend proved the support worked. Older trees I can't move the trunk to contact cage so no support.


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