bullets

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Here we go...
 
I'll throw my 2 cents in just for giggles.

IMO, shot placement has more to do with bullet selection than bullet construction. I like high shoulder shots, therefore I want/need a bullet that will hang together and penetrate. Thick jacketed Ballistic Tips, AccuBonds, Partitions, E-Tips and Barnes are my preferred bullets (not necessarily in that order). I'll give up a little expansion to gain penetration.

Others prefer heart/lung shots to minimize the amount of meat that is damaged. Cup and core, Ballistic tips/SST's and a heap of other bullets work perfect for those types of shots. Rapid expansion and energy dump.

Generally speaking though, I can't think of a hunting bullet made today that won't kill a deer with PROPER SHOT PLACEMENT. I've heard several people bad mouth a certain type of bullet because it didn't look like they thought it should when they dug it out of the animal they shot, but given it was dug out of a dead animal I'd say it served it's purpose.
 
I personally prefer my SST's with heart/lung shots.
I have hit a deer or two in the shoulder with an SST's round and absolutely destroyed every bit of meat in both front shoulders.
A well placed shot behind the shoulder in the heart or lungs, I've never had a deer run more then about 10 yards.
It's worked for me for some time now.
 
I use just plain jane cup and core Hornady Interlocks. But, I have heard the SST bullets are great.
 
You can kill deer with just about any cup/core bullet. Even piggies up to around 150 pounds, no problem, dead is dead.

Elk hide is thick. Compare an Elk bone to a deer bone. Best be shooting something a little more able to hold together and perform properly at longer distances. By longer, I mean 200 yards. Partitions are quite good. Accubonds also seem to be potent medicine but I personally have yet to bury one in an elk. And since I was born in Missouri, don't be offended but i need to see the damage an Accubond does to an elk before I load up those pills instead of Partitions.

I shot a nice bull elk with an '06 corelokt and the bull ran far enough to be killed by someone toting a 7mag & partitions.

So, be exact in your placement via the old routine of practice practice practice. Have confidence in your shooting and your bullet.
 
I have killed animals with every style bullets available. As already mentioned, shot placement is crucial with any of them. I like to swap calibers around and use different bullets in them to satisfy my curiosity. From Sierra GameKings out of a .243 , to Barnes out of a 7MM WBY Mag, to Accubonds out of a 7STW, and Ballistic Tips out of all my varmint calibers they are all equally lethal when used correctly and shot placement is ideal.

The last couple of deer I have shot with my .300WM I have been using Berger Hunting VLD's in it and man......it is devastating. If you have ever used Barnes MZ bullets in a muzzleloader, that Berger makes them bleed just as bad.
 
I quit using regular ballistic tips when they fragmented so bad. I HATE powerbelts as well for this very reason.

I use Hornady Interlocks in my '06, SGKs or Nosler Accubonds in my .270, and regular flat or soft points in my .30-30. Some will argue that the SGKs blow up, but all of the deer that I have shot with them have been pass-throughs with good blood trails and short recoveries. I used Hornady FNSPs in my ml last year and ALWAYS got good pass throughs and blood trails, but am switching to FTXs this year for higher BC.
 
To me, bullet construction is a lot like gas octane. You only buy the 93 octane gas if the compression ratio of your engine forces you to. Otherwise you are wasting your money on the more expensive gas. It gains nothing to put 93 octane gas in a 8:1 compression engine.

Same for bullets. If you are shooting a heavy for caliber bullet in a cartridge that is mid-sized for caliber, then the velocity is going to be relatively low and a cup & core bullet will do the job perfectly. Examples of this would be a 308 with 165 grain bullets. It can't push them fast enough to justify a premium bullet. Moreso for such cartridges as the 7mm-08 or 260 Rem with bullets of 140-160 grains. If you are using a 30-06 with 180 grainers, same situation.

Where I start to see a need for controlled expansion bullets is when velocities begin passing 3,000fps. OF course, the speed your bullet is going at impact is what counts, so you can get away with a more fragile bullet for long range hunting than up close shots. The bullet will slow down enough crossing a big field to survive impact and not fragment in the deer.

As far as the solid copper alloy bullets, I can't see them justified for deer except for the ridiculously high velocity cartridges when hunting in places where your shot could be up close. For example, I use the Barnes TTSX 100 grain in my 257 Weatherby in a 3,590fps load. Beyond 200 yards any bullet should hold together loaded at that muzzle velocity, but up close I personally don't trust a standard cup & core bullet to hold together at that speed.

I would absolutely trust a Nosler Partition at that velocity however. They are the best of both worlds from my observation. You get an explosive nose that opens up - transfers lots of energy - then the base retains 60% weight and punches all the way through to give you 2 holes for blood loss. As soon as I shoot up the TTSX's I have, I may switch back to my old faithful Partions. :)
 
I like bonded tipped bullets like Hornady Interbonds and Swift Scirroccos out of my faster cals. When I say faster I'm talking 3000+ FPS. I have killed a bunch of stuff with my 270 WSM and 264 Win Mag with both of those bullets doing 3300+ FPS. I don't think you need premiums for slower speed cals. I do like using premiums with smaller cals like 243.
 
My 3 "go to" bullets are this, and in no particular order.

Nosler Ballistic Tip
Nosler Partition
Sierra GameKing

All shoot great and i havent lost an animal to any of them.
 

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