kasey
Well-Known Member
what are some good broadheads?thanks
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broadheads
- Thread starter kasey
- Start date
eddie c
Well-Known Member
younghunter, there are tons of good BHs. to narrow the choices down, let's start with your equipment. you dont want to get too big of a BH for the poundage you are shooting. give us the poundage you are shooting and the type of arrows you plan on using for hunting.
kasey
Well-Known Member
bear bearcat 60"40# carbon express heritage 250s
Phil Floyd
Well-Known Member
Is your bow 40# at your draw length???
For a 40# draw weight, I would choose a good 2 blade cut on contact broadhead. There are a ton of good 2 blade heads out there. STOS and Magnus are just a couple. You will find a good selection at 3 Rivers Archery or Kustom King. Both have internet stores.
The main things are to get them flying perfectly out of your bow, make sure they are shaving sharp, and putting your shot in the boiler room.
For a 40# draw weight, I would choose a good 2 blade cut on contact broadhead. There are a ton of good 2 blade heads out there. STOS and Magnus are just a couple. You will find a good selection at 3 Rivers Archery or Kustom King. Both have internet stores.
The main things are to get them flying perfectly out of your bow, make sure they are shaving sharp, and putting your shot in the boiler room.
eddie c
Well-Known Member
I suggest getting your total arrow wieght to at least 500grs.(Trad rule of thumb, 8 to 10 grs of arrow weight per poundage shooting. this isnt concrete but a good start.)
I am assuming you are using 125gr field points. are you getting good flight with those FPs?
carbon shafts have a tendency to fly stiff out of trad bows. have you tried any 145gr FPs? I know they are hard to find but can be found. they may fly better and add weight at the same time.
ok, back to 125gr heads. I suggest to find a good quality, cut on contact type with replaceable blades. since mechanical heads take more energy to open and penetrate, I dont suggest using those, especially with your poundage.
some heads have chisel points that may or may not be sharp. you will need the point to be sharp.
just going thru a catalog that I have I see several good choices.
Simmons Sharks have several good choices.
Magus Stingers are another good choice.
Muzzy Phantoms
Thunderheads
several manufactures make solid heads that you can resharpen and have screw-in models.
go to a local shop and check with the owners on what is availble.
expand your search to include mail order supplers that cater to the trad shooters and see what choices they offer. a good number of their heads can be purchased elsewhere. get the best your budget will allow.
after re-reading my post, I know it doesnt seem to help much but you are getting a early start to help weed out your choices. keep your poundage in mind when you check the heads out. if you see a head you like but not sure about, throw the question out on here and get opinions.
I am assuming you are using 125gr field points. are you getting good flight with those FPs?
carbon shafts have a tendency to fly stiff out of trad bows. have you tried any 145gr FPs? I know they are hard to find but can be found. they may fly better and add weight at the same time.
ok, back to 125gr heads. I suggest to find a good quality, cut on contact type with replaceable blades. since mechanical heads take more energy to open and penetrate, I dont suggest using those, especially with your poundage.
some heads have chisel points that may or may not be sharp. you will need the point to be sharp.
just going thru a catalog that I have I see several good choices.
Simmons Sharks have several good choices.
Magus Stingers are another good choice.
Muzzy Phantoms
Thunderheads
several manufactures make solid heads that you can resharpen and have screw-in models.
go to a local shop and check with the owners on what is availble.
expand your search to include mail order supplers that cater to the trad shooters and see what choices they offer. a good number of their heads can be purchased elsewhere. get the best your budget will allow.
after re-reading my post, I know it doesnt seem to help much but you are getting a early start to help weed out your choices. keep your poundage in mind when you check the heads out. if you see a head you like but not sure about, throw the question out on here and get opinions.
eddie c
Well-Known Member
didnt realize it took my 30 minutes to type this out. Phil's answer is simplier than mine but is very good post.
kasey
Well-Known Member
i shoot well out to 20yds with the 125gr.how about the woodsman broadheads they only have 150gr.
Phil Floyd
Well-Known Member
There are many ways to add weight to your arrow. You can add weight up front by using 100 grain brass inserts and 125 grain steel broadhead inserts. That would make a 125 grain Wensel Woodsman weigh in at 350 grains. You could add weight to your arrow shaft by adding weight tubes or weed eater line. So adding weight to your arrow and broadhead setup is no problem. You just have to figure out which combination works for you.
I would still recommend a two blade cut on contact broadhead for 40#. The WW is a great broadhead, but IMO you would get better terminal performance out of a 2 blade head.
I would still recommend a two blade cut on contact broadhead for 40#. The WW is a great broadhead, but IMO you would get better terminal performance out of a 2 blade head.
8up
Well-Known Member
Total arrow weight should be between 320 and 400 grain for a bow of 40 lbs. If it were me I would aim for about 360gr or 9 gr per pound of pull. This will give you a better cast (flatter trajectory) Yet enough penetration for whitetail.
Now what no one has mentioned is your arrows spine. At 40#'s you would have to have a 30" arrow for it to fly right with a 125gr tip. I suspect you have a shorter draw than that which would make your arrow to stiff. If you shoot an arrow with no feathers and a 125gr feild tip I bet it would hit to the right. The carbon express heritage 250s are 11 grains per inch.
Carbon express recommends the 150's for your poundage with up to a 29" draw. A 150 is 10 gpi so if you have a 28" draw would give you a 29" arrow with a 125gr tip around 435gr including noch insert and feathers. Which is a bit heavy but might fly right.
Just my 2 cents
Now what no one has mentioned is your arrows spine. At 40#'s you would have to have a 30" arrow for it to fly right with a 125gr tip. I suspect you have a shorter draw than that which would make your arrow to stiff. If you shoot an arrow with no feathers and a 125gr feild tip I bet it would hit to the right. The carbon express heritage 250s are 11 grains per inch.
Carbon express recommends the 150's for your poundage with up to a 29" draw. A 150 is 10 gpi so if you have a 28" draw would give you a 29" arrow with a 125gr tip around 435gr including noch insert and feathers. Which is a bit heavy but might fly right.
Just my 2 cents
kasey
Well-Known Member
my arrows do have the inserts.im 6 foot and mr.jimmerson wached me shoot and he said i have a realy long draw.im thinking about the sharks i have one and it shoots well.
Phil Floyd
Well-Known Member
younghunter - pay close attention to what Keith tells you. He knows his traditional archery.
Another thing to remember. Take any advice you get on this site or any other site with a grain of salt. None of this stuff is written in stone. You have to figure out what works for you and your equipment. Some like light arrows, some like heavy arrows, some like 14% FOC, some like 22%, etc., etc., etc.......
Another thing to remember. Take any advice you get on this site or any other site with a grain of salt. None of this stuff is written in stone. You have to figure out what works for you and your equipment. Some like light arrows, some like heavy arrows, some like 14% FOC, some like 22%, etc., etc., etc.......
PO Cedar
Well-Known Member
I've always favored the 2 blade broadhead. There are several quality broadheads out there.I've always been partial to Zwickey and shoot the 2 blade Delta for my heavier poundage bows. But the Zwickey Eskimo 2 blade is a good head for the lighter poundage. I use a file broadhead sharpener and then follow up with a stone. Finally I strop the broadhead on a piece of leather. I favor a chisel point so file the points into a chisel point much like the old green Bear Razorheads were. Magnus copied Zwickey and began production in the mid-80s and the design/construction and Rockwell hardness are almost identical.
Thomas Southerland
Active Member
give the Wensel woodsmans a fair look too. I shoot 45# on most of my bows and have had more pass throughs with the WW than any other broadhead. You've got plenty of time so experiment as much as possible to find your best set up.
