Bluing Question

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backroads

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Giles Co
I've had this .410 since I was a kid. It has been neglected for lord knows how many years. The barrel has some rust and I want to try to refinish it so it doesn't look so bad and will last another 40 years.

I've been traveling a lot for work and between trips have been working on the wood. Below are pictures of what I have completed so far.

I don�t have any experience at bluing, but I would like to try it. What suggestions do you guys have? I used the wood finishing products from: http://mpi.websitewizard.com/product-list . They also have a bluing solution but I am not sure if it is any good. I am open to ideas and thanks for your suggestions.


Stock Before:
410gunwoodfinishbefore.jpg


Stock After:
410gunwoodfinishafter-1.jpg


Rust:
410rust.jpg
 
i reblued an old mossberg for my BIL with the outers cold blue kit from walmart and it turned out pretty good.
 
Get yourself a Birchwood Casey cold blueing kit and just follow the instructions to the T...............it is not very difficult, just takes patients and time.

I have used their product on several restoration jobs with wonderful results.

FDXX75
 
FULLDRAWXX75 said:
Get yourself a Birchwood Casey cold blueing kit and just follow the instructions to the T...............it is not very difficult, just takes patients and time.

I have used their product on several restoration jobs with wonderful results.

FDXX75

I thought I had patience and time. Unfortunately I didn't get good results w/Birchwood Casey. My old Rem 700 is currently with an expert gunsmith to fix my horrendous bluing job.
 
If you want a really top notch job, hot bluing is the way to go as mr. big said, but you are not going to be able to do that yourself. You will not get as good a blue with cold blue products, but I have gotten acceptable results using Oxpho-blue from Brownell's - much better than the Birchwood Casey blue. The key for any bluing is the metal surface MUST be completely clean and free of any trace of oil, including fingerprint oil.
 
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Cold Blue-ing worked for me, I had a Brownells kit.

There are a bunch of secrets: you have to clean the piece(s) to be blued way way way beyond what you think is clean. With the sonic cleaners of today if you can get the parts in one, that would be Step one for me. My first effort was a real joke, not near clean enough, same for second attempt, on third try the first coat stuck. I used the entire bottle and most of a second one. Don't use cotton balls as applicator, they streak and leave fibers.

Secret: You must wear gloves and you have to change them a lot.

Secret: Practice hanging the wet pieces. If the hangar touches the newly blued parts plan on doing them again.

Secret: You need to keep bugs/dust/etc away from it. I made a dust-free room outta dry-cleaning bags and a bunch of wire hangers.
 

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