Annealing brass ?
- Thread starter Stingray
- Start date
I do after 3 loadings.
I've begun annealing also. Had a few cracked necks in my 06 after 3 reloads so I started doing it.
Hardwoodmaterials
Well-Known Member
How are you two doing it? Did you buy a machine or make something yourselves?
I place each case in a shell holder that is held by a drill. Rotate the drill at a relatively slow speed while keeping the torch flame directed at the case neck and shoulder. Then when the temp is reached, I toss them into a pan of water to cool. It averages about 8-9 seconds for my style to reach the correct temp.
DaveB
Well-Known Member
There are some great machines for sale and quite a few DIY solutions, like what MUP is doing.
If you are talking just a few pieces of brass -say 500-a year, MUP has a viable solution.
If you are considering 4 or 5000, then you need some automation, similar to what you see being sold.
I like some of the DIY solutions.
If you are talking just a few pieces of brass -say 500-a year, MUP has a viable solution.
If you are considering 4 or 5000, then you need some automation, similar to what you see being sold.
I like some of the DIY solutions.
matt_brown
Well-Known Member
Sent from my SM-G930VL using Tapatalk
DaveB
Well-Known Member
M-B;;;
That annealer, the top wheel picks up the brass, rotates to the flame and drops it, the brass is rotated by contact with the lower wheel, which picks it up and drops it in the tray. That about right?
Different wheel notches for different calibers?
Different speed for different calibers?
That is a very smart design.
That annealer, the top wheel picks up the brass, rotates to the flame and drops it, the brass is rotated by contact with the lower wheel, which picks it up and drops it in the tray. That about right?
Different wheel notches for different calibers?
Different speed for different calibers?
That is a very smart design.
LanceS4803
Well-Known Member
I have to anneal .30-06 brass which is converted into 7.7 Jap.
I have a color indicating crayon like stick (somewhere) that turns color when the right temp is reach. Mark the case mouth, stand the case in a sheet of water and heat each piece with a torch until the color changes, then tip over into the water.
When doing a few dozen, it isn't bad, although that machine looks GREAT!
I have a color indicating crayon like stick (somewhere) that turns color when the right temp is reach. Mark the case mouth, stand the case in a sheet of water and heat each piece with a torch until the color changes, then tip over into the water.
When doing a few dozen, it isn't bad, although that machine looks GREAT!
I picked up an infrared laser thermometer at Harbor Freight the other day...gonna check my temps with it and my second count to shoot for more accuracy. I've read where 750-800 degrees for bottle necked cases is sufficient and the target temp.
DaveB
Well-Known Member
This company sells the liquid you paint on your brass and when it changes color, the brass is done.
http://www.tempil.com/tempilaq-indicating-liquids/
I think the trick is to time how long you heat the brass to achieve the color change and then you stop using the liquid and use the clock instead.
This site has a LOT of information about annealing....there are lots of opinions all over the Web about temperatures, techniques, cooling, etc.
http://www.tempil.com/tempilaq-indicating-liquids/
I think the trick is to time how long you heat the brass to achieve the color change and then you stop using the liquid and use the clock instead.
This site has a LOT of information about annealing....there are lots of opinions all over the Web about temperatures, techniques, cooling, etc.
