A question about reloading

[JohnnyDollar]

I am thinking about reloading ammo for my 40 cal but I know absolutely nothing about it so I'm looking for information about getting started including cost to get started, what I will need to get started, pros and cons. Any advice is appreciated.

 

[KPH]

First thing get a reloading manual and read it befor you make up your mind, there is more than one manual all are good. If you are doing it to safe mony or because you can't find ammo. I don't think it will help much. If you do get into it get a good friend who loads that you can call up and ask questions because you will need to. Right now some compontants for reloading have gotten as hard to find as ammo, so good luck.

 

[JohnnyDollar]

I was thinking that it would be cheaper by reloading but if its not then there is really no sense in it for me. It's not like I comp. shoot or anything.

 

[DaveB]

Need to shoot a lot or load for multiple weapons. I've been reloading since mid-80s. Some round numbers: manual, 30, dies 40, brass 100, powder 30, bullets 30, primes 35, scale 75.00 )i don' like the digitals). Figure 500.00 to get your first 300(my estimate) rounds loaded.

All my equipment has long since paid for itself. I consider it a hobby.

 

[JohnnyDollar]

Dave, thanks for the response, that's all I would consider it to be is a hobby and maybe save me some cheese along the way. I just didn't know if it would be a money saver or not. I would only be reloading for my 40cal. I enjoy shooting it but it gets a little pricey.

 

[W C]

THE reason I load is that I never have to worry whether or not XYZ Sporting Goods has any of my favorite ammo on the shelf at any given time. I know I have it on the shelf. I don't shoot much any more so the shelf just gets more boxes on it. When I'm dead and gone my son will have plenty of rounds.

 

[Hawkeye5]

To make handloading pay over time for a .40 you may have to cast you own bullets.

.40 ammo is (generally)available at a reasonable price.

I handload for a .41 Mag as the commercial ammo is scarce, limited in bullet weight and expensive ($64 for 50 @ BPS).

 

[Hunter 257W]

Another negative about reloading for the 40S&W is that it's a semi-auto and scatters brass everywhere. If you are losing 20 - 50% of your brass everytime you shoot, it will cost as much to reload as it will to shoot factory ammo. Plus you will spend a lot of money on reloading tools. As the others have said, unless you shoot a lot with a bunch of different cartridges reloading don't pay off in savings.

What Hawkeye said about bullet casting really works. Cast bullets are pennies on the dollar compares to jacketed bullets IF you can find lead. It's getting harder to find. And casting takes even more special tools that can't be justified by a casual shooter.

 

[W C]

If you are losing 20 - 50% of your brass everytime you shoot,

Anybody that's losing that much brass needs to either quit shooting, quit loading or both.

 

[fairchaser]

There are four reasons to reload.
1. They don't make it anymore.
2. Personal satisfaction of doing it yourself.
3. Improve accuracy.
4. Save money (if you shoot enough).

You should be sort of a meticulous person who doesn't mind
redundancy. I do it for accuracy and personal satisfaction.

 

[tasaman]

I will add 1 more reason. You will possibly be limited on how much loaded ammo you can possess in the future. If you reload and stock up you will always have ammo on hand.

 

[Mossy Oak]

Just a fair warning, but reloading is very addicting! I started for the sole purpose of loading subsonic .308 to use in my suppressor, now I reload all my major calibers and cast several calibers. I don't save any money but I shoot a lot more!

 

[DaveB]

Come on, it isn't addictive at all.

Just because I have over 5,000 pieces of centerfire brass, 12,000 primers, about 3500 bullets, and last count 22 pounds of powder, I can quit anytime. I started in 1985 when a box of corelokt proved to be about half bad-cost me a nice mule deer.

I can quit anytime. Soon's I try my stainless steel tumbler, get a bigger sonic cleaner, get a Dillon, build a new bench, add some more shelves, yeah, sure. Anytime.

PS every rifle I own shoots sub-moa with partitions or accubonds.

 

[KPH]

Come on, it isn't addictive at all.

Just because I have over 5,000 pieces of centerfire brass, 12,000 primers, about 3500 bullets, and last count 22 pounds of powder, I can quit anytime. I started in 1985 when a box of corelokt proved to be about half bad-cost me a nice mule deer.

I can quit anytime. Soon's I try my stainless steel tumbler, get a bigger sonic cleaner, get a Dillon, build a new bench, add some more shelves, yeah, sure. Anytime.

PS every rifle I own shoots sub-moa with partitions or accubonds.

When you quit let me know how you did it. Letus know how the stainless works I have one on my wish list.

 

[W C]

Letus know how the stainless works I have one on my wish list.

I bought a Thumler Tumbler and stainless pin media last year and never will use anything else. I haven't added anything to make the brass bright and shiny but it sure cleans the cases and leaves no blocked flash holes

 

[Hunter 257W]

If you are losing 20 - 50% of your brass everytime you shoot,

Anybody that's losing that much brass needs to either quit shooting, quit loading or both.

Unless you shoot only on a range with concrete or dirt around benches, you'll do good to find more than what I said above. I shoot a lot on my own land and even in very short grass, cartridge cases most always tend to land and tip with the head down leaving only the powder blackened inside of the case pointing up to see. You can look right at them and never find many. This is precisely why I don't like autoloaders.

 

[KPH]

If you are losing 20 - 50% of your brass everytime you shoot,

Anybody that's losing that much brass needs to either quit shooting, quit loading or both.

Unless you shoot only on a range with concrete or dirt around benches, you'll do good to find more than what I said above. I shoot a lot on my own land and even in very short grass, cartridge cases most always tend to land and tip with the head down leaving only the powder blackened inside of the case pointing up to see. You can look right at them and never find many. This is precisely why I don't like autoloaders.

I know a guy who paints em red.

 

[W C]

If you are losing 20 - 50% of your brass everytime you shoot,

Anybody that's losing that much brass needs to either quit shooting, quit loading or both.

Unless you shoot only on a range with concrete or dirt around benches, you'll do good to find more than what I said above. I shoot a lot on my own land and even in very short grass, cartridge cases most always tend to land and tip with the head down leaving only the powder blackened inside of the case pointing up to see. You can look right at them and never find many. This is precisely why I don't like autoloaders.

Oh, I know what a pain it is. I have a 200yd range on my property. Grass, leaves, etc. I go to a LOT of trouble to find my brass. I just about have my weapons patterned as to where they throw the brass. 2 of em throw it everywhere though and I'll usually find most and come back with metal detector later.

 

[hunter0925]

agreed,,,,,

If you are losing 20 - 50% of your brass everytime you shoot,

Anybody that's losing that much brass needs to either quit shooting, quit loading or both.

 

[hunter0925]

I put a sheet down so I can just pick it up and roll. I shoot in grass, woods, leaves, etc.

 

[Hunter 257W]

Yeah, I have a mid size tarp I was going to spread out next time I take a brass broadcaster(autoloader) out. I basically never have this problem because I mostly shoot bolt action rifles or single action pistols if we are talking about brass cartridge guns that I reload for. When I shoot my lever action 32-20, I slow shuck it so I can catch the empty. For shotgun shells, they are big enough to find when I shoot a pump and when I use my side by side with extractors only, I obviously have to take the empties out by hand anyway. I have 2 1911's that I don't like for this reason only. I just don't like chasing brass. My semi-auto rifles are either 22 rimfires or AK's which have cheap ammo available eliminating the need to reload for them - I just let the empties lay where they fall.

 

[BirdDog123]

Estimated cost to get started (equipment + powder + primer + brass) is probably around $300 if you are patient.. and thats on the low end

my advice would be to first get a reloading manual (as said by many others). then look more on forums and such.. there are even a few good videos on youtube

next I would say don't rush it and be patient. you can find good deals out there for reloading equipment but it takes time. Good presses like Rock Chuckers don't lose too mcuh value when buying used because they are built like a tank

If you really want to get reloading equipment on the cheap, start looking at pricing, then by set ups from guys who jsut want to get out of it.. keep what you need and sell the rest and turn a slight profit (remember bulls make money but pigs get slaughtered)Check classifieds, craigslist, and ebay often

lastly as far as saving money.. yes overtime you might save some.. at least over the life of your firearm.. but if that is the only reason your in it then I would not do it if I was you.

Reloading is more about obtaining optimum accuracy that just can't be achieved in the factory. it takes time, patience, and dedication to learning the safe way to load

like others say its addictive.. I find myself gathering brass, buying brass, and anything else I can get my hands on all the time. not to mention, its a great feeling that knowing before a hunt you don't have to go to Wal-Mart or your LGS.. you can just whip up 10-20 rounds and be done with it