It is a lease. We are somewhat limited on what we can do in terms of tree removal. Generally I maintain/trim logging roads that serve as access points. My thoughts were to be to really scout and try to find areas that may fit in terms of sunlight. If I am able to find those areas, what would you suggest I do for fertilization?
Not a farmer but you would need to know ph value , probably could lime it but you really need to know how much . Take a soil sample somewhere were they could do that for you, probably farm agent but don't really know. Once you've done that then you can use fertilizer before you plant whatever you are going to plant.
In the vast majority of TN east of KY Lake, the problem isn't nutrient poor soil, but highly acidic soil. If I would recommend anything (without soil samples) I would recommend throwing around some of the bagged, granulated lime. It doesn't matter what nutrients are in the soil if it is acidic. The acidity binds the nutrients to the soil particles to the point plants can't access them. Neutralizing the soil by adding lime releases what nutrients are already there naturally.
Yes. Fertilizer is expensive and does no good if the ph is off. It's like baking a cake, you can add all the sugar in a cake you want but without flour and other ingredients it won't work . Lime is cheap and takes awhile to incorporate into the soil and most areas need it especially around cedars or other evergreens.
I have cut some of my cedar thicket trees and just let lay. This makes a great bedding area. I plan on letting dry out then burn in about 2 years. Have video of mature bucks already coming from this area.I have been thinking the same. I own the property so asking the owner is no problem.Mine is either a cedar thicket or fairly open woods made up of small oaks. The property was select cut around 10 to 15 years ago but not very thick.
Any suggestions?
I put my annual rye grass out around late September to the first of October. This allows it to get started good before the leave fall. Once the leaves fall rack it off for best results. Once the sun starts hitting it it will jump up fast.
I'm sure they do! I had one dump a bunch of corn out last August where I normally sit for the velvet hunt. Just trying to think of small things to possibly lure more deer into spots.Well pretty much every hunter in the mountains around me just simply goes to the co-op and gets some yeller acorns.
I'm in a couple government programs. They come out and burn my pine stands and they came out and did a hack and squirt on all invasive trees. They take a machete, make a gash in tree, and put poison in that gash. The tree will die and fall over. It creates a mess for a couple years but it is awesome after that. You can also hinge cut trees to create bedding areas. Hinge cutting definitely works. Planting fruit bearing trees is also a great solution. I have also created watering holes. You can get water troughs and put them in ground. Put a stick in it for mice to crawl out. u can put them in areas where water will naturally drain into it
Because lime takes a while to completely activate in the soil, I would consider spreading some this spring. Elbon rye is a winter cereal grain hence it is planted in fall. It can grow 36-40" tall by the following spring. That's a lot of biomass to fall into the soil once it dies back in late spring or early summer.
Beat me to it...Well pretty much every hunter in the mountains around me just simply goes to the co-op and gets some yeller acorns.
If you are planting clover use 6-12-12 are a fertilizer with low nitrogen. I would recommend you put lime out now so it will help you fertilizer.
Bushogging strips through brushy regrowth is a great way to restart the growth process. And the young growth that comes back the next year will be less woody and easier for deer to digest.
Just don't put out too much at one time unless you have a lot of deer. Being overweight can cause some health issues.
You can contact your state forester that will come out and advise you on your property for free.
