Threaded Barrel Question

[Joe2Kool]

Just got my barrels back from threading. Do you guys use anything on the threads to keep them lubed? Whether it is a thread protector, muzzle brake, or suppressor? For choke tubes and MZ breech plugs, I've always used choke tube grease.

Thanks!

 

[Yotehntr]

Curious, what did you have to pay to have them threaded? I have a nice metal lathe and just ordered some "range rods" (they fit inside the barrel so you can indicate the barrel... centered to the bore instead of the outside of the barrel). The rods are expensive for what they are and they're caliber specific. I just got the 22 rimfire and 22 center fire. As far as threading on a lathe there's really nothing to it, just have to be particular on the set up. I've been thinking about doing some on the side, just have to check out the legal end.

 

[fairchaser]

Yes, you definitely want to use a thin coat of anti seize to prevent galding. With heat and pressure you could end up with a stuck barrel.

 

[Andy S.]

Loctite nickel anti-seize 2400 degree protection. small tube, relatively cheap, will last a long time. A little anti-seize goes a LOOOOOOONG ways.

 

[MUP]

Curious, what did you have to pay to have them threaded? I have a nice metal lathe and just ordered some "range rods" (they fit inside the barrel so you can indicate the barrel... centered to the bore instead of the outside of the barrel). The rods are expensive for what they are and they're caliber specific. I just got the 22 rimfire and 22 center fire. As far as threading on a lathe there's really nothing to it, just have to be particular on the set up. I've been thinking about doing some on the side, just have to check out the legal end.

With your lathe you could have turned your own guide pins.

 

[Andy S.]

 

[Yotehntr]

With your lathe you could have turned your own guide pins.

LOL no I don't think so. They are ground instead of cut for greater accuracy. A rod .2 in diameter has a lot of flex when you jam a cutter into it. On a rod you want to be perfectly round and the same diameter over 8" it just wouldn't happen on a lathe the material you're turning has to have enough rigidity to withstand the cut. I guess if I bought a tool grinder for my lathe ($1200) and a follow rest to keep the material from flexing ($500 for a south bend heavy 10) so I could spend $1700 and save on that $50 each price tag lol

Pic below I chucked up a .25 drill bit about 2 3/4" sticking out. You can see my bit against it and at the top my indicator zero'd out.

Here I just put a little presure on it and you can see I have .025" deflection. the accuracy of the part would be junk.

 

[MUP]

I'm a machinist, and it can be done, you would just need a live center for support while turning and Emory cloth to polish. I made some axles of .376 dia just this week, tolerance +.0005/-0.0000 on a manual lathe, polished the heck out of them to get the 32 finish required.

 

[Wiley]

Speaking of barrel threads, I don't use any lubricant or LockTite on any of mine when shooting suppressed, not even on the MAC10 when I do a mag dump. I don't shoot a lot, but a fair amount, and can tell by feel if the threads don't feel right and I periodically check the suppressor during my shooting session. I don't like the residue that LockTite leaves on threads that are on something that gets taken off pretty often. 1/2x28 and 5/8 x24 threads don't have much room for foreign debris to deposit and a cross thread is the last thing in the world that I want on a suppressor. I just make sure the threads are clean and ALWAYS put the thread protector back on.
Now, if we're talking muzzle breaks (which I'm absolutely no fan of) I would for sure use blue LockTite.

 

[Joe2Kool]

Curious, what did you have to pay to have them threaded? I have a nice metal lathe and just ordered some "range rods" (they fit inside the barrel so you can indicate the barrel... centered to the bore instead of the outside of the barrel). The rods are expensive for what they are and they're caliber specific. I just got the 22 rimfire and 22 center fire. As far as threading on a lathe there's really nothing to it, just have to be particular on the set up. I've been thinking about doing some on the side, just have to check out the legal end.

I paid $99 per barrel. I bought the can from Silencer Central, and that's what they charged to thread them. I was concerned with shipping my guns and having them damaged, lost, or not back in time to sight them in for gun season, so I talked to a local gunsmith about it. He was concerned the barrel OD was too small. I had read several things about issues with barrel threading not matching the can, so I decided to have SC thread them. That way, if there was an issue, there wasn't a third party involved leaving me screwed, pun intended.

As far as barrel OD and remaining wall thickness, I figured there have been thousands of cans installed on Remington 700s. I way overanalyzed it, but talked to different can manufacturers and hopefully I got it right!

Don't have the can yet. It's going thru the ATF approval process.

Oh, thanks to responses about applying lube. Very familiar with Never Seize. And yes, a little can go a long way!!

 

[tug]

Class 3 Machining

We are the leader in barrel threading with over 7000 barrels complete. We thread for over 60 companies & provide cnc parts for several suppressor manufacturers.

class3machining.com

All they do is thread barrels. If you want to do it yourself as a hobby. Cool. If you want it done right the first time, I would send it to Morgan.