Thoughts on Lead Sled

DeerMan66

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I went with a buddy last week to shoot muzzleloaders. He brought a lead sled. My CVA normally shoots within an inch at 50 yards. He also has a CVA. Both of us shot 3 shots and both of us shot in a 4 inch circle. It was very humid that day. Everything I can find on humidity and blackpowder says that is no effect on accuracy. I was shooting White Hots and he was shooting Blackhorn. Then I started researching the Lead Sled. I found a lot of people that think the Lead Sled is useless and sand bags are the way to go. I normally use sand bags with no issues. What are y'alls thoughts?
 

KPH

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A sled will screw your groups up, a front and rear rest is best. I like to shoot off a rest to see what the gun will do, not what I do holding it that is another story.
 

Omega

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I keep hearing that, but mine has served me well. I use lead in my bags, and they absorb the recoil great, without transferring any of it to the rifle or scope. I like to zero my weapons mechanically, no to minimum human errors, and adjust myself to the weapon to make sure it shoots as well as it can. If the groups open up, it's me, not the weapon. I have zeroed my rifles in as little as three rounds after bore sighting it, and afterward I take it off the sled and fire with only a front bag to confirm the zero, hasn't failed me yet.
 

Gmed

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I use the sled more for the "one shot zero" (fire one round on target, lock the gun down in the sled with the crosshairs on the bulls eye, then "walk" the crosshairs to the bullet hole.) I'll verify/fine tune with the sand bags.
 

Rakkin6

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I know some people love them and some hate them. I use a Caldwell bag for the forestock and a squeeze bag for the rear stock has always worked well for me.
 

gatodoc

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I've used one some and didn't seem to affect my groups but I switched to sand bags for fear of scope damage. I read somewhere about a long distance shooter that uses one exclusively because of an injured shoulder and shot well.
I've got a bummed shoulder myself and may go back to a sled for multiple shots and only use bags for fine tuning.
 

TheLBLman

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I switched to sand bags for fear of scope damage.
Can anyone explain the physics of how the lead sled might contribute to scope damage?

The scope is attached to the rifle.
The rifle jerks the scope with recoil.
The lead sled reduces this jerking.

Why wouldn't this actually be LESS stress on the scope?

Now it may be MORE stress on the rifle, but the scope?
 

Omega

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Can anyone explain the physics of how the lead sled might contribute to scope damage?

The scope is attached to the rifle.
The rifle jerks the scope with recoil.
The lead sled reduces this jerking.

Why wouldn't this actually be LESS stress on the scope?

Now it may be MORE stress on the rifle, but the scope?
I'll give it a shot, no pun intended. If you put it on a sled, and use say steel weights on it, the rifle will recoil, and the energy has to go somewhere, so instead of a shoulder, it gets pushed back into the rifle. Since the rifle can take it, maybe not some stocks, the scope takes some punishment. That is one of the reasons springer air rifles are scope killers, it recoils twice, forward then back, at least that's how I understand it. If you use sand, or in my case lead shot, the sled weights absorb the energy, not the weapon.
 

Pic IN the Casa

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I keep hearing that, but mine has served me well. I use lead in my bags, and they absorb the recoil great, without transferring any of it to the rifle or scope. I like to zero my weapons mechanically, no to minimum human errors, and adjust myself to the weapon to make sure it shoots as well as it can. If the groups open up, it's me, not the weapon. I have zeroed my rifles in as little as three rounds after bore sighting it, and afterward I take it off the sled and fire with only a front bag to confirm the zero, hasn't failed me yet.
This.
I have never had an issue with mine screwing anything up.
 

kornbread

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I have both bags and a sled. I use my sled to get my guns zeroed in. Now granted I only put 5-10pd of lead shot on it. It will move if shooting a magnum caliber. Once I have the gun close to a zero mark I fine tune it off a bag. I have done this method with my 300 RUM, 300 Win Mag, and 338 Win Mag without any issues. Granted all 3 are topped with VX-3 Leupold optics.
 

TheLBLman

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If you use sand, or in my case lead shot, the sled weights absorb the energy, not the weapon.
Seems to be it would be a harder "blow" to the weapon, as the sled simply absorbs the energy that would otherwise have been transferred to your shoulder.

The sled is stopping the gun's backward movement quicker, than would occur if the rifle were simply shoulder fired.

But I'm still having difficulty understanding how this is more stress on the scope,
as it seems it might be less rather than more.

But as to the gun's action & stock, definitely more stress.
 

TheLBLman

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As far as shots not being consistent, HUGE difference in shooting hot and humid days versus cold and dry days
Exactly!
These POI inconsistencies related to weather (which also include wind) is much the reason I seldom consider a rifle shot on deer much beyond 200 yds, even though with a good rest, it would "normally" seem I "should" be able to make 400-yd shots on deer.
 
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