Shooting low

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The first 2 shots were before I adjusted. I usually shoot twice to make sure I know where im at. I was propped up on a shooting stick. Definitely will be getting a bench and a sturdier shooting spot in the future lol.
When you shoot off bench use sand bags for support of forend and barrel or a sled(not necessary) breath in exhale with crosshairs center of bullseye slowly squeezing trigger. Focus on the bullseye not the anticipation of gun going off. I am always surprised by when the gun goes off.
 
Thing is @Mama Doe most can't in the field shoot like you can at a range or a place you've made yourself off hand but you need to know your gun is on point . Knowing that if your gun is dead on gives you confidence and if you miss it's you not the gun . I've seen people set up a gallon jug of water at 25 yards and hit it to just put their gun up saying it's dead on ....from the top to near the bottom could be three inches and three inches at 100 yards could equal much more .
 
When doing a true zero check, I will ideally shoot prone or from a bench w a bag. Whatever is the most stable possible to eliminate any movement variables. Get the scope right when you are the most stable or you will be chasing it.

I would check your scope rings. Often overlooked and loose rings can be havoc on consistency. Torque to spec.

You got this! And yes, I think that's a dead animal regardless 100 and in, but I like to be 💯 sure. If I haven't zeroed a rifle recently to confirm all is well, I won't hunt w it.
 
Did you receive the gun with the scope rail already on it? Some new guns with a factory mounted rail have mounting screws with oil/grease on them, like most parts of a new gun. This prevents rust while in a warehouse/storage. I take the mounting screws out of rail, degrease, and add a drop of non-permanent loktite, clear nail polish works also and then remount, torque to specs. It's good to clean/degrease all screws: rail, rings, and any mounting hardware. This can save a lot of headaches and $ on ammo.
 
Some good advice here and a lead sled with a couple of bags of lead will certainly help take your motion out of the variability and at least show whether the gun is on or off.

One thing I haven't seen missing is to try a different bullet. I have a 7mm08 that I couldn't get to group tighter than 3 -4" at a hundred yards and finally after 3 boxes of bullets, and removing the scope and reinstalling — I was about ready to get rid of a brand new gun. I finally tried a different bullet (manufacturer and bullet style), and I was instantly shooting 1" groups.
 
Front and rear rests of simple bags of sand or other separate rests instead of Lead Sled. You can thank me later ;)
I don't have a led sled I use sand bags, on a bench. After you have to practice in off hand, sittings, kneeling and prone. Do this with out support. This is in case you don't have a fixed rest to rely on. Also depending on how you hunt practice resting on side of tree. And use your imagination when practicing.
Always expect the unexpected out in the field.
Example on year I shot a doe while going to the bathroom room lol. So like I said be prepared for the unexpected.

Never rush the shot case in point me on my last time out, I pushed a bad shot and luckily clean missed. Good luck keep
At it.
 
If you are close to dead zero in Spencer I will be glad to work with you and get you on the right track. We will get you a good 100 yard zero and maybe even get ya on out to a lil farther. Let me know if I can help.
Wanna line mine up if ya work at dead zero 🤔 I know Bill Vance
 
Front and rear rests of simple bags of sand or other separate rests instead of Lead Sled. You can thank me later ;)
Don't like sleds I take it. Mine works great, I use lead shot to fill the bags, reduces the recoil shock wave, and I also don't clamp the weapon down, so it isn't restricted. After I zero, I use a front bag on a bench and take a confirmation shot to make sure it is dead on without the sled.
 
Bill is a great guy! Come by and I'll be glad to help. I'm there Wednesday, Thursday and Sundays.
Thank you! Bill has some nice guns, miss shooting clay courses with him. I'm in Piney so close by. Im off Mondays & Tuesdays so a Wednesday would work if you don't mind shooting it yourself, I'll give ya the gun and ammo
 
Don't like sleds I take it. Mine works great, I use lead shot to fill the bags, reduces the recoil shock wave, and I also don't clamp the weapon down, so it isn't restricted. After I zero, I use a front bag on a bench and take a confirmation shot to make sure it is dead on without the sled.
Sleds take out a lot of the guess work. They are solid and dependable. They are rough on scopes and should be used to get dialed in. To confirm a solid zero.

They really do take out a lot of guess work. Takes out Poor bench rest shooting techniques and poor bench everything out for the most part.

Once a solid Zero is confirmed and a load is worked up its time to get off the bench. Period! Get off the bench and get into realistic field shooting positions rather it be from a tree stand, kneeling , braced against a tree, snap shooting or one of the many shooting positions u might be faced against in the field. I usually recommend getting a 22LR replica of the action and scope of the hunting version that u will be using in the field to be practicing with so u don't burn up expensive centerfire ammo
 
I have to disagree, sleds rarely ever give great results and then everything changes(like their zero) when they are out of a sled. I see hundreds of guys trying to zero almost weekly but learning to shoot trumps a crutch like a sled. They also jack the gun up so high most shooters can't get comfortable. Get a good front bag or a front rest that actually fits your forearm and rear bag and you will be ahead of the game. Most sleds front are generic and rarely fit anyone's forearm correctly. Once you have a good setup seek out a experienced mentor that is known for shooting, that will be priceless information you will get from them. There are many out there and willing to help others.
 
I have to disagree, sleds rarely ever give great results and then everything changes(like their zero) when they are out of a sled. I see hundreds of guys trying to zero almost weekly but learning to shoot trumps a crutch like a sled. They also jack the gun up so high most shooters can't get comfortable. Get a good front bag or a front rest that actually fits your forearm and rear bag and you will be ahead of the game. Most sleds front are generic and rarely fit anyone's forearm correctly. Once you have a good setup seek out a experienced mentor that is known for shooting, that will be priceless information you will get from them. There are many out there and willing to help others.
You may disagree, but it doesn't change the fact that using one has saved me countless rounds getting my rifles zeroed. I can't speak for anyone else, but for me, and friends that have used my sled to zero their rifles it has worked great. As long as you mount and bore sight your scope properly, it usually takes very few rounds, usually three or so, to get a good zero. Once zeroed, I take it off the sled to confirm the zero, which introduces the human element, so maybe it is not the sled, but the shooter which is giving you bad results.
 
You may disagree, but it doesn't change the fact that using one has saved me countless rounds getting my rifles zeroed. I can't speak for anyone else, but for me, and friends that have used my sled to zero their rifles it has worked great. As long as you mount and bore sight your scope properly, it usually takes very few rounds, usually three or so, to get a good zero. Once zeroed, I take it off the sled to confirm the zero, which introduces the human element, so maybe it is not the sled, but the shooter which is giving you bad results.
If you have a steady bench and sand bags it takes about 3 shots to get you close enough to actually shoot a group to check zero. A 10+ shot group will give you a true zero and adequate group size. 3 shot groups have worked but they don't really give a good representation of a typical group nor zero. Will it kill a deer at 100, absolutely. And probably even out to 300. But the last thing I worry about is sending rounds downrange when I'm on the bench.
 
Lots of good advice you've been given here. One thing I haven't seen mentioned is trying different ammo - brand, bullet types, and weight. Some rifles are very picky.

With my 300 Wby, I tried 14 different rounds before I found one I was happy with. The one it likes, my best is a 5 shot 3/4" group @ 100 yds. The ones it didn't like I was getting groups up to 4"-5". I have since found two other rounds that will shoot under 1".

Compare that to my 6.5CM; it shoots just about everything between 1" - 1.5". Cheap ammo, expensive - doesn't matter.
 
Lots of good advice you've been given here. One thing I haven't seen mentioned is trying different ammo - brand, bullet types, and weight. Some rifles are very picky.

With my 300 Wby, I tried 14 different rounds before I found one I was happy with. The one it likes, my best is a 5 shot 3/4" group @ 100 yds. The ones it didn't like I was getting groups up to 4"-5". I have since found two other rounds that will shoot under 1".

Compare that to my 6.5CM; it shoots just about everything between 1" - 1.5". Cheap ammo, expensive - doesn't matter.
Very good point. Some rifles are pretty picky.
 
If you have a steady bench and sand bags it takes about 3 shots to get you close enough to actually shoot a group to check zero. A 10+ shot group will give you a true zero and adequate group size. 3 shot groups have worked but they don't really give a good representation of a typical group nor zero. Will it kill a deer at 100, absolutely. And probably even out to 300. But the last thing I worry about is sending rounds downrange when I'm on the bench.
Sure, that works, but it doesn't negate the fact that how I do it works well, for me. Before the sled, I would shoot multiple three round groups to zero my rifle, if the three round group was tight, I would adjust the scope to the POI, if not, I would shoot another. It would usually take about half a box to zero my rifle, now with the sled I adjust my scope after each round, and usually the third is just to verify the second, and a fourth round off the sled to confirm the second and third round. I don't compete, so take what I say with a grain of salt, but I like my three round groups to be under 1", a ragged hole is not necessary, but I do have a couple rifles that are capable of that. I also shoot the third and fourth round with a cold barrel, which is what I will be shooting while hunting. I would guess that is not a thing for competition, since there is no cool off period.
 
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You may disagree, but it doesn't change the fact that using one has saved me countless rounds getting my rifles zeroed. I can't speak for anyone else, but for me, and friends that have used my sled to zero their rifles it has worked great. As long as you mount and bore sight your scope properly, it usually takes very few rounds, usually three or so, to get a good zero. Once zeroed, I take it off the sled to confirm the zero, which introduces the human element, so maybe it is not the sled, but the shooter which is giving you bad results.
I don't have bad results, I zero rifles for many guys at my job, usually after they tried the sled we have at the range and wasted a box of Ammo. Yes some guys can't shoot and only practice will help that, some guys just plain stink at shooting. I don't need a sled, if you like them then by all means use one. Carry on
 
Sure, that works, but it doesn't negate the fact that how I do it works well, for me. Before the sled, I would shoot multiple three round groups to zero my rifle, if the three round group was tight, I would adjust the scope to the POI, if not, I would shoot another. It would usually take about half a box to zero my rifle, now with the sled I adjust my scope after each round, and usually the third is just to verify the second, and a fourth round off the sled to confirm the second and third round. I don't compete, so take what I say with a grain of salt, but I like my three round groups to be under 1", a ragged hole is not necessary, but I do have a couple rifles that are capable of that. I also shoot the third and fourth round with a cold barrel, which is what I will be shooting while hunting. I would guess that is not a thing for competition, since there is no cool off period.
Who said anything about competition. All I own are hunting rifles. If you wanna use 3 shot groups, shoot 3 and measure what you need to adjust. But if you keep making adjustments after each shot you're chasing your tail. If your cold bore shots and warm shots are significantly different you have an issue.
 

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