Looking to buy first bow, need guidance

[MudIslandMemphis]

Ok so I have owned one bow before, a 2012 Hoyt Vector Turbo that I did hunt with one season (had one shot right over a doe's back), then sold it. I only bought that particular one cause it looked good, no other basis. Next season I plan on getting more involved in bow hunting in the Memphis area and plan to buy one in the next month or so to start practicing. I really have no clue where to start on looking other than I would like to stay with a Mathews or Hoyt. Not sure what exactly to look for such as dual cam, solo cam, no cam, brace height? I've googled differences and seems like opinions are all over the place. My vector turbo had 70lb limbs and my draw length was 28-28.5 I think. I know it's kind of an open ended question for suggestions but there are so many different models not to mention new models coming out every year. I know which accessories I would like to put on it, but as far as bare bow goes I'd like to keep it under 2 years old and around $500 - $600, cheaper is always better but could also pay a little extra for a newer one. Obviously the top brand new ones are $1000, but like I said there are so many different models i'm not sure which used ones are higher quality/better performing than others. Any guidance will be appreciated!!

 

[PillsburyDoughboy]

Shoot as many brands as you can and find the one that suits you the best. Don't get stuck on brands. They are all good. Most important is you get one with the correct draw length for YOU.


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[PillsburyDoughboy]

I think WE as archers all have our personal,preference on brands that we would like to shove onto others. But the fact is one size does not fit all in the archery industry. What works for me may not work for you or the next guy. Bear, Bowtech, Hoyt, Mathews Elite and Martin all make great bows that will service you well. Finding one to suit your needs you really need to shoot one to find out.

Brace heights and what not? Really has more to do with your shooting style and your intentions . Don't get too hung up on all of that. Just start shooting some bows. You will soon find out where your preferences lay.

As far as cams go single cam bows are generally speaking smoother on the draw and will be less jumpy. With that comes slower speeds. So if speed is your goal then you might want to be looking at a dual cam bow or a bow like Bowtech where you can adjust the Cams for different modes.


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[tree_ghost]

^^^best advice you could get IMO


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[gtk]

Run down I-55 to hernando, and go see Cade @ DOA Archery. His customer service is well worth venturing a few min's into North MS. pm me if you want directions/info

 

[gobblinfool]

#1 thing=Draw length

#2 thing=Draw weight......you don't need 100lbs to kill a deer...it can be done with a 40-50lb bow

 

[MudIslandMemphis]

Thanks for the info everybody. I'll try to make it down to Hernando later this week (there is a truck down there I'm wanting to look at anyways lol). I guess I was just wondering if there was an overall consensus on preferred brace heights or number of cams in regards to hunting and why one is better than the other. I have a couple months before I'll be ready to buy so I'll try to get my hands on a few before then and check them out. Thanks a lot!

 

[FLTENNHUNTER1]

Might as well do it right the first time.

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/hoyt-carbon-element

 

[MudIslandMemphis]

Whatever i get i plan on keeping it for a while, and I've learned with all other things to spend extra and buy what i want the first time or i'll be wanting to sell it and just go deeper in the hole.

 

[W.Seay]

You can't go wrong with Mathews!

 

[rj112275]

After about 20 years of shooting traditional bows, I made the leap to a compound this year. I had a cheap compound for one season, years ago, but didn't like the setup and kept shooting my recurve.

Speed has never been my end game. Shooting a 50lb recurve with 2114 aluminum arrows has killed many deer. No 80 yard shots for me. Just keep 'em close (30 yards and under for me) and be able to hit what you aim at.

Okay, so I was intimidated by all the options of cams, sights, arrow rests, etc. Archery has progressed a long way in 20 years. With plans to keep this bow for another 10-20 years, I did spend the extra and got a Mathews HTR No Cam. It's super smooth and easy to shoot. Pricey, yes. Carbon arrows aren't cheap either ($1000+ for getting everything set up). However, I don't plan to spend much more anytime soon and culled out the safe, selling an old rifle. I should be shooting well for a long time.

With that said, I looked at Bowtech. They have some bows that are fully set up with sights, rests, etc. For about $700-800.

What did I learn? Nothing is cheap any more. I could have managed to keep shooting my recurve, and will continue to mostly target shoot with it. However, these new bows are pretty slick (and costly).

Pick out what you 'must have' in a bow. For me it was easy to draw, smooth shooting and accuracy. Speed was not a factor. Good luck, and Merry Christmas!

 

[PillsburyDoughboy]

Whatever i get i plan on keeping it for a while, and I've learned with all other things to spend extra and buy what i want the first time or i'll be wanting to sell it and just go deeper in the hole.

Some of these guys have to have a new bow every season. Some trade off a bow for a new one without ever killing anything with the old one.

I think you will find it takes bow technology a good 5 to 7 years to really pass up your new purchase bow. In other words the new 360 FPS bow you buy this year will serve you and serve you well for at least 7 years without really being dated.

In 7 years or so expect some improvements in speed, quietness and let off.

Heck I just upgraded 2 years ago from a 2000 PSE and was killing deer left and right. I look back on it and think "how did I possibly do that'?" Lol




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[alaska_av8r]

Most of the suggestions above are spot on. My biggest piece of advice is to get a bow that you can tune yourself without too much hassle and the Mathews No Cam is a good example. The folks at these pro shops can slightly tune your bow meaning "get things roughly close" but to get it right you need to spend the time shooting and tweaking it as you go. And don't buy more poundage than you need, don't shoot more pounds than you can handle. What Is that poundage? Hold bow straight in front of you pointed at the target and draw straight back nice and smooth keeping the sight on the bull. If u can do that 3 times there's your poundage, as you shoot you'll build up strength and can raise the pounds up. If you have to point the bow up or push/pull to draw it, it's too much for u and will lead to bad form.

 

[PillsburyDoughboy]

Most of the suggestions above are spot on. My biggest piece of advice is to get a bow that you can tune yourself without too much hassle and the Mathews No Cam is a good example. The folks at these pro shops can slightly tune your bow meaning "get things roughly close" but to get it right you need to spend the time shooting and tweaking it as you go. And don't buy more poundage than you need, don't shoot more pounds than you can handle. What Is that poundage? Hold bow straight in front of you pointed at the target and draw straight back nice and smooth keeping the sight on the bull. If u can do that 3 times there's your poundage, as you shoot you'll build up strength and can raise the pounds up. If you have to point the bow up or push/pull to draw it, it's too much for u and will lead to bad form.

Really good advice here.

If your read archery talk long enough you are going to get bullied into going for More poundage all in the sake of gaining more kinetic energy. Because many archers are under the false belief that you need Kinetic energy to take down a white tail deer.

Truth be told many of those so called archers have never spent a 9 hour sit in 7 degree weather only to find out that the muscles are locked up and can't pull back 70 lbs like they could during the summer months. Or they do great on the 3 d circuit but
When they have to pull back silently on a deer 15 yards from them then have to hold back for 3 min because the deer jumped behind a tree their arms start to fall off.

So yes sometimes less is more.




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[jessewalker02231981]

You can't go wrong with either brand Hoyt and Mathews both have very good budget bows for $500 new. So go shoot them and the bow will pretty much pick for you. There will be one you'll like better than the other.

 

[rj112275]

+1 to Doughboy about poundage.

I've shot a 50lb recurve for the past 20 years. Fine bow. I was anxious about stepping up to a 70lb bow, that I didn't think I needed. I figure 50-60lb is fine, since speed is not my goal. To make long story short, I bought the 70lb, since t was in stock, and tuned it down to 60lbs. Perfect for me and probably where it will stay. They newer generation arrows plus the 60lb pull are light years faster than my recurve and still easy to shoot.

Also, Shelby Forest Archery was great to work with. No complaints and very knowledgeable.

 

[Mike Belt]

I wouldn't get too hung up on what brand bow to buy. There are plenty of good bows from different companies. I'd try hitting some bow shops just to see what they had and to shoot some to find out what I liked. If you're thinking of a Matthews then I second Shelby Forest Archery. Phil will be glad to work with you. Another thing is that you don't have to update whatever bow you get every time they come out with a newer and improved version. At one time I was buying a new bow every couple of years. That can get expensive quick. Get you a good bow to begin with and you can enjoy killing deer with it for years to come. If it's a good bow to begin with any improvements they come along with afterwards may make them a little faster or smoother or lighter but won't kill a deer any deader than the one you're looking for now.

 

[huntforme7909]

all very good advice......shoot as many bows as you can find in your price range and I promise that one or two will stand out above the rest as far as being comfortable for you.....really no need, although we all do, to get caught up in the brand names because almost all bows now are very good and will do very good killing a deer...but pick what you are comfortable with above all other things that you look at in my opinion....I need to actually broaden my horizons as well...I have been a die hard hoyt fan since the mid 80s....ive have owned and shot other bows but none seem to impress me as much as hoyt....just bought a new defiant turbo and it is sweet....but maybe I should have took my own advice and shot some other brands just to see...guess im a creature of habit....