helpful info (hopefully)

[eddie c]

If the arrow is shooting stiff you raise the brace height.

If the arrow is shooting weak you lower the brace height.

This is especially true when a bow is already holding the arrow outside of center to start with.

The reason a lower brace height will compensate for a weak arrow is due to the outward (away from the riser) increase of the angle of the arrow.

The reason a higher brace height will compensate for a stiff arrow is it decreases that outward angle.

Bare in mind however, this procedure is only for fine tuning minor stiffness or weakness. The primary spine tuning should be done with arrow changes, and strike plate thickness changes.

The old longer power stroke & faster bow by lowering brace height thing is a wives tale. The only way you are going to increase energy/string speed by lowering the brace height is if the brace height of the bow is above where it's best preload is.

The bottom line is, the arrow is going to shoot the fastest when it leaves the string where the bow places the highest in line stress/preload on the string. Any change up or down from that point, and the string speed, thus the arrow speed will be slower.

Here is a picture illustrating the angle change of the arrow as explained above

 

[Stykbow]

That's good info to have out there Eddie. Lots of people forget that you can tune a bow to the arrow you want. It doesn't have to be the other way around.

 

[eddie c]

That's good info to have out there Eddie. Lots of people forget that you can tune a bow to the arrow you want. It doesn't have to be the other way around.

I also read this in the same thread(summarized) :

when using the arrow/shaft chart, remember that it is a suggested shaft size. if it works out perfectly in the beginning, consider yourself lucky. experimentation in shaft length, point weight, brace height, type of string material is usually necessary. factors such as the shooter's ability for a clean release, type of rest, riser cut comes into play. same bow + different shooter = different results. for new shooters, finding an arrow that isn't flying sideways out of the bow is the first goal and is usually good enough. fine tuning comes later, if so inclined to do so.

my experience: there is a LOT of advise and suggestions on how to do (whatever). don't forget what is working for you when you try something different, that way you can go back to what worked. what worked for "Him" didn't work for me so I go back to what worked for ME. it's easier to lose sight of where you were, just try to remember where that was. the best piece of advise I ever got, from several folks, was HAVE FUN. when I came to terms that I will never be an Olympic shooter, I became a better shooter by just HAVING FUN.