Eddie

southernhunter

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I am getting better with my recurve at least more consistent. today I was shooting one of the gt 500 bare shaft. I am shooting. a left hand 40 lb@28 ( but I am drawing 30")Samick journey recurve . brace is set at 8" , and it has a fast flight string . I am consistently getting a nock right in flight that never recovers and lands on target nock right . I shot it 20 to 30 times today @ 30 yards. I could clearly see arrow in flight nock right all the way to targets every time . the shafts are still full length with a 125 tip. since I am at 30 inch draw I can cut very little off and don't have a way to any way. what is your suggestion ? like I said it's consistent but is there something I may be doing wrong ? I am shooting 3 under.
 

TnTurk

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You southpaws make my brain hurt when it comes to arrow tuning, but I can try to help. LOL
Lets see...nock right for you would be the same as nock left for us normal folks, so that would mean that your arrows are weak.
A couple of questions:
1. Are they a little weak or a lot? (A little is good because feathers will stiffen them up some.)
2. How long are your full length shafts? (1/4" off can help some as will footing the point end of the arrow with an aluminum Easton shaft)
3. How thick is your strike plate? (Building it out a little bit can stiffen an arrow.)
Also, you can play with your brace height by lowering it a little and see if that helps.
I think I got all this right. Thinking backwards is kind of hard.
This may help some too: http://www.acsbows.com/bareshaftplaning.html
All this being said, make sure you are getting a good release and not plucking the string on release.
Hope this helps and let me know if I can be of any other assistance. God Bless, Steve
 

southernhunter

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Thanks I'll try to answer in order . I'd say a lot 32.5 it's a bear hair and leather strike plate unsure on thickness . When you say lower the brace height do you mean 8 to 73/4 I thought I'd need to go up say 8 to 8 1/4 to stiffen arrow ??
 

TnTurk

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You have some arrow to play with to get them stiffer. Its not uncommon to shoot shafts with as little as 3/4 to 1" past front of riser. If that's not doable, I would then focus on building out the strike plate or replacing it with a thicker one like those made from calf hair. Another option is to use a Bear weatherest which will bring the shaft farther out from the riser and make tuning easier IMO. I put them on both my hunting bows last year and have not regretted it since. I can tell you how to modify it if that's what you would like to try. As far as brace height is concerned, honestly, I have read it both ways. You may want to move it up and down a little and see if it make a difference. Up would be increasing (8-8.25), lower would be decreasing brace height(8-7.75). Let me know if any of this helps.
 

southernhunter

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thanks I shoot some again today .bares shafts nock right same as yesterday . fletch arrows some to fly good. I think I'd be better off just to forget about bare shafting. I am just concerned I ain't getting the best accuracy out of my fletch arrows. though they seem to group ok when I do my part
 

TnTurk

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Where does your bare shafts hit vs. where your fletched arrows hit on the target? Do they group the same or do they impact the target right, left, high or low?
 

eddie c

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Tnturk covered you better than I could have. I never really got very technical with my tuning. After busting a couple of shafts bare shafting because they hit the target at an angle I stopped bare shafting. I read a bunch of suggestions to others requesting help that I determined what I needed to try. I figured my shaft then tried different point weights, shaft lengths and brace height until I got it tuned. The only 2 things I kept the same the whole time, anchor point and 3 under. I put a lot of work into my release. The rest was tinkering, which I still do because it's fun, until I get a good flying arrow.
 

TnTurk

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By impacting to the left of your fletched arrows just further proves what I had suspected. Building out or going to a thicker strike plate is what I would suggest you do and it would be the least expensive. Also, if your bareshafts are hitting lower than your fletched arrows then you might want to lower your nock just a little (1/32 at a time) until the bareshafts are hitting on the same horizontal plane as your fletched shafts. Remember, make one correction at a time. Fix the nock first then worry about the left and right issues. Learning is half the fun.
 

JOEBOY

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Here's just a few tuning parameters that may help;

For a left handed archer:
If you bare shaft is hitting to the left of fletched shafts, they're weak
Right of fletched shafts they're stiff
If you lower your brace heigth, this will increase your power stroke and make the shafts act stiffer, raising you brace heigth has the opposite affect.

If I'm not mistaken the Journey is cut about 3/16" past center, so building out the plate with masking tape or whatever, might be of some value, however, those bows will increase 3 to 4 lbs. of draw weight past 28" so you are probably shooting closer to 48 or so lbs. That bow also has a cushion plunger bushing, so you can take advantage of that. Get a 5/16 x 24 bolt and screw it into the bushing, put some velcro or one of those sticky furniture pads on the head. Then you can screw it in and out, it's a cheap was to see if adjusting your centeshot helps.

Also, try bare shafting a little closer say 18 or 20 yards. This wil tell you if you're actually dealing with a form issue or not. you can only tune as good as your form is. If your form is inconsistent, your bare shaft tuning results will be inconclusive at best.

Here's some things that can be done to stiffen the arrow:

Lower your brace heigth(already talked about that)
build out your side plate, in other words, move the arrow further away from centershot
shorten the arrows(tests have shown that shortening carbon arrows 1 inch can make them act stiffer by 5.lbs. plus or minus)
Use lighter points(although I've found over the years that less than 50 grains doesn't make that much differnence)
You can also add weight to your string(cat whiskers, more strands, serving etc.)

Don't worry if your shafts are a little weak, fletching will usually correct that.

Hope this helps
 

southernhunter

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i have one question; by lowering the brace height to get more power stroke wouldnt that make the arrows weaker ?say going from 8.5" to 8". thanks for the help and info
 

JOEBOY

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In short...no.
By lowering the brace heighth, you are in effect SLIGHTLY decreasing draw weight, and increasing the offset of the angle as the arrow leaves the string. This is actually causing the arrow to act stiffer. I know it may sound couter-intuitive, but take my word for it, the arrow will act stiffer.
 
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