arrow length?

[TN-TurkeyTickler]

what do you shoot?

been shooting full for years, just seeing if there is any benefit to shorthening?

 

[eddie c]

I shoot carbons. i figured out what weight heads i wanted to shoot and cut them down a little at a time to tune to the bow. my arrows are cut at 29-1/2, draw is at 27-1/2. i can shoot full with no issues and have done it.

only benefit to cutting shorter is to stiffen the shaft for tuning or just personal preference.

what are you shooting now? any flight issues?

 

[TN-TurkeyTickler]

I have a half dozen that I cut down to about 28.5 that are over spined for my 45lb bow. I can shoot them fine with a bare finger release but when I use my glove they come out sloppy. The full length arrow fly fine when I use the glove but they are a less stiff spine too. I've shot for a while, but Im just now getting into the science behind the arrows.

 

[eddie c]

What are you shooting?
I'm shooting GT 3555 with 175gr heads. I have no problems shooting full but just personal preference to shoot shorter. I've been meaning to try some 600spine just haven't pulled the billfold out.
In my experimenting I tried Easton, carbon express, Walmart shafts and GTs. Each seems to group to themselves so I decided to go to one brand for consistency.

 

[TN-TurkeyTickler]

I couldn't tell you the exact specs of the spines. I bought a dozen cedar shafts made by Rose city archery at a Bargain hunt store and they weren't marked. Bought another half dozen cedar arrows off amazon made by Bear archery that said they were rated for 40-45. The Rose city arrows are much stouter than the Bear ones. I may experiment with tapering the overspined shafts. I really enjoy shooting the set of tapered four fletched cedar shafts that an old bowmaker gave me. I have shot some carbons out of his bows and granted they are faster, but im just wanting to hunt with the wood arrows. Currently I am using 125 grain Zwickey Eskimo broadhead as I experiment with different shafts and lengths.

 

[eddie c]

have you thought about trying a heavier field point? i'm playing around with 125s and 145s myself.

 

[TN-TurkeyTickler]

I haven't really considered it, nor do I know the pros\cons of adding a heavier point.

 

[MickThompson]

I haven't really considered it, nor do I know the pros\cons of adding a heavier point.

Heavier heads will weaken the spine of the arrow and deliver more kinetic energy/penetration.


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[eddie c]

I haven't really considered it, nor do I know the pros\cons of adding a heavier point.

Heavier heads will weaken the spine of the arrow and deliver more kinetic energy/penetration.


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the same concept of adding point weight to carbons to weaken the spine applies to wood, and aluminum, also. same as cutting the shaft will stiffen the spine.
i think it's more critical with wood because one can't control how the wood shafts will come out of the dowel machine verse the control they have with aluminum and carbon.

 

[Grill-n-man]

I shoot 500 spine, full length, fletched with 5" shield cut feathers, Easton powerflight shafts, and 125gr or 150gr tips. Used to shoot GT trads 3555s but went with the Easton's when I needed more. They fly good out of my longbows or recurves with weights from 35 - 55lbs. Cut some down years ago, big mistake as the spine stiffened too much and had to hunt heavier points to make em work. I keep my trad stuff very simple and for me it's a waste of time trimming shafts, glueing in inserts, taking them back out, trimming again, glueing back in, etc. I like simple and keeping it simply that's why I love my trad stuff. I follow an idea a real good friend of mine who was a shooting instructor that's has since passed on gave me one time "never have a gun that's shoots a round nor a bow that that takes a broad head you can't buy at a gas station while on a hunting trip". He had been around a long time. Point is with arrow selection and point weight if one gets to involved in "tuning" ( cutting, trimming, and specialty point weights) one may find themselves in a pickle on a hunt if need something. Trad shooting is simple and a lot more fun keeping it simple that's why I keep em full length with a spine that can be stiffened or weaken by simply screwing in a different point weight. So I'd try a full length 500 spine arrow and get some 100 - 150 points and try them. The bow will tell you if you listen

 

[southernhunter]

I like shooting the shortest arrow I can safely shoot and tune to my set up. The pros to a shorter arrow is they fit in a back quiver better as there isn't as much hanging out to hang on trees limbs etc , same as a bow quiver , second there is less arrow to be effected by cross winds , third the shorter the shaft the more foc you grain, I like at least 1" in front of my riser at full draw some go as low as 1/2" but that gets pretty close to my fat fingers. Cutting arrows is part of tuning to get a good flight, but as mentioned you can play around with head and insert weight to do the same on a full length arrow. However I like to cut my Arrows short then that allows me to bump up my head/ insert weight to get my foc up But it doesn't always work out that way. Sometimes it is just what it is, drpending on the poundage of the bow , the draw length and the arrow spine you are trying to tune to a particular bow. Things like string material, the type of string silencers etc play a part as well when tuning arrows. Ultimately you just want to end up with the best tuned arrow for the bow set up you are shooting. Form and your release has to be good and consistent to properly tune arrows to the point I am talking about. Until that your better off just sticking to the recommendation of the arrow manufacturer imo