Soil Test Interpretation

[Jarred525]

Lots of information out there on interpreting soil tests. Can anyone recommend an article or source that gives more of a cliff notes version of interpreting a soil test? Thanks.

 

[Jarred525]

Here is a good link:

http://www.qdma.com/what-we-do/articles ... t-science/

One thing I don't understand is my test shows a very high phosphorous rating and they still are suggesting adding phosphorous at 30 pounds per acre.

 

[Jarred525]

Here are the results from the soil tests. I was hoping to buy one type of fertilizer in bulk to get me closer to my requirements but it appears I might have to split it up.

4 Acre Field (Planting RR Corn 3 Acres. Eagle Beans 1 Acre) - PH - 6.8 Recommended lbs/Acre N - 183, P2O5 30, K2O 118

1.8 Acre Field (Planting Oats, Rape, Peas in Fall)PH - 6.5 Recommended lbs/Acre N - 60, P2O5 0, K2O 90

1 Acre Field (Planting Chufa Most likely) PH - 6.5 Recommended lbs/Acre N - 30, P2O5 30, K2O 90)

.3 Acre (Planting Not Sure in Fall) PH - 5.0 Going to incorporate 1,000 lbs of lime and revaluate in fall. Recommended lbs/Acre N - 60, P2O5 100, K2O 40)


I am on a tight budget so I am trying to figure out what is the most cost effective way to tackle this? The lime on the .3 Acre plot is a no brainer and cost of lime will not be bad at all. Thanks for your input.

 

[Football Hunter]

doesnt look to bad,Id do what they say if you can

 

[Boone 58]

Jared , at least your ph is in the decently acceptable range of 6.5 to 7 on 3 of 4.

 

[Jarred525]

Jared , at least your ph is in the decently acceptable range of 6.5 to 7 on 3 of 4.

Yep, I was very happy about that. This is a new property my friend bought and I wish I had the quality of dirt that this property has. I have more of the typical ridgetop, rocky, poor soil areas. This is a nice change! He is on a budget so the key is figuring out how to maximize his budget.

 

[MickThompson]

Don't fertilize anything now that you won't plant until fall. You'll make the weeds really happy! I wouldn't put any N on the part of the field where the soybeans are going in either. N will definitely stimulate the grass weeds.

 

[Jarred525]

Don't fertilize anything now that you won't plant until fall. You'll make the weeds really happy! I wouldn't put any N on the part of the field where the soybeans are going in either. N will definitely stimulate the grass weeds.

Thanks, that was definetly the plan.

If I drill the 1.8 acre field in the fall, how effective is it to fertilize? In other words, would it be better for me to disk the fertilizer in and broadcast instead of doing a no till?

 

[MickThompson]

Why are you planning on drilling? and yes, it would be much better to disk in the fertilizer. Otherwise, a good rain will just wash it into the creek.

 

[Jarred525]

I absolutely love drilling seed. It is the cost effective way to go. We borrow/rent a drill every fall from the local Quails Unlimited Chapter.

Bushhog the plot/roundup/wait for the weeds to die and one pass with the drill. I highly recommend it if you have the equipment.

What we will do is roundup, spread fertilizer, disc in, maybe cultipack if the bed is not smooth, and then drill. A few extra steps but we have to get that soil right.

 

[Jarred525]

Is their any difference between potassium and potash? In other words, can I spread potash to meet my potassium requirements?

 

[Boone 58]

Pot ash and potassium are the same in that they represent the same...Pot ash is from burning logs, this was the original way frontiersman put the potassium in the soil. Now of course it is done by adding to fertilizer. If the soil is not in the proper range of 6.5 to 7 you risk the problem of it being "locked" up in the soil and the plant is unable to have access to it because of the acidity of the soil.
it is wasting fertilizer when the PH is out of wack...

 

[Boone 58]

Excellent link!