Smokeless Smokeless help

[Jcalder]

I'm looking at doing a conversion and know several of you have done this already. The cva 45-70 has sparked my interest. I know one was done early this year with muzzlebreak. I guess my initial question is it best to call Hankins or Carlos and see what they currently have in stock? If not, should I buy one and just have it sent to either of them? Can I just bypass myself and let them convert it and then it sent to me? I currently don't have the funds but depending on work I may in a few weeks. Just looking for advice.

I'm thinking it was Andy S that had the gun converted that I'm looking at. Would you go with the muzzlebreak if you done it over? Maybe go with something other than a cva? Like an HR. At this point I'm looking for options and opinions. Looking for a budget build. I love the 700 conversions but they seem like they bring a big price and that's not what I'm after at this point. Maybe in the future. Thanks


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[Andy S.]

I had the 45-70 CVA Scout V2 converted last fall. I called Carlos in NC, paid for the gun over the phone, he sent me everything except the barrel, and he sent the barrel to Jeff Fisk (bestill on Dougs) and he did the conversion. Jeff also made, sold and sent me a thread protector that screws on the barrel so I can shoot/hunt without the muzzle brake. I paid Jeff $200 to supply everything and do the conversion and $20 for thread protector. Jeff was top notch to deal with, he communicated well, and his craftsmanship is impeccable. See the link below, and Jeff's FB page. I have Carlos and Jeff's contact info if you need it. I will send it in a PM if you want it.

viewtopic.php?f=46&t=342974

https://www.facebook.com/Bestill-Creati ... 805207339/

 

[Andy S.]

My brake and thread protector.

[/quote]

 

[Jcalder]

I had the 45-70 CVA Scout V2 converted last fall. I called Carlos in NC, paid for the gun over the phone, he sent me everything except the barrel, and he sent the barrel to Jeff Fisk (bestill on Dougs) and he did the conversion. Jeff also made, sold and sent me a thread protector that screws on the barrel so I can shoot/hunt without the muzzle brake. I paid Jeff $200 to supply everything and do the conversion and $20 for thread protector. Jeff was top notch to deal with, he communicated well, and his craftsmanship is impeccable. See the link below, and Jeff's FB page. I have Carlos and Jeff's contact info if you need it. I will send it in a PM if you want it.

viewtopic.php?f=46&t=342974

https://www.facebook.com/Bestill-Creati ... 805207339/

you are the man!! I will definitely hit you up when I get ready. I'm guessing he either stocks the gun or orders for you? I don't wanna be nosy, but what did the gun cost? I've found over a $100 spread looking at them online. How is loading with the break and is there any noticeable difference shooting with the break and without (I know recoil and muzzleblast will change).


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[Andy S.]

It seems like I paid $379 shipped to my door. I recall having about $600 total in the entire conversion.

Here is a good buy on grabagun: https://grabagun.com/cva-scout-v2-break ... -shot.html

I have only shot the gun with the protector on it since I am shooting saboted loads at this point.

 

[Jcalder]

I've found it a little cheaper but not by much. I've dealt with grabagun and would again. Thanks for the help this far.

With saboted loads could you load with the break on it. Or do you run the risk of filling the ports with plastic.


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[Andy S.]

With saboted loads could you load with the break on it. Or do you run the risk of filling the ports with plastic.

I'm not 100% sure, but I think you could, but the brake could potentially cause issues with loading and accuracy. At least that is what I have read, and I can see how it could cause problems.

 

[Jcalder]

With saboted loads could you load with the break on it. Or do you run the risk of filling the ports with plastic.

I'm not 100% sure, but I think you could, but the brake could potentially cause issues with loading and accuracy. At least that is what I have read, and I can see how it could cause problems.

my initial thought was the break could be a loading aid. Kinda like the modern muzzleloader barrels having the bullet holder to start with. But I'm not sure that's a good idea depending on the threads and thickness. I'm guessing to run the break you would go sabotless. Would it be more beneficial to get one without the break? I hate to keep asking questions but would like opinions before I get a gun that could be better. I personally like a break and it may be beneficial depending on recoil


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[Andy S.]

I'm guessing to run the break you would go sabotless.

This is my plan eventually, just have not got around to it yet.

Would it be more beneficial to get one without the break?

I'm not sure. I am tickled with my setup, and how well it shoots thus far, as it will mainly be used for a woods/brush gun where shots are 100 yards or less.

 

[Jcalder]

Thanks. The place I hunt I have a realistic chance at 200 yards. Nothing over that. I've killed at 192 with an optima. More luck than skill lol. I missed another that evening at the same distance. I'm sure I'll have a ton more questions once the ball gets rolling. Thanks for your help


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[Andy S.]

The place I hunt I have a realistic chance at 200 yards.

I feel certain my setup can do it at 200, and most likely further in the right hands, just have not stretched it out that far yet.

 

[Roost 1]

Don't be concerned with recoil. It will not be any more than a .308. I'm not sure the break is beneficial with this gun shooting saboted loads.

 

[Jcalder]

Don't be concerned with recoil. It will not be any more than a .308. I'm not sure the break is beneficial with this gun shooting saboted loads.

I'm not overly concerned with the recoil. I like the looks of a break but honestly, if it's kinda useless, I'll save $100 and get one without.


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[280longshot]

Don't be concerned with recoil. It will not be any more than a .308. I'm not sure the break is beneficial with this gun shooting saboted loads.

I'm not overly concerned with the recoil. I like the looks of a break but honestly, if it's kinda useless, I'll save $100 and get one without.


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Save yourself 100.00, it's not needed from my experience.

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[GMB54]

Im pretty sure i know of a Scout V2 already converted by Bestill for 209s. I think the owner is interested in selling it. He is in PA. Nothing wrong with it and vitually new. The owner is just not crazy about the stock and shoots more Knight smokers than smokeless.

You might be able to get lucky and find a earlier Scout V2 without the brake. I think they had a longer barrel too. They made them that way for a year or two before adding the brakes. Carlos said they had the same model number.

 

[Jcalder]

Im pretty sure i know of a Scout V2 already converted by Bestill for 209s. I think the owner is interested in selling it. He is in PA. Nothing wrong with it and vitually new. The owner is just not crazy about the stock and shoots more Knight smokers than smokeless.

You might be able to get lucky and find a earlier Scout V2 without the brake. I think they had a longer barrel too. They made them that way for a year or two before adding the brakes. Carlos said they had the same model number.

if I had the cash I would be highly interested. At this point I'm trying to get things lined out to help streamline the process when it happens. If he has it still in a month or so I may be hitting you back up lol


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[tndanny]

I'm looking at doing a conversion and know several of you have done this already. The cva 45-70 has sparked my interest. I know one was done early this year with muzzlebreak. I guess my initial question is it best to call Hankins or Carlos and see what they currently have in stock? If not, should I buy one and just have it sent to either of them? Can I just bypass myself and let them convert it and then it sent to me? I currently don't have the funds but depending on work I may in a few weeks. Just looking for advice.

I'm thinking it was Andy S that had the gun converted that I'm looking at. Would you go with the muzzlebreak if you done it over? Maybe go with something other than a cva? Like an HR. At this point I'm looking for options and opinions. Looking for a budget build. I love the 700 conversions but they seem like they bring a big price and that's not what I'm after at this point. Maybe in the future. Thanks


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Jeff hankins in ky. Hankins custom rifles. Or go youtube he just converted 2 couple weeks ago.

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[hillbill]

The Apex can and does benefit from a brake but with trade offs; noise and the MUST WEAR heraing protection being the biggies
If you plan to shoot with sabots then forget the brake
I would never even think of shooting sabots again but thats just me, I shoot 275s in my .45 Apex @ 2500 fps and yes it would benefit from having a brake to counter some recoil, a brake can be bored to be a load thru style which is what I now do to all of my guns, my gun will have a brake as soon as I get a chance.
as far as accuracy goes? it makes no accuracy difference if properly installed

 

[Jcalder]

The Apex can and does benefit from a brake but with trade offs; noise and the MUST WEAR heraing protection being the biggies
If you plan to shoot with sabots then forget the brake
I would never even think of shooting sabots again but thats just me, I shoot 275s in my .45 Apex @ 2500 fps and yes it would benefit from having a brake to counter some recoil, a brake can be bored to be a load thru style which is what I now do to all of my guns, my gun will have a brake as soon as I get a chance.
as far as accuracy goes? it makes no accuracy difference if properly installed

thanks for your input. Until I get the hang of it I'm gonna go with sabots. I know doing sabotless there's a bit more to it. Knurling is a concern for me but seems like a simple process. The barrel got sent off this morning so hopefully I'll have it back at the end of the month. May try it out around Christmas if I can gather what I need and still get presents took care of lol


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[hillbill]

no need to knurl but a sizing die is a must to shoot sabotless, the ballistic advantage of shooting a sized bullet vs a saboted one is pretty big, the plastic don't help accuracy either.

 

[Jcalder]

no need to knurl but a sizing die is a must to shoot sabotless, the ballistic advantage of shooting a sized bullet vs a saboted one is pretty big, the plastic don't help accuracy either.

what kind of sizing die would you suggest. I looked at what Hankins offers but it's pricy. I'm also looking for a ramrod. I know Luke at arrowhead and Hankins sells them. Just not sure which is the better or if they're equal. Also, how important is the spin jag? I'm new to most of this.


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[GMB54]

IIRC the Swinglock sizing die is the original. Swinglock smooth is what you want. Full form requires part of your barrel to make it. Both the Swinglock and the Hankins version are around $145-160. I like a bunch of Jeffs stuff but in this case i would choose the Swinglock for slightly more.

Spinjags are pretty nice. The Spinjag bullet starter is also nice.

 

[Jcalder]

IIRC the Swinglock sizing die is the original. Swinglock smooth is what you want. Full form requires part of your barrel to make it. Both the Swinglock and the Hankins version are around $145-160. I like a bunch of Jeffs stuff but in this case i would choose the Swinglock for slightly more.

Spinjags are pretty nice. The Spinjag bullet starter is also nice.

thanks. I watched the videos both Luke and Hankins have on their sizers. Both look equally simple. I think at this point I'm gonna try the 200 gr sst and get my funds built back up before I splurge on a sizer. I'm also not so sure it's worth the cost if my max range is 200 yards.




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[mike243]

I have read that shooting sabotless will allow you to shoot without having to let the barrel cool down so much between shots,have blown sabots on a warm day target shooting.200y aint nothing for a 45 ,had thought about rebarreling my savage to 1 but may run into a doner rifle cheap 1 day

 

[Roost 1]

Go to Numrich website, look up knight take down ramrod. They cost $13.. thank me later

 

[Jcalder]

Go to Numrich website, look up knight take down ramrod. They cost $13.. thank me later

I looked at those the other day. May get em for backup.


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[hillbill]

for smooth sizing either die works great, Tom's die is a little hard to identify what setting you are on but works great, I have 1 thats 8 years old with thousands of bullets through it without a problem.

I also have Jeff's dies and they work just as well.

collapsible ramrods are the way to go, I just don't like a rod mounted on my guns any more, the Knight rod mentioned above is a good rod to keep in your pack just in case.

a spinjag made to fit the bullet you are shooting is a must IMO, you can get them from Kyle @ Pittman Bullets