Sighting in question

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Grim Reaper

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Sunday I took one of my rifles to the range to sight in. I bore sighted it a 25yrds. It took me 8 shots to hit the x. My adjustments ranged from 2 clicks to 15 clicks just to get to move a 1/2"...So after that I went to 50yrds. Same thing with adjustments I had to turn it and turn it to get the scope to move an 1/2"...At 50yrds I could not zero it in... The closest I could get to the x was 4" high...It would never go below this...Could the problem be that I have an incorrect scope base that could be throwing off my adjustments??...My groups were great I could cover them up with a nickle at 50yrds...I just could not get the scope to adjust right...
 
Not enough info. Was it a new scope or one that had been stored for awhile???.
Sounds like you have run out of adjustment..
Sometimes you need to put a few shims under the base to have it ZEROed before you go to the range..
You don't say how you boresited it ??
You can do it at home .The lazer boresiters are fairly inexpenisive very accurite and will save you a ton of time and money.
 
I avg. 7 - 10 min between shos...the scope is new...boresighted by removing the bolt and aligning the barrel with the x ring made my adjustments to the scope and first shot hit about 4" low at 25yrds...
 
Regardless of where your groups are and regardless of how long between shots and any amount of shims, if you move only 1/2 at
fifteen clicks, you got scope problems.

Try another scope and try this one on another gun. I think you
will find the same problem with it.
 
cdw338 said:
Regardless of where your groups are and regardless of how long between shots and any amount of shims, if you move only 1/2 at
fifteen clicks, you got scope problems.

Try another scope and try this one on another gun. I think you
will find the same problem with it.

Not really if he is sighting in at 25 yds, especially if the gun in brand new.

Once I get it on paper at 50 yds, I normally just start to sight in at 100 yds. I'd try that first before doing anything else.
 
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The rifle is not brand new...the scope is...it is a mauser 96 6.5x55 w/ .264 win mag barrel that was rechambered to a 6.5x55..Could the wrong mounts affect the scope adjustment increments (meaning if the scope is sitting to low in the rear)???
 
Read his quote again, he said that he had to turn and turn to get
it to move a 1/2". l5 clicks at 50 yards, if a 1/4" clicks, would have moved impact about 2" and he said it was not doing that.

Mounted height would not effect scope adjustments.
 
Grim Reaper said:
The rifle is not brand new...the scope is...it is a mauser 96 6.5x55 w/ .264 win mag barrel that was rechambered to a 6.5x55..Could the wrong mounts affect the scope adjustment increments (meaning if the scope is sitting to low in the rear)???

If the scope is too low in the rear, it would be shooting low.
 
If it took you 8 shots to hit the x at 25 yds, you should have moved out to 100 yds and it should have been an inch or two above the x. Very weird. You must have a bad scope or a bad crown.

I had a rifle that did what you are describing once. It had a Simmons scope on it. The first rifle and scope I ever owned. Took some advice and replaced the scope.
 
if your elevation is all the way up or down it drastically effects the windage tracking,,you need to get the elevation in the scope in the middle and then check you boresighting and shim the bases to get your elevation centered before trying to zero,,I`ve seen this alot on rebarreled rigs especially if it didn`t come drill and tapped for a scope and was done by a basement `smith.
 
To center the opitcs of a scope, put the objective end of the scope up to a mirror and look through the scope.

You will see the cross hairs and a reflection of the cross hairs.
Turn the windage and elevation knobs until the corss hairs and the reflectdion become one.

After doing this you scope will be optically centered.
 
The more windage you use sighting in a scope the less elevation you have available. If you have the standard single dovetail mounts you need to optically center the scope and boresight it for windage using the bases and only then worry about the elevation. Just a thought on what the problem could be. If not that it may be necessary to shim either the bases or rings to get the elevation you need. What kind of scope, bases, and rings are you using? It may be a mismatch of base to rifle.
 
on the conquest the elevation adjustment and windage adjustments are seperate and one does not effect the other,,thats why it`s a little heavier
 
mr.big: What would I use for a shim?

cdw338 & whelen man: I will have to try this...

Model70man: The scope is a simmons...so if this stuff don't work then I will throw it away..

Thanks guys!!! I will keep you posted...
 
I put a chart up onetime that showed what shim thickness would
do to your impact at 100 yards. That was a few years ago on here. It was put out by bushnell and the only place I have seen
it published. I do not have that chart here with me in Tennessee.

You can make shims from many different things, shell casings, soda cans, brass shim material etc.
 
I bet it's the scope. After owning Simmons scopes and going through what you are going through now, IMO they suck, even the Aetec's. You can group them in with the Tasco's, and Bushnell, and Alpens. You may get one or two in the group that actually hold zero, but those are few and far between. You would be better off with a low end Nikon, Leupold, or Swift.
 
this was going to be my $200 truck gun...the one that you don't really care about..so if I could get a cheap scope to work that would be great...
 
Let's eliminate the adjustment stage for one second and ask the question...............how was it grouping or were you adjusting inbetween each shot? Was it at least patterning a decent 3 shot group or just punching random holes in the paper?

It the base one piece or two? If it is two piece base was it aligned correctly (zeroed & lapped) so not to tweeg the scope tube when tightening the clamps?

Start with the basics first

FDXX75
 
FULLDRAWXX75 said:
Let's eliminate the adjustment stage for one second and ask the question...............how was it grouping or were you adjusting inbetween each shot? Was it at least patterning a decent 3 shot group or just punching random holes in the paper?

It the base one piece or two? If it is two piece base was it aligned correctly (zeroed & lapped) so not to tweeg the scope tube when tightening the clamps?

Start with the basics first

FDXX75


I could cover my 3 shot groups with a nickel...two piece mounts..
 
It sounds like you don't have a major problem other than the alignment of the scope. If you were as much as 4 inches off at 50 yards at the end of scope travel there was obviously some big problem with the mounts or scope. I've seen it where the scope tube was bent and I've also seen factory mounts that say they're for a specific rifle but required major shimming to align the scope. If you just had another cheap scope to try in the rings that and a bore sighter would tell a lot. Too bad you're not close by or we'd cure that in a moment out of my junk box. I'll just about bet it's the bases.
 
Little more info for you. Do a google search for "Bushnell shim
scope chart".

I just tried it and found the chart like I was talking about
earlier. It will give you the approx change of impact for the
thickness of shims.

Hope this helps.
 
Any results yet? I have a few Simmons scopes. I may just be lucky, but I have never had a problem with any of them....
Keep us posted.
 

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