Sidebars...?

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tree_ghost

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I am seriously debating adding a sidebar to my rig after deer season. If I do it it will be then so I can shoot 3D this spring and summer and have time to make proper adjustments in that time period so I'm ready for deer hunting in 2016. My question is how many of you use them and have they made a large impact on your accuracy? Also what knuckle and stab systems are you using (pics welcome [emoji3])? Thanks!


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Back-bars will make a difference in your shooting and more importantly in your holding. What back-bars do is dual purpose--it counteracts the forward weight of the bow and enables the pin float to become minimized and secondly it reduces the amount of torque to the bow, as more weight is further out from the centerpoint of the bow. To be honest, most of us do it to minimize pin float. It's all physics--take a pencil and move it from side to side and you'll see how easy it is and how fast it moves. Now take something about the size in diameter but longer and put some weight on the end and you'll see how difficult it is to move it side to side and you can't do it as fast.

I use two different setups: a single back-bar on my hunting bow and I run duals on my competition setup. For my hunting I use a 10" BeeStinger on the front with 4oz and a BeeStinger 8" back-bar with 8oz. I chose BeeStinger for hunting so I can have the best of both worlds--gets weight out of from the center and it offers contain dampening properties. The knuckle is from Bernie's, a guy well-known in the tournament world--it can hold up to a lot of weight, something that is problematic in knuckles.

My tournament setup is a also from Bernie's--the bars and mounts. I'm running a featherlite bars, which are the lightest bars on the market and allows the weight to be on the end, where it needs to be, and not mixed into the bar and weights--however, they have no vibration/sound dampening qualities to them but it's a target bow and I don't care. I'm running a 30" front bar with 6oz and two 10" bars on the back (the left bar has 10oz and the right bar has 6oz). I like dual bars because I can better fine tune the weight distribution. When I ran a single bactobar, I was having to run 18oz to achieve the same thing.

There are a lot of different options when choosing a bar setup. I gave my reasons for choosing what I did, but when I need or want to change, I will give the hardware and bars from Bowfinger and serious look. They are well made and owned/operated by a fellow Tennessean and he is a great guy!

I will do a second post with my competition setup because it looks like 3 pics is the limit.
 
That hunting rig is SWEET!!! Thanks for the info brother...Heard that you don't want to skimp on the knuckle for your stabs and that of all the parts in the setup this is the most crucial to make sure you have a high quality product...first time I took a peak at the pricing on those I was a little shellshocked… But as with anything in archery it's a long-term investment for me and my primary hunting weapon so I am coming around to the fact that I may need to spend more than I first thought in order to ensure that the knuckle I have purchased will perform in all circumstances and situations.


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I use a KTech side bar on my Monster. I've found that I don't have to put quite as much thumb pressure from my left hand on the bow to level it.

 
I run a B-Stinger 12"/4oz front bar and a 10"/4oz side bar, both with quick disconnects on a Shrewd knuckle. Settled my pin float dramatically and haven't had any issues with them moving at all.

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I'd think that a sidebar would be a big help if you wanted to hunt with your quiver on the bow. Right, or not?


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12" bee stinger out the front with 3 oz. , quick disconnect/10 degree down . AEP backbar mount with an 11" bed stinger backbar with 6 oz.
 
TboneD":m8n7r7ts said:
I'd think that a sidebar would be a big help if you wanted to hunt with your quiver on the bow. Right, or not?


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It definately would help with that situation, but it will help with shooting without the quiver on as well. With all of the accessories mounted on one side and forward there is added weight outside of the centerline of the bow. However, some bows are just naturally top heavy as a bare bow and will want to dip forward on their own like my former Mathews bows (Switchback, Drenalin, Reezen). Using front and rear bars with weight will counteract the weight outside of the centerline so the bow will just sit in your hand and you just have to aim and not have to use pressure in your bow hand to do what the weights will do.
 
TNDeerGuy":3un7dyui said:
TboneD":3un7dyui said:
I'd think that a sidebar would be a big help if you wanted to hunt with your quiver on the bow. Right, or not?


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It definately would help with that situation, but it will help with shooting without the quiver on as well. With all of the accessories mounted on one side and forward there is added weight outside of the centerline of the bow. However, some bows are just naturally top heavy as a bare bow and will want to dip forward on their own like my former Mathews bows (Switchback, Drenalin, Reezen). Using front and rear bars with weight will counteract the weight outside of the centerline so the bow will just sit in your hand and you just have to aim and not have to use pressure in your bow hand to do what the weights will do.

Sounds like they'd be a big help. At the least I'm going to put a Bee Stinger on my bow. The little stabilizer it came with isn't much help. Thanks.


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Added a side bar this year and wish I had don't it sooner. Best thing I've done to my hunting bow.
 

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Nsghunter":ra7tqxv2 said:
Two things
1.these look cumbersome, are they?
2. How can you tell which bars and weight combination?

They look that way, but they really aren't. There are times when they are useful. For instance, on my hunting rig when I'm waiting for a deer to come in closer and waiting to draw back I use the "wedge" between the back-bar and the bow as a resting point. On my tournament bow, I use the left "wedge" to rest the bow as I'm nocking an arrow and then judging the target before I start my draw.

As far as how can you tell what you need, that comes from experience—which comes by experience, talking to others or getting advice from the stabilizer manufacturer—or a combination of all three. Since it is based on individual feel and preference, you ultimately will use the information you gather as a starting guideline and customize the setup your liking.

One thing is for certain, it will help most shooters be able to hold and and really crank down on the aiming because it will minimize pin float.
 
I am a beginner at archery. I've shot about 100-150 shots. I do have pin float and torque grip. Are these something I should consider investing in now for hunting and practice shooting or wait until I become more experienced?
 
Nsghunter":2307eneu said:
I am a beginner at archery. I've shot about 100-150 shots. I do have pin float and torque grip. Are these something I should consider investing in now for hunting and practice shooting or wait until I become more experienced?
I'd get the form issues ironed out first. Good luck!
 
My hold is much better with the side bar. I won't ever go back.

Once in the stand I haven't run into any issues. The only time I've had "an issue" is when pulling my bow up from the ground the stabilizer can get caught on branches if it's not clear. Never kept me from getting my bow up to the stand just had to be careful.
 
Google George Ryals "How to set up stabilizers", phenomenal tutorial on how to set up stabilizers.....how much weight and things to do to make sure you have the balance done right, there is actually a formula for how much weight Forward vs what you have on the back.....and length of stabilizer also is added into this formula.
 
I'll save some the step :)

http://lukovi.com/download/Stabilizers_Balance_Bows.pdf

As far as a formula, I multiply the front stabilizer (end of stabilizer to the the riser) by the ounces on the front and then divide the length of the back bar (end of bar to the riser) to that answer and it will give me a rough estimate of the amount of weight needed for the back bar. Of course, that will only be a guide and you may need to adjust to your individual needs.
 
tree_ghost":5ri8u49s said:
I am seriously debating adding a sidebar to my rig after deer season. If I do it it will be then so I can shoot 3D this spring and summer and have time to make proper adjustments in that time period so I'm ready for deer hunting in 2016. My question is how many of you use them and have they made a large impact on your accuracy? Also what knuckle and stab systems are you using (pics welcome [emoji3])? Thanks!


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I am interested in this as well....ive talked to several that says after you get them set up and adjusted properly for your setup that you will be locked on target and much more steady....has to help...I may look into getting one too...please let me know how you like it when you get it and how big of an adjustment it is to get use too....
 
huntforme7909":2i8ct4cm said:
tree_ghost":2i8ct4cm said:
I am seriously debating adding a sidebar to my rig after deer season. If I do it it will be then so I can shoot 3D this spring and summer and have time to make proper adjustments in that time period so I'm ready for deer hunting in 2016. My question is how many of you use them and have they made a large impact on your accuracy? Also what knuckle and stab systems are you using (pics welcome [emoji3])? Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I am interested in this as well....ive talked to several that says after you get them set up and adjusted properly for your setup that you will be locked on target and much more steady....has to help...I may look into getting one too...please let me know how you like it when you get it and how big of an adjustment it is to get use too....
Will do I am looking at them now trying to narrow down my choice


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