paper tune bows

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dogman

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 27, 2014
Messages
63
City & State/Province
Humphery-TN
I got a PSE bruteX last yr ab mid oct when my old bows limbs cracked. I dint wor to much anything other then it hit where i wonted it, i did notice that my arrows dint really fly to stright but always ended up where they should. So this yr my dad and I decide to paper tune are bows, I am a do it your self kinda guy on just ab ever thing. I shot 3 times all 3 times got right tear so after reading, watching, talking to some guys, I moved my rest to the left and reshot it same thing (right tear)so i moved it same thing. Finaily I got 3 bullet hole shots, but after looking at my arrow it looks like its shooting way way way to the left, from 30 yards and in the arrow flys good from what i can tell but at 40-50 i can tell its dancing.. my question is how important is paper tuning for shots under 30 yards I hunt in the woods 30 yards is ab the max for me.
 
Paper tuning to me is about useless , I use it as the most basic step . What you need to do is set your rest back to center and maybe yoke tune the tear out .
Also your tear could be from a spine issue , grip/torque issue , or depending on your rest you could have some contact issues .
 
If you move the rest you will need to adjust your sight accordingly because your point of impact will change. If you got bullet holes after tuning your rest you will need to adjust your sight in the direction of the arrows.
 
Also shoot through paper at various distances. This will determine if your arrow is truly flying straight. Its possible to have an arrow kicking left and right or up and down but you get a bullet hole at one distance. This is because at that moment when the arrow went through the paper the fletching was correcting the flight.
 
Agree with 163. Paper tuning requires pretty much perfect form that's why someone has made the tuning machine that's shoots the bow for you. Try what 163 suggested and don't put to much into paper tuning.
 
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thanks guys kinda what i fig was just playing with it always ways looking for ways to get the most out of things but in the end i am a hunter not a comp shooter thanks
 
You'll get lots of opinions but I disagree with BH163 and think paper tuning is an important training tool.
 
UTGrad said:
You'll get lots of opinions but I disagree with BH163 and think paper tuning is an important training tool.
He stated his arrow looks like it is pointing way to the left ...... You honestly think because it is shooting a good tear its tuned ? No ... I would assume something in the setup or probably his grip is causing the perfect tear while the rest is way left . I shoot my bow through paper just to see what the tear looks like after initial setup . Usually a little nock high and left . Which tunes the best for me .

This is the problem I have with paper tuning . Everyone spends all this time getting a perfect hole through paper and then go to shoot their broadheads and they don't shoot the same .... Then you have to start making changes . When you get a fixed blade broadhead and field point to fly together "In my opinion pretty much the best indicator of a bows tune " most of the time you will find it isn't shooting a perfect hole anymore . In my observation this is why so many people shoot expandable broadheads , not because they are a 2" cut etc.. It's because after there bow is tuned to perfection in paper the expandable a shoot better . Lol I'm not saying it doesn't have a purpose , I'm just saying it isn't in my top list if priorities .

Walk back tuning is a much more effective starting point in my opinion .

But back to his issue .. His tear need to be fixed with the yokes , if its not torque or a spine issue .
 
Get some info on here about the bow. The Brute tunes pretty much perfectly by setting centershot and sometimes very very small adjustments. Most of the time I will yoke tune one with half a twist or whole one and its spot on.
What draw length?
What Poundage?
Arrow and Spine?
Arrow Length?
 
My belief is you can tune the bow to the shooter. If the shooter has consistent form, sometimes the common 13/16 center shot might not apply. IF the shooter is consistent, rest set up might be different than another person.

If they get good hole at various distances starting at 6 ft out to 15 yards, the arrow is flying straight. IMO they can screw on a broadhead and will likely have acceptable grouping with field points.

I like to shoot bare shafts at 20 yards to check tune. Shooting broadheads and field points is good as well. I think they all have their merits and can give feedback on what the shooter needs to adjust.
 
UTGrad said:
My belief is you can tune the bow to the shooter. If the shooter has consistent form, sometimes the common 13/16 center shot might not apply. IF the shooter is consistent, rest set up might be different than another person.

If they get good hole at various distances starting at 6 ft out to 15 yards, the arrow is flying straight. IMO they can screw on a broadhead and will likely have acceptable grouping with field points.

I like to shoot bare shafts at 20 yards to check tune. Shooting broadheads and field points is good as well. I think they all have their merits and can give feedback on what the shooter needs to adjust.
fasteddie said:
Get some info on here about the bow. The Brute tunes pretty much perfectly by setting centershot and sometimes very very small adjustments. Most of the time I will yoke tune one with half a twist or whole one and its spot on.
What draw length?
What Poundage?
Arrow and Spine?
Arrow Length?
^^^^^^ listen to him .

UT I'm not arguing . I'm just saying if the OP ( who admits to being new to self tuning ) thinks his arrow is pointing way left to get a good tear , the bow is not tuned to the shooter .
 
dogman said:
thanks guys kinda what i fig was just playing with it always ways looking for ways to get the most out of things but in the end i am a hunter not a comp shooter thanks
I missed this , I wasn't implying not to tune your bow . Good arrow flight is very important for any bow . Especially in a hunting bow IMO . My advice would be find someone in your area who can help you a little bit and kind of guide you along . If not post up your specs here and we can start ruling stuff out .
 
lol no worries BH163...I wasn't sure if he was saying after moving the rest his impact was left or if at center shot it is pointing left.

Regardless a good shop is invaluable when it comes to tuning.
 
What I have gathered and I'm as much or more new to tuning as you... First set your rest and knock dead center/ level with the manufacturer's center marks... Then yolk tune to get bullet holes, then walk back tune to get it perfect. Then knock tune each individual arrow to get ideal flight from each individual arrow...Then your broadheads should fly with your FT's, of not you can broadhead tune, or buy diff heads...
 
hey guys sorry ant been on in awhile took the pse to a shop this past week set it to center took a few shoots and the guy noticed my grip was the big problem, after a few good points from him the tears got alot better did end up putting a half twist in the yolk and got it looking pretty good have dif noticed alot better flight while shooting 30+.. thanks for all the comments best of luck to yal this yr
 
I may not as up to date as others here but i have tuned a few bows myself and my opion on paper tuning.

If you dont like the paper tear, back up 5 ft and usually it will change.

Whats the use of paper tuning and then having to move your rest when you walk back tune in tune your broadheads?

Really? If your shots are 30 yards or less and your hitting where your aiming.Penatration will not be an issue with a small shaft arrow and a good fixed blade.
 

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