Food Plots Overgrown pasture

[tree_ghost]

Ok gents the farm I'm purchasing has 3 livestock fields on it that have become quite overgrown. The two smaller ones are much more manageable than the larger one and shouldn't be too difficult to clean up and have animals in them in short order. However my big pasture is approx 10 acres and has turned into a 6' tall impenetrable briar thicket…. My hope for this field is to turn it into a food plot for now. I'm leaning towards burning it in order to utilize the nutrients for the future crop but I haven't done this before and I'm looking for a little input so I don't screw this up lol. I think I'll cut a 20' fire break with my skid steer and then have a 2" trash pump on hand just in case I need water. What else would you all suggest for an operation like this?

 

[Bucket]

Burn in spring/summer to kill hardwoods, their energy is in their roots right now and they would re-sprout easily. Cedars quickly dominate in overgrown fields in that rocky area.

 

[bowhunterfanatic]

Ok gents the farm I'm purchasing has 3 livestock fields on it that have become quite overgrown. The two smaller ones are much more manageable than the larger one and shouldn't be too difficult to clean up and have animals in them in short order. However my big pasture is approx 10 acres and has turned into a 6' tall impenetrable briar thicket…. My hope for this field is to turn it into a food plot for now. I'm leaning towards burning it in order to utilize the nutrients for the future crop but I haven't done this before and I'm looking for a little input so I don't screw this up lol. I think I'll cut a 20' fire break with my skid steer and then have a 2" trash pump on hand just in case I need water. What else would you all suggest for an operation like this?

I have no idea what the area around you looks like, but if cover isn't abundant no way I'd clear the entire pasture. Overgrown fields are by far and away my favorite thing to hunt with a rifle. I know you're a big bowhunter but there is nothing better than an overgrown field during the rut IMO.

 

[tree_ghost]

I have no idea what the area around you looks like, but if cover isn't abundant no way I'd clear the entire pasture. Overgrown fields are by far and away my favorite thing to hunt with a rifle. I know you're a big bowhunter but there is nothing better than an overgrown field during the rut IMO.

I know I hate eliminating any cover but I feel like that's the one thing I have in spades. I'm a ticket hunting fool but this stuff too thick and nasty for a rabbit to use much less for a good buck to sneak a rack through. I'd love to turn it into native grasses and get the best of both worlds….

 

[megalomaniac]

Is it possible to bushhog currently?

My thinking... I'd bushhog the entire thing now, come up with how you would like 3 separate smaller plots laid out on the 10ac field based on unintrusive access and prevailing winds for the hunt, as well as where yiu want your interconnecting paths to be between the plots, then pull soil samples and amend as soon as its dry enough to get the lime buggy in there.

Bushhog a 2nd time in mid July, then spray the areas that will become food plots. Plant the plots end of Aug. Bushhog some strips in the native browse as well as interconnecting paths between plots end of September.

The advantage of this stairstepped approach is you will end up with about half the 10 acres in native browse with about 2 feet of growth and cover that deer feel secure in, yet you can still see them in, another 2 acres of fresh new native browse in the strips and paths, and 3 acres of actual planted food. After next winter you see the deer have eaten the plots to the ground, it will be easy to just expand the size of the plots the following year. Once you get through 2024, you will only need to bushhog everything July 2025 and repeat the process.

The downside is doing this will require you to make multiple trips on the property each year. Not a big deal if you will be living there or the equipment is on site.

 

[tree_ghost]

Is it possible to bushhog currently?

My thinking... I'd bushhog the entire thing now, come up with how you would like 3 separate smaller plots laid out on the 10ac field based on unintrusive access and prevailing winds for the hunt, as well as where yiu want your interconnecting paths to be between the plots, then pull soil samples and amend as soon as its dry enough to get the lime buggy in there.

Bushhog a 2nd time in mid July, then spray the areas that will become food plots. Plant the plots end of Aug. Bushhog some strips in the native browse as well as interconnecting paths between plots end of September.

The advantage of this stairstepped approach is you will end up with about half the 10 acres in native browse with about 2 feet of growth and cover that deer feel secure in, yet you can still see them in, another 2 acres of fresh new native browse in the strips and paths, and 3 acres of actual planted food. After next winter you see the deer have eaten the plots to the ground, it will be easy to just expand the size of the plots the following year. Once you get through 2024, you will only need to bushhog everything July 2025 and repeat the process.

The downside is doing this will require you to make multiple trips on the property each year. Not a big deal if you will be living there or the equipment is on site.

I like this approach Mega! Thanks for the reply Really gives me the best of both worlds with food and cover given this approach…

 

[JCDEERMAN]

Whether it's now or soon, you want to get ahold of it before it gets too big and out of control. I like the stage approach mega mentioned. I would try and get ahold of all the overgrowth before the end of 2025. It grows so fast in that stage that it becomes unmanageable very fast! Thats what we are combating now.

We have about 15 acres we are going to try to burn Mar-may to try and kill as many saplings as we can.

 

[backyardtndeer]

Would definitely bushhog if possible. If you have to burn it cut it into sections and burn it a section at a time, definitely have breaks. Even just a one acre fire can get away from you in a hurry even on a calm day.

And fwiw, deer will graze pasture grass and even bed in it.

 

[megalomaniac]

I like this approach Mega! Thanks for the reply Really gives me the best of both worlds with food and cover given this approach…

And the cover IS food as well, as long as it's young regrowth... and even better, drought resistant food, even if the plots fail.

 

[wildlifefarmer]

Ok gents the farm I'm purchasing has 3 livestock fields on it that have become quite overgrown. The two smaller ones are much more manageable than the larger one and shouldn't be too difficult to clean up and have animals in them in short order. However my big pasture is approx 10 acres and has turned into a 6' tall impenetrable briar thicket…. My hope for this field is to turn it into a food plot for now. I'm leaning towards burning it in order to utilize the nutrients for the future crop but I haven't done this before and I'm looking for a little input so I don't screw this up lol. I think I'll cut a 20' fire break with my skid steer and then have a 2" trash pump on hand just in case I need water. What else would you all suggest for an operation like this?

A lot of help when burning. 4 additional people to watch firebreaks. Humidity of approximately 45% or less. And no more than 10 mph winds. Backing fire ( into wind) is safest. Best thing is to get the Tn Forestry to burn for you.

 

[deerhunter10]

If you've never burnt before I would get with people that have imo. Other then that unless it's major trees in the field you can bush hog it. We personally keep a junky 7 ft bush hog around just for rough stuff. Not only that you would be surprised or we were in how much material is actually needed to keep a fire running across the field at the temperature needed to actually do good. Just our experience with it. Not only that if it is briars and woody type stuff it's hard to burn as they are still surprisingly still green and sappy even in winter. Not trying to rain on your idea just what we have encountered in the past. Another option is mulching it. Or you mentioned you had a skid steer some of the regular mowers will run through a lot of stuff.

 

[Chaneylake]

The heavy duty bush hog can be your hero.
I have cut down trees larger than a baseball with no problem

 

[ttf909]

I applied for the equip program thru nrcs . Iirc that's what it's called and they made up a forestry plan and supposedly are going to have funds available this year for tn forestry to burn my place .
Being novice to using fire no way I'm game for going it alone.

 

[wildlifefarmer]

I applied for the equip program thru nrcs . Iirc that's what it's called and they made up a forestry plan and supposedly are going to have funds available this year for tn forestry to burn my place .
Being novice to using fire no way I'm game for going it alone.

Seeing how you have contacted the NCRS you have a contact. They work with TN Forestry which holds a burn school annually. Go to the school to get the facts about fire. This will be very valuable information to you. We burn 10 to 70 acres annually for habitat. Bigger burns are performed by TNF . Good luck with your project.

 

[tree_ghost]

Seeing how you have contacted the NCRS you have a contact. They work with TN Forestry which holds a burn school annually. Go to the school to get the facts about fire. This will be very valuable information to you. We burn 10 to 70 acres annually for habitat. Bigger burns are performed by TNF . Good luck with your project.

Thank you for that information!! I'll be taking those classes!

 

[JCDEERMAN]

Thank you for that information!! I'll be taking those classes!

I took my class in 2020. I believe it was free. Contact them - my class was in Bell Buckle, TN. 2.5 day class (I think they were 1/2 days) and you're a certified TN prescribed fire burn manager

 

[tree_ghost]

I took my class in 2020. I believe it was free. Contact them - my class was in Bell Buckle, TN. 2.5 day class (I think they were 1/2 days) and you're a certified TN prescribed fire burn manager

When do you guys use fire? Just when it's to big to brush hog?

 

[JCDEERMAN]

When do you guys use fire? Just when it's to big to brush hog?

Not necessarily used fire for your specific situation, but similar - a few areas we have need to be burned and are way overdue - nothing but 8-10 year of woody sapling thickets. They were logged several years before I took my burn class. After they're burned, we will walk through during spring green up and hopefully a lot of it gets zapped. What doesn't will be hack n squirted and/or girdled. The best times to zap saplings are in the fall (but the right conditions are hard to come by at that time), and also spring when they barely start leafing out (that's when our class teacher really said he liked to kill saplings).

As far as timing, feb-may when conditions are right, also aug-Sept. Your spring fires promote native grasses, while your early fall fires promote native forbs.

We spent all day today thinning a 4 acre hillside of hardwoods to allow sunlight to hit the ground. We will burn it in a year or two.

 

[TNTreeman]

Hey buddy, I think I read where you have access or own a skid steer ?? A heavy duty bush hog would work but if you could rent a forestry head to go on your skid steer you could really churn up the ground and create a good planting bed. I'd leave some of that thick stuff and make a good food plot in the middle. You could maybe burn in the early spring the area you churn up. Just a thought if your skid steer is set up to run one.

 

[tree_ghost]

Hey buddy, I think I read where you have access or own a skid steer ?? A heavy duty bush hog would work but if you could rent a forestry head to go on your skid steer you could really churn up the ground and create a good planting bed. I'd leave some of that thick stuff and make a good food plot in the middle. You could maybe burn in the early spring the area you churn up. Just a thought if your skid steer is set up to run one.

I do have access to skid steer. I was going to look into a forestry head but wasn't actually sure if they rented them or not. I thought it might be easier to use with a skid vs a brush hog.

 

[megalomaniac]

I bet it will be hard to rent a mulching head for your skid steer... #1, they are EXPENSIVE. #2, the hourly maintenance that has to be done on them is necessary to make them last.

Not to mention you need one of the bigger skid steers to actually run most of them.

If the bulk of the brush is less than 2 in thick saplings, I'd bush hog with tractor or your skid steer.

The biggest advantage of the mulching head is the roots, brush stumps will be ground down to below dirt level... so you can plant right away, the brush is less likely to resprout, and you don't have to worry about puncturing tractor tires. The mulching head can also easily and quickly handle saplings up to 4 inches in diameter. It can handle larger than that, but becomes significantly slower and more tedious.

 

[tree_ghost]

I bet it will be hard to rent a mulching head for your skid steer... #1, they are EXPENSIVE. #2, the hourly maintenance that has to be done on them is necessary to make them last.

Not to mention you need one of the bigger skid steers to actually run most of them.

If the bulk of the brush is less than 2 in thick saplings, I'd bush hog with tractor or your skid steer.

The biggest advantage of the mulching head is the roots, brush stumps will be ground down to below dirt level... so you can plant right away, the brush is less likely to resprout, and you don't have to worry about puncturing tractor tires. The mulching head can also easily and quickly handle saplings up to 4 inches in diameter. It can handle larger than that, but becomes significantly slower and more tedious.

Yeah there's nothing bigger than 2" in that field

 

[deerhunter10]

Yeah there's nothing bigger than 2" in that field

Bush hog it. 2 inches isn't much.

 

[Swampster]

Whether it's now or soon, you want to get ahold of it before it gets too big and out of control. I like the stage approach mega mentioned. I would try and get ahold of all the overgrowth before the end of 2025. It grows so fast in that stage that it becomes unmanageable very fast! Thats what we are combating now.

We have about 15 acres we are going to try to burn Mar-may to try and kill as many saplings as we can.

Really fast. I spent days cutting and clearing trees that got away from me in the NWSG section of my CRP (riparian buffer). It was probably only an acre. I had left some sections alone because there were such good blackberries there and BAM! There are birches, sycamores, box elder, and gum trees that are four to six inches in diameter.

 

[Ski]

Congrats on the new acreage!!!:D

 

[JCDEERMAN]

Really fast. I spent days cutting and clearing trees that got away from me in the NWSG section of my CRP (riparian buffer). It was probably only an acre. I had left some sections alone because there were such good blackberries there and BAM! There are birches, sycamores, box elder, and gum trees that are four to six inches in diameter.

Fast for sure. Moving our burning of these areas to early fall for better effectiveness.

For what it's worth @tree_ghost, literally, it seems like one year with no management intervention, it can get out of control - I've seen areas where I've said "I'll take care of that next year", then 2 years later when I've gotten around to it, I've wondered how in the heyal it's gotten out of control

 

[7mmWSM]

If you're going to burn and want good results you need to do it before the green up starts. While everything's dormant you'll get a complete burn. After it starts greening up or into full green up success will go way down as far as a complete burn goes.

 

[tree_ghost]

If you're going to burn and want good results you need to do it before the green up starts. While everything's dormant you'll get a complete burn. After it starts greening up or into full green up success will go way down as far as a complete burn goes.

Yeah I think given my timing of closing on the farm and the amount of area to improve I think I'm going to go the brush hog route this year and reasses potential burning next winter.

 

[7mmWSM]

Yeah I think given my timing of closing on the farm and the amount of area to improve I think I'm going to go the brush hog route this year and reasses potential burning next winter.

Nothing wrong with that. We burned an area almost every year. But did more bushogging than anything. You'll be fine whatever you decide to do. Both are good options.

 

[Volbuck777]

Not sure what you're looking at but 10 acres of where a rabbit couldn't go sounds like a big buck haven. We had a spot like that in Kentucky and bucks would come through it and just appear. It was like that for 2 years. We had an awesome spot. Then someone decided to make the deer another food plot. Sightings went down tremendously and we went from killing 3 over 130 and a 165 to not even seeing any over 130. Needless to say the landowner loved what we did. He wanted us to keep it mowed. Now none of us hunt it. We were our own worst enemy. Food for thought. Deer don't need plots near as bad as we want them. Deer need cover. I know you know this, I just really push it. My last 5 wall hangers have come from exactly what you're talking about. Good luck in whatever you do. By the way congratulations again on the farm.