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Ok educate me on spud poles

RUGER

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Gonna be placing a floater. I have never done this.
Probably going with 3" X 20' schedule 40.
Water will be about 10' deep but not totally sure.
I'm guessing get it through the sleeves on the front corners and then climb on top of the blind and beat it in with a sledgehammer?
How deep would you drive it ?
How in the world do you remove them after the season?
Doing it without water is not an option.
 
Any chance of bolting the sleeves onto the blind where it could be unbolted at the season end? Then come back with a sawsaw and retrieve the rest of the spud after the water is gone (if it couldn't be jacked out)?
 
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Make mounting brackets removable to disconnect if you need to move blind. I've seen a blind on Tn River with a boat trailer style winch mounted to blind to pull loose spud poles but don't really know if it worked well.
 
We always used farm jacks to pull poles but it was always in much shallower water.
 
Any chance of bolting the sleeves onto the blind where it could be unbolted at the season end? Then come back with a sawsaw and retrieve the rest of the spud after the water is gone (if it couldn't be jacked out)?
Yes man will cut 6" pipe in half and weld brackets on then we will lag bolt to the blind.
 
Would rigging something like this work? The slide hammer will drive and remove the rod. We use these when we setup a FARP and need to ground the helicopters when they come in to refuel.
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They make a portable unit so it can be transported easily. I would think you would want stiffer poles though but they do make sleeves for schedule 40.
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Gonna be placing a floater. I have never done this.
Probably going with 3" X 20' schedule 40.
Water will be about 10' deep but not totally sure.
I'm guessing get it through the sleeves on the front corners and then climb on top of the blind and beat it in with a sledgehammer?
How deep would you drive it ?
How in the world do you remove them after the season?
Doing it without water is not an option.
We have taken spud poles and welded caps on them drilled and threaded valve stems on them and used air to remove them at the end of the season. Now granted it was in a mud flat on tbe river but it worked well.
 
We use perforated sign posts for spud poles. Before the hunt, we stick a clevis pin in the 1st hole below the sleeve bracket to stabilize the blind, cuts down on the blind bobbing around. At the end of the season, we place the clevis pin in the 1st hole above the sleeve bracket and get all the guys to go to the opposite end of the blind using the blind as a lever to lift the spud poles out of the mud. It takes a little seesawing back and forth to get them all clear but it works. We don't pound the poles in the mud but use the weight of all those hunting to push to poles down into the mud (clevis pins need to be in the 1st hole below the sleeve bracket for this to work).
 
We use a chain hoist to pull the poles down into the mud when we place the blind, and when we remove the poles, wrap the chain around the pole a couple of times under the collars we use to hold them, and push it down as far as we can with a boat paddle, and then pull them up, lock in place with a large crescent wrench(positioned above the bottom collar and basically lodged against it), and repeat as necessary until we have the pole up far enough. But this is a blind we leave on the river year round, just when we have to move it to shallower water to do some sort of maintenance we need dry land to do the work.

We have two sets of collars on either end of the blind to hold the poles in place, and make sure the poles are long enough to handle summer pool on Ky Lake, plus enough to account for flood stage.

And we use one pole on either end of the blind, positioned midway on either end, so we have 2 poles to do this with.
 

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