Light Rust in Bore!!

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UTGrad

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Dec 1, 2007
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Cookeville, TN
Shot my muzzleloader last week with BH209. Ran a couple dry patches down bore to get main fouling out and took it home and put it in the case. Thought I would get it out to check the bore and I saw light rust. Ran some patches through with Hoppes and a couple passes with a brush. Put some oil in the bore.

I'm really not going to be able to shoot it till this weekend. Will light rust that has been removed affect bullet flight in y'alls experience?

This is a generation 1 CVA Accura with a blued barrel.


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J_W":151zwmgw said:
Clean it and relax.

Guess you learned that a couple of dry patches doesn't really do much to clean?

Yep I already knew that but bought into the hype that BH209 was not going to cause the bore to rust. I've used BH209 since 2009 and never had a problem with rust but I always cleaned the bore well after shooting. I guess this test of shooting it twice and using a couple of dry patches will not protect the bore from possible rust even with BH209!
 
My guess would be not at all but if you are worried about it, I might try cleaning it the old fashioned way...this is how Knight recommended cleaning their ML's years ago.

Bring a big pot of water to a boil and then scoop out small batches in a smaller pot for each step. First, run a few patches through it with scalding hot water that you've added a decent shot of Dawn dishwashing soap. If your patches are coming out funky, toss the dirty water, get more hot water and dawn and keep going until you think its clean.

When you think its good and clean do the same thing with just clean scalding hot water to rinse out any residual soap...maybe 2-3 pans of clean water.

Once you feel its clean run a few dry patches through to dry the bore.... although you probably won't need to because the barrel will be so hot it will flash dry almost by itself....then finally run a patch coated lightly with oil.

If you have never done it this way, be careful because the barrel will get almost too hot to handle so I'd wear gloves.

My bet is that the heat will help break the surface tension between the rust and the barrel and once your finished you'll never have to worry about it again.
 
No a little light rust won't hurt anything, I've actually seen some guns tighten up with some rust due to tighter bores.

Get some fritz or JB and go to work on it. About a 100 strokes and clean and inspect. If not satisfied another 100. Rinse and repeat until desired results are achieved,

For really pitted bores you might have to get some lapping compound. Go easy . A little bit goes a long way, you want some super fine.


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I bought a .54 cal MK85 with a heavily rusted bore off a ole boy a couple,of years back. He left it sitting up all year. It had a laminate stock. He hauled it all over the show and no one would make him a offer on it, I offered him $50 for it and he snatched it from me like he was insulted and whined like a stuffed pig, about a hour later he came back around with it and said would I give him $60 I said yeah since the stock and outside blurring was perfect and he had the factory bases and rings to go with it,

Cleaned it up with the above procedure, it has some very minor pitting but it shoots 2 inch groups all day at 100 yards. It's will be my western gun if I ever go out west,


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BH209 isn't a rust inhibitor, but will allow for more time for the shooter to clean without rust forming. Still need to clean'em boys!
 
david k.":14ivyib3 said:
My guess would be not at all but if you are worried about it, I might try cleaning it the old fashioned way...this is how Knight recommended cleaning their ML's years ago.

Bring a big pot of water to a boil and then scoop out small batches in a smaller pot for each step. First, run a few patches through it with scalding hot water that you've added a decent shot of Dawn dishwashing soap. If your patches are coming out funky, toss the dirty water, get more hot water and dawn and keep going until you think its clean.

When you think its good and clean do the same thing with just clean scalding hot water to rinse out any residual soap...maybe 2-3 pans of clean water.

Once you feel its clean run a few dry patches through to dry the bore.... although you probably won't need to because the barrel will be so hot it will flash dry almost by itself....then finally run a patch coated lightly with oil.

If you have never done it this way, be careful because the barrel will get almost too hot to handle so I'd wear gloves.

My bet is that the heat will help break the surface tension between the rust and the barrel and once your finished you'll never have to worry about it again.

Gotta respectfully disagree with this advice. Blackhorn isn't water soluble (and do you really want to shoot something that is?!) and requires normal cleaning solvents to break it down and remove it.

If you truly have light surface rust them normal cleaning should remove it.
 
Sure that rust wasn't in the barrel to begin with? That might sound crazy but I'm pretty sure it's the case with my brand new CVA Wolf. I'm finally gonna get to shoot it today so didn't clean the barrel to remove the shipping grease until just yesterday. Patches sure looked like they had some rust on them to me.


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TboneD":4pjbk108 said:
Sure that rust wasn't in the barrel to begin with? That might sound crazy but I'm pretty sure it's the case with my brand new CVA Wolf. I'm finally gonna get to shoot it today so didn't clean the barrel to remove the shipping grease until just yesterday. Patches sure looked like they had some rust on them to me.


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Have you ever seen a patch after cleaning out cosmoline from an old surplus rifle. The color kinda reminds you of rust too.
 
J_W":jpobpn8u said:
david k.":jpobpn8u said:
My guess would be not at all but if you are worried about it, I might try cleaning it the old fashioned way...this is how Knight recommended cleaning their ML's years ago.

Bring a big pot of water to a boil and then scoop out small batches in a smaller pot for each step. First, run a few patches through it with scalding hot water that you've added a decent shot of Dawn dishwashing soap. If your patches are coming out funky, toss the dirty water, get more hot water and dawn and keep going until you think its clean.

When you think its good and clean do the same thing with just clean scalding hot water to rinse out any residual soap...maybe 2-3 pans of clean water.

Once you feel its clean run a few dry patches through to dry the bore.... although you probably won't need to because the barrel will be so hot it will flash dry almost by itself....then finally run a patch coated lightly with oil.

If you have never done it this way, be careful because the barrel will get almost too hot to handle so I'd wear gloves.

My bet is that the heat will help break the surface tension between the rust and the barrel and once your finished you'll never have to worry about it again.

Gotta respectfully disagree with this advice. Blackhorn isn't water soluble (and do you really want to shoot something that is?!) and requires normal cleaning solvents to break it down and remove it.

If you truly have light surface rust them normal cleaning should remove it.

Soap and water is one of the worst for cleaning Blackhorn209 but there are some water based or water soluble solvents that will work.

Ballistol
M7Pro
Hoppes Elite

In a pinch household products like denatured alcohol, carb/FI and dechlorinated brake cleaners, 91% isopropyl or even EverClear will remove most of the fouling. Care must be taken using them because some are not friendly to your stocks. Removing the barrel is your best way to avoid an issue when using these.

Medical grade mineral oil (baby oil) can be used afterwards. The main ingredient in Ballistol and Montana Xtreme products is light medical grade mineral oil.
 
What kind of case did you put it in? I would think putting it in a case had more to do with rust than BH209. This is especially true if it is one of the plastic cases with foam padding.
 
vonb":2f784dgk said:
What kind of case did you put it in? I would think putting it in a case had more to do with rust than BH209. This is especially true if it is one of the plastic cases with foam padding.

A gun case/safe...not a carry case.
 
A little light rust should not pose too much of a problem but light rust when it gets a foot hold can lead to pitting. It looks like you caught it in time. Remember, Tennessee's humidity usually runs a tad high making rust formation on unprotected steel likely. This is why I always, after each use, give the gun at least a light cleaning and oiling.
 
GMB54":2au4rev5 said:
TboneD":2au4rev5 said:
Sure that rust wasn't in the barrel to begin with? That might sound crazy but I'm pretty sure it's the case with my brand new CVA Wolf. I'm finally gonna get to shoot it today so didn't clean the barrel to remove the shipping grease until just yesterday. Patches sure looked like they had some rust on them to me.


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Have you ever seen a patch after cleaning out cosmoline from an old surplus rifle. The color kinda reminds you of rust too.

No, I haven't, but the shipping grease was black. The patches kept on looking brown and rusty after that. Oh well. I might call CVA about it but I finally shot it today and it's a tack driver.


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Well I cleaned it after shooting and got no more brown rusty looking patches, so I'm puzzled. Maybe there was a second substance in the bore besides the barrel, but whether it was rust or not, it patches clean now. Think I'm really gonna like this little CVA Wolf.
 
Blackhorn is not corrosive, but it will draw moisture. I believe they even state that on the bottle. Light surface rust won't hurt anything. What you want to avoid is pitting because pitting holds fouling.
 
jetwrnch":1uwb7g1k said:
Blackhorn is not corrosive, but it will draw moisture. I believe they even state that on the bottle....

One post above your's. And not only will moisture cause rust, the breechplug needs a lot of attention in order to prevent pops without the smoke.




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While I was trying to get BH to work in my CVA Kod Mag, I did notice that the mag primers were VERY corrosive in the BP and the blowby was pretty rough on the firing pin block assy too.
 
MUP":npio72ws said:
While I was trying to get BH to work in my CVA Kod Mag, I did notice that the mag primers were VERY corrosive in the BP and the blowby was pretty rough on the firing pin block assy too.

Yes. Thankfully, it's easy to pull the firing pin on the break action CVA's, and is included in the manual with the regular cleaning process.


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GMB54":11u6p4ui said:
Kodiak Mag is not a break action CVA. Its similar to a T/C Omega.

I wasn't referring to his Kodiak. I was referring to the big selling newer CVA's like my Wolf and Optimas. Lots of folks are buying them and for good reason.


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TboneD":2yb04zkp said:
Sure that rust wasn't in the barrel to begin with? That might sound crazy but I'm pretty sure it's the case with my brand new CVA Wolf. I'm finally gonna get to shoot it today so didn't clean the barrel to remove the shipping grease until just yesterday. Patches sure looked like they had some rust on them to me.


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No I've owned this gun for 7 years and fired and cleaned multiple times. It was rust.
 
UTGrad":2s9b76j0 said:
TboneD":2s9b76j0 said:
Sure that rust wasn't in the barrel to begin with? That might sound crazy but I'm pretty sure it's the case with my brand new CVA Wolf. I'm finally gonna get to shoot it today so didn't clean the barrel to remove the shipping grease until just yesterday. Patches sure looked like they had some rust on them to me.


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No I've owned this gun for 7 years and fired and cleaned multiple times. It was rust.

Gotcha. For some reason I was under the impression you'd bought a new one.


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TboneD":1pm2cedy said:
GMB54":1pm2cedy said:
Kodiak Mag is not a break action CVA. Its similar to a T/C Omega.

I wasn't referring to his Kodiak. I was referring to the big selling newer CVA's like my Wolf and Optimas. Lots of folks are buying them and for good reason.


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Easy fix.

One way,
http://www.mcmaster.com/#9262k611/=zpbs5b

Or the harder but semi-permanent way.
part 1
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W0FdSNiDNa0

part 2
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kbWvn_EfxOo
 
This is just me, but if I had rust in
the barrel the last thing I would want
to do is put water in the barrel.
 
if you have rust in the barrel, its most likely not the water causing it but the product you are using to prevent rust from forming. I clean all my muzzies with water and guess how many rusted bores i have? None.
 
Like I said it's just me. I will stay
with the hoppes. The barrel on
my impact is like a mirror and
I want it to stay that way.
 

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